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How hard is it do? Do I pop off the dust cap, remove nut, and pull out bearing, add grease, and reverse steps for install? I'd like to do it this weekend as I get some serious squelage from the front wheels and I know it's not the brakes. Any tips or advice would be great. thanks!
Thats pretty much the steps you go thru, not hard at all. However, if you got squeelage the bearings are done and you should replace them. Thats a little more involved, but still not that hard. Once you have it disassembled and cleaned, you knock the bearing races out with a brass drift and hammer, put them back in and your good to go. I did a paper on this a while back. PM me if you want it and I'll send when I get home.
awesome, thanks! it makes alot less noise when it's warm outside so I'll be doing it this weekend. Just hope it dosn't lock up on me between now and then . Can I get the bearings at any parts store?
Have you ever re-packed A bearing Or pounded out A Race. Its Easy.
Try to get someone to help you out that has done it before. The Calipers have to come off no problem .take off the dust cap pull the cotter pin back off bolt . Wipe all the old grease off the bearings buy rolling it on A clean rag. Inspect the roller face make sure its smooth. you dont want cottage cheez looking rollers if it looks anything other than shiney Re-place the race and the bearing. If you cant pop out the race A napa or the like should be able to help you out. after re packing Front and back. the back is A little harder to get out but a good claw hammer is what i use. Get two new rear grease seals .You should not even have to bleed the brakes this way. My truck was squealing really bad and I turned the rotors and got new brake shoes and the noise stopped the brakes were not in to the squealers yet. the Autozone dude said they seemed to be Over heated. well yea I drive it like I stole it.Good swappin to ya.hope this helps
I used a small punch and hammer and slowly knocked the bearings out.
Have you ever packed a bearing?
If not, all you do is put a glob of wheel bearing grease in your hand and keep pressing the bearing into the glob until the grease oozes through the gaps between the bearings...and keep working it around until grease is coming through all the gaps.
Using a small block of wood to lay across the bearing and seal when driving back in is helpful, so it goes back in evenly. If it's your first time, you may want to grab an extra seal in case you mangle the first one up trying to get it in.
Just take your time and use easy hits when driving bearings/seals in and out.
If you have a dial indicator, use it to set the bearing end play once you have the new bearings packed and installed. You can do it by feel, feeling for the very slightest bit of end play pushing the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. However, I prefer to use a dial indicator for an exact setting. The thread count on the spindle is 24/inch with installation every 1/12 turn due to there being(six flats and two perpendicular cotter pin holes). With that thread count, each 1/12 of a turn changes the bearing end play by about .004". For a "blueprinted" installation, shoot for .0015"-.002" of end play. You can dress a few thou off of your washer using some 240 wet/dry and mineral spirits on a flat surface to obtain the desired end play with the new bearings.
awesome, thanks! it makes alot less noise when it's warm outside so I'll be doing it this weekend. Just hope it dosn't lock up on me between now and then . Can I get the bearings at any parts store?
I wouldn't drive it that way untill you replace all the front bearings. They go and you'll end up doing spindle damage and suddenly you have a very expensive repair bill.
Just my 2c.
Glenn
just wanted to say thanks for the write up sixfooter and the link and the info guys. i pulled the outer bearings and greased them up. they looked good, totally smooth, and that did help with the noise. I'm going to get everything together and do the whole thing in the next week or two.