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Here's a test I used to do. I would Dynamat a panel, then pound it with the bottom of my fist. If you can still hear a reverberation, add another layer. If it's dampened pretty good, move on to the next panel.
The whole point is vibration dampening, unless you're shooting for heat too, and then it comes down to a combination of materials.
You don't have to cover ever pinhole of panel, if you have some gaps or spot holes you're okay...just cover what you can.
Well, I did the doors. Took about 3-1/2 hours or so. So many uneven surfaces and protrusions and screw holes to not cover up.
Also put some under the front dash speakers.
Much better.
Even think I am going to attack the trunk area next Friday (wife has to work). It should be alot easier, as it seems the surfaces are bigger and flatter and not so many screw holes to work around.
Then front floor area weekend after.
Does anyone recommend I put down a heat liner also, or does the aluminum lining serve this purpose.
I used the roller to roll down as much as I could get it to. Some areas just don't allow a roller. But, Dynamat site says you don't need the heat, so did not so any of that.
BTW, there are alot of curved areas in the trunk area also and it took about 4 or more hours as you remove the carpet, the storage bin trim, the rear speakers, etc.
Does anyone recommend lining the battery compartment. Lined the storage compartment, but ran out of Dynamat for the battery compartment. Have to buy more for the driver and passenger area, so want to make sure I get enough.
Hopefully the driver/passenger area will not be as hard as the trunk. SOO hard to compress and twist my body to get to all the areas.
Used a full 36 sq. ft. on the doors and trunk and down behind the seats and the storage compartment. Just bought another 36 sq. ft. for the passenger and driver area. Will cover every area I can get to. Not going to tank the console off, just work under it as best as I can. Any leftovers will be used on the battery area and then the T-bar and rear overhead thing and lastly the windshield trim area. Those last areas will be casual weekend work, as this can get tiring when you have to put it back together so you can drive it.
Did the battery compartment today. Took about 2/3 of a sheet, which about 2.7 sq ft if the 36 sq ft I have to do the driver and passenger compartments. About 1 hour to get the battery out, line, and replace - those batteries are heavy and without the handle thing on them, hard to maneuver.
Result so far (doors, trunk, including storage and battery compartments) is great. Can hear treble now! Have not included this item yet, but have Borla's and they are great, but can be loud inside. Trunk acts like an echo chamber without Dynamat. (Did I say I got the Borla's for $50 both from someone who wanted to get rid of them after about 1,000 miles )
Finally finished. Took 72 sq ft all together. That's alot, but I put double layers on the firewall and foot wells. About 4 hours for both doors, another 4 hours for trunk and 7 hours for passenger/driver compartments. Hardest part is taking the carpet out and the seats. And, getting it all back together. Wish I had thought about new carpet, as it could use it, even though replaced it about 9 years (150K miles) ago.
Doors not sound right when closing. Still hear the borla's but the sound is a "controlled" sound. Hear rear speakers fine now (no special speaker system). Nice solid sound to cabin for first time.
Have turned down the radio! and better clarity.
Though its about $500 out of pocket and sweat equity, nice addition.
1 thing i have to do is put that wind barrier that goes in the trans tunnel above the trans...i guess it helps the hot air form getting into the tunnel....i'm still gonna make some heat shields for the pipes and the mufflers..... maybe next spring