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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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Default Question On Winter Storage

ive heard if i dont start my engine throughout winter valves are known to stick. i was gonna change oil and remove battery for around 5 months till spring. is this true? i always thought if you keep starting a cold engine it will do more damage than good since most engine damage is done starting up. what do you do and did you have any problems?
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nutsy
ive heard if i dont start my engine throughout winter valves are known to stick. i was gonna change oil and remove battery for around 5 months till spring. is this true? i always thought if you keep starting a cold engine it will do more damage than good since most engine damage is done starting up. what do you do and did you have any problems?
Sounds like you have it right.If you are storing in a moisture prone area.You can crumple up newspaper and toss it inside the car and under the hood.The newspaper will absorb moisture and release it slowly which will help your chrome survive the winter.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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another winter storage question, should i store the car on jackstands, take the weight off the springs? esp now that i have a composite rear spring.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:03 PM
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Default My opinion...

I would agree with what you said in the original post. The reason is that when you start the car and let it idle without driving it around, the engine temps aren't enough to sufficiently clear out the condensation in the motor.

For me, I take the battery out and store it inside with a battery tender (to avoid temps changing back and forth) on a wooden shelf. I also pour some fuel saver in the tank to avoid the fuel breaking down. I store my car on jack stands, just off the ground to avoid flat spots in the tires and dry rot. Lastly, I cover the car with the windows cracked and leave it at that.

Before the firestorm starts, let me say, I'm sure others will disagree on certain things...everyone has their opinion and their own way of doing things. This is just the way I do things. In MI, there are 4 or 5 months that the car simply can't be driven (unless I want to salt wash the frame).

Good luck!
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:47 PM
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Storing inside or outside?

My preference is indoor storage with battery left installed and a battery tender on constantly, (new ones are safe - extremely low settings with overcharge protection built in).

Weight on the springs causes no problems. ****? Periodically roll vehicle a foot for or aft to prevent wheel bearing flatspotting.

Soft breathable cover, a flannel blanket is perfect!

Major concern is rodents!! Mice really put a damper on the spring clean-up. I use plug-in rodent blasters (supposedly emits a frequency from units which are not mice friendly!!), mice traps on the floor (not inside the vehicle), laundry fabric softener sheets (bounce) and whatever new mice killing products have been released on the market!!
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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Mine sat for 10+ years before I bought it and the valves didn't stick. The only problem I had from it sitting so long was that the plug wires had gotten brittle. I think they were the original ones.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 06:48 AM
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mine is stored in a heated garage. no mice problem either. if i put on jack stands where is best place to put them? i assume under frame where owners manual tells you where to jack up. is this correct?
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by nutsy
mine is stored in a heated garage. no mice problem either. if i put on jack stands where is best place to put them? i assume under frame where owners manual tells you where to jack up. is this correct?
Depends on what your trying to accomplish.If you put the stands at the jacking locations the ends of the car are "hanging" in a very unnatural state but that will save the springs and tires.Probably stress the body a little bit though.
I would prefere the stands under the front A-arms just under the shocks-this will take some load off springs,all load off tires and still support front of body as though tires were on the ground.
In the rear I prefere the stands under the strut rods at the shock mounts.Again unloads the spring some,all load off tires and the body is supported as if the tires were still on the ground.Putting the stands in the rear under the shock mounts is a little touchy but not too bad.I can explain if you decide to do it that way.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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I've stored mine in a sealed bag for 15+ years now. I have a cylinder of crystals you heat to remove the moisture and toss inside the bag.
It has enough room the put a motorcycle in with it.
JU



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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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I would be a little leery of some of the plastic bag solutions after reading this:
http://www.guildclassiccars.com/plac...store_cars.htm
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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Here is a very simple trick that I use. I don't know if you really need it for just over one winter storage.

When an engine is found "frozen" after sitting for long durations, it is always just one or two cylinders that are rusty and causes the engine to be locked up. What is happening is this. On a V8 engine, there will always be one cylinder that will have both intake and exhaust valves open. Air can exchange up the exhaust pipes and through the carburator (or vise versa). This will dry out that one cylinder and moisture in the air can cause rust.

I always tape the ends of my exhaust pipes and the inlets to the air cleaner shut. Its quick, easy, and gives just a little added protection.

Jim
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:20 AM
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You can one at a time, pull out a plug, spray some fogging oil in there, then replace the plug/wire. That should keep the cylinders from rusting. I do it every year to my boat for winter storage. You should be able to get fogging oil from your local parts store...I know even Menards carries it around here now. If worse comes to worse, you can get it from a marina. Its around $6 a can and is located next to the other spray cans (carb cleaner, etc].
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Default Winter storage

I have stored my car in the winter over ten years.I start my car up once a month on a nice day no rain and I drive it up and down my drive way.I let it run till the temp is at 180.I live on Vancouver island Canada where it is not that cold but lots of rain so it is damp all winter.I have never had any problems with my car by doing this.So thats what works for me.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:49 AM
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I think for winter storage where you store your car is probably more important then what you do to it. I went the extra mile on my garage. I insulated the walls, ceiling and the garage door. I laid down a heavy gauge plastic liner over the floor which acts as a moisture barrier. I then installed on top of that an interlocking garage tile floor and then put in a natural gas fired heater. In the winter it's dry and warm, in the summer it's dry and cool. I can't say enough about what a difference insulation can make in preventing rust and moisture buildup in your vehicle, summer and winter.

As far as the car itself is concerned I just fill the tank with fresh gas, change the oil/filter, put on the battery tender, cover with a flannel car cover and wait for spring.






Last edited by gq82; Nov 6, 2007 at 12:34 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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I live in Jersey almost the same weather as you. The biggest and most damaging thing is mice Those little F@%kers can do some damage!!! Moth ***** and plug in repellers work. DO NOT use poison!!! The little bastards crawl into the condenser and die!!! Your wife will never drive in the car again after that smell Ask me how I know The only other things I do is oil change,stable,check the air pressure every month and run it hard before I store it. If your parking it in a damp area use the gold rod if possible.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by gq82
I think for winter storage where you store your car is probably more important then what you do it. I went the extra mile on my garage. I insulated the walls, ceiling and the garage door. I laid down a heavy gauge plastic liner over the floor which acts as a moisture barrier. I then installed on top of that an interlocking garage tile floor and then put in a natural gas fired heater. In the winter it's dry and warm, in the summer it's dry and cool. I can't say enough about what a difference insulation can make in preventing rust and moisture buildup in your vehicle.

As far as the car itself is concerned I just fill the tank with fresh gas, change the oil/filter, put on the battery tender, cover with a flannel car cover and wait for spring.





Thats nicer than my apartment CAN I MOVE IN? I'll WATCH THE CAR
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenoir
I would be a little leery of some of the plastic bag solutions after reading this:
http://www.guildclassiccars.com/plac...store_cars.htm
Great read.
Mines in "cold" storage with no fan. I got this to keep the mice out of it.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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I do not put it on jackstands as it will be hard on the bushings IMHO. The fiberglass rear spring certainly will not droop from sitting.

Change the oil right before storage and do not start it unless it is time to come out of storage. I do not see any reason to periodicaly start it up. More harm than good IMHO.

Use some Irish Spring soap shavings on a plate inside the interior to keep the mice away. They hate the stuff.

Keep the battery installed and charged especialy if you want to protect the factory clock. If yours does not work or has been replaced with a quartz conversion then it isn't that big of a deal but still keep the battery charged one way or the other.

The thick covers give you a little more protection from "non-enthusiasts". This is important for the sake of your car and family.

Hope this helps,

-Mark.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 11:24 AM
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I just put away my C4 and my fishing van last night. For more years than I can remember I just disconnect the battery, put in a few sheets of febreeze and walk away until next April. I have never drained the gas or propped the tires. I don't even pull the batteries (optimas). I put car covers on the corvettes.

The C3 gets to stay in the home garage ......just in case I get the urge to fix something.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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I fill the tank, & change the oil. I keep it covered under a breathable car cover. I start it every week or two when the weather is bad and let run untill 180 degrees. If there's snow, I shovel out enough area to pull the vette out of the garage so I can roll the tires. This keeps everything lubed, moisture dried out of the engine & exhaust. I drive it through the winter as long as it's dry and no salt is on the roads. I haven't had a rodent problem, but after reading all these mice problem threads, I'll do the Irish Spring soap, Febreeze thing.
Had no problems in the spring.
Glenn
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