looking for opinions
CF JASOC Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,040
Likes: 34
From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
OK, I know I'm asking a lot... but that's why I brought this question up. In my price range I can get a nice LT1 in it's original skin that has been mostly pampered. But the engine is not original. My logic was that it might be more unusual and in my mind seemed more desirable to be a well kept chassis. Clearly I am not in sync with the crowd on this one.... so I need to re-think a few things.
Without the original engine, doesn't it cease being an LT1 and just become a raised hood with stickers on it?
That's why it's in your price range. Not trying to be an a**hole. Just playing devil's advocate.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 3,333
From: Omaha NE
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
It is possible to still have nice original paint on a C3. Mine has 71k......
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 793
Likes: 11
From: Grafton MA
In your price range I think you will find an LT-1, although you're going to have to make some sacrifices and it's going to take some time because there aren't as many out there. I bought mine a little over a year ago in your price range so it is possible.
First off I hope you like coupe because that's probably what you'll get in that price range. I wanted a coupe so for me the fact that they were cheaper worked to my advantage. You could probably also get a NOM with good paint, or a #matching car with wrong color and/or bad paint. With the LT-1 I think the original drivetrain is more important than the paint. A car with the wrong paint or bad paint can always be repainted but a car only has its original engine once. In my case I ended up with a #matching mechanically sound LT-1 that needed some things like removal of some rusty hooker side-pipes, new exhaust system and eventually it's going to need paint. For me this was a good compromise because I could afford to do the exhaust immediately and the paint was good enough driver quality that I could live with it for some years and enjoy the car knowing i'll redo it some day. I'm happy with it because I drive it and don't have to worry about every little ding or scratch, the car still looks sharp and it's an LT-1 which was a plus for me. I also have cousins that own a body shop so I know when i do paint it (while it will still be expensive) i will get a really good deal.
The other thing that will affect price is LT-1 with docs vs. no docs. I know some might disagree with this and say an LT-1 without original docs you should assume is a regular small block (since there are fakes out there). But my personal opinion is that the key is doing your homework and get someone who really knows LT-1's to check out the car for you (like a local NCRS guy). Especially where even docs can be faked these days the best way to verify is have an expert look at it. What I'm trying to say is that an LT-1 that is real with docs will go for more than an LT-1 that is real without docs. So that is another way to get the car into your price range. Again, especially without the docs key is not to buy a fake and the best way i think to do that is by doing your homework. There are a lot of distinguishing characteristics (that i know you are aware of) and while anything could be faked, the cost of doing so would probably be more than the value gain by faking the LT-1.
As bullshark said life is too short and get the car that you want. If an LT-1 is definitely what you want then either spend the extra money or figure out what compromises you can live with (like poor paint,etc). For me that was a car that I can drive NOW and enjoy that still looks sharp and is an LT-1, but I know i will need to put some money in some day. You may be the type of person that won't be happy if you buy something else and you'll always wish you had the LT-1. On the other hand it may not be that important to you and maybe re-think getting an LT-1 since for the money you are looking to spend you can probably get a close to mint small block coupe.
First off I hope you like coupe because that's probably what you'll get in that price range. I wanted a coupe so for me the fact that they were cheaper worked to my advantage. You could probably also get a NOM with good paint, or a #matching car with wrong color and/or bad paint. With the LT-1 I think the original drivetrain is more important than the paint. A car with the wrong paint or bad paint can always be repainted but a car only has its original engine once. In my case I ended up with a #matching mechanically sound LT-1 that needed some things like removal of some rusty hooker side-pipes, new exhaust system and eventually it's going to need paint. For me this was a good compromise because I could afford to do the exhaust immediately and the paint was good enough driver quality that I could live with it for some years and enjoy the car knowing i'll redo it some day. I'm happy with it because I drive it and don't have to worry about every little ding or scratch, the car still looks sharp and it's an LT-1 which was a plus for me. I also have cousins that own a body shop so I know when i do paint it (while it will still be expensive) i will get a really good deal.
The other thing that will affect price is LT-1 with docs vs. no docs. I know some might disagree with this and say an LT-1 without original docs you should assume is a regular small block (since there are fakes out there). But my personal opinion is that the key is doing your homework and get someone who really knows LT-1's to check out the car for you (like a local NCRS guy). Especially where even docs can be faked these days the best way to verify is have an expert look at it. What I'm trying to say is that an LT-1 that is real with docs will go for more than an LT-1 that is real without docs. So that is another way to get the car into your price range. Again, especially without the docs key is not to buy a fake and the best way i think to do that is by doing your homework. There are a lot of distinguishing characteristics (that i know you are aware of) and while anything could be faked, the cost of doing so would probably be more than the value gain by faking the LT-1.
As bullshark said life is too short and get the car that you want. If an LT-1 is definitely what you want then either spend the extra money or figure out what compromises you can live with (like poor paint,etc). For me that was a car that I can drive NOW and enjoy that still looks sharp and is an LT-1, but I know i will need to put some money in some day. You may be the type of person that won't be happy if you buy something else and you'll always wish you had the LT-1. On the other hand it may not be that important to you and maybe re-think getting an LT-1 since for the money you are looking to spend you can probably get a close to mint small block coupe.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
Greg, I am a little confused. I have been following some of you posts and the following questions come to mind. Are you looking for a Vette for you? i.e. what you desire and think is or what you perceive someone else thinks is . Are you buying a Vette to make big money on it when you decide to sell? Don't take this wrong, but it sounds to me like you may be trying to satisfy to many criteria and have set some pretty hard priorities that will be next to impossible to achieve.....at least within your price boggy. Meanwhile, if this is really for you, you may be missing out on some real valuable fun time with the hobby. I am not suggesting that you settle for something far less than what you want, but you can buy one close, have fun with it and trade up if something better surfaces. Life is short and Gas prices are rising fast.
And just to keep this all in perspective, this sage advice is coming from someone who has never sold a Corvette in his life and is sitting on 4 and I love all of them for different reasons.
Bullshark
or what you perceive someone else thinks is . Are you buying a Vette to make big money on it when you decide to sell? Don't take this wrong, but it sounds to me like you may be trying to satisfy to many criteria and have set some pretty hard priorities that will be next to impossible to achieve.....at least within your price boggy. Meanwhile, if this is really for you, you may be missing out on some real valuable fun time with the hobby. I am not suggesting that you settle for something far less than what you want, but you can buy one close, have fun with it and trade up if something better surfaces. Life is short and Gas prices are rising fast. And just to keep this all in perspective, this sage advice is coming from someone who has never sold a Corvette in his life and is sitting on 4 and I love all of them for different reasons.
Bullshark
At the end of the day I like a car where I can trust the seller, the background is clear and it somehow gets me enthused to own it. It's hard to write these things down... it's more emotion I guess.
I do like this question and the replies. But I'm still not convinced the engine is the be-all end-all on LT1s. Just because the engine block has failed does not make it a base model car. There are a lot of features to the package and as many of you have noted they are costly to duplicate.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
In your price range I think you will find an LT-1, although you're going to have to make some sacrifices and it's going to take some time because there aren't as many out there. I bought mine a little over a year ago in your price range so it is possible.
First off I hope you like coupe because that's probably what you'll get in that price range. I wanted a coupe so for me the fact that they were cheaper worked to my advantage. You could probably also get a NOM with good paint, or a #matching car with wrong color and/or bad paint. With the LT-1 I think the original drivetrain is more important than the paint. A car with the wrong paint or bad paint can always be repainted but a car only has its original engine once. In my case I ended up with a #matching mechanically sound LT-1 that needed some things like removal of some rusty hooker side-pipes, new exhaust system and eventually it's going to need paint. For me this was a good compromise because I could afford to do the exhaust immediately and the paint was good enough driver quality that I could live with it for some years and enjoy the car knowing i'll redo it some day. I'm happy with it because I drive it and don't have to worry about every little ding or scratch, the car still looks sharp and it's an LT-1 which was a plus for me. I also have cousins that own a body shop so I know when i do paint it (while it will still be expensive) i will get a really good deal.
The other thing that will affect price is LT-1 with docs vs. no docs. I know some might disagree with this and say an LT-1 without original docs you should assume is a regular small block (since there are fakes out there). But my personal opinion is that the key is doing your homework and get someone who really knows LT-1's to check out the car for you (like a local NCRS guy). Especially where even docs can be faked these days the best way to verify is have an expert look at it. What I'm trying to say is that an LT-1 that is real with docs will go for more than an LT-1 that is real without docs. So that is another way to get the car into your price range. Again, especially without the docs key is not to buy a fake and the best way i think to do that is by doing your homework. There are a lot of distinguishing characteristics (that i know you are aware of) and while anything could be faked, the cost of doing so would probably be more than the value gain by faking the LT-1.
As bullshark said life is too short and get the car that you want. If an LT-1 is definitely what you want then either spend the extra money or figure out what compromises you can live with (like poor paint,etc). For me that was a car that I can drive NOW and enjoy that still looks sharp and is an LT-1, but I know i will need to put some money in some day. You may be the type of person that won't be happy if you buy something else and you'll always wish you had the LT-1. On the other hand it may not be that important to you and maybe re-think getting an LT-1 since for the money you are looking to spend you can probably get a close to mint small block coupe.
First off I hope you like coupe because that's probably what you'll get in that price range. I wanted a coupe so for me the fact that they were cheaper worked to my advantage. You could probably also get a NOM with good paint, or a #matching car with wrong color and/or bad paint. With the LT-1 I think the original drivetrain is more important than the paint. A car with the wrong paint or bad paint can always be repainted but a car only has its original engine once. In my case I ended up with a #matching mechanically sound LT-1 that needed some things like removal of some rusty hooker side-pipes, new exhaust system and eventually it's going to need paint. For me this was a good compromise because I could afford to do the exhaust immediately and the paint was good enough driver quality that I could live with it for some years and enjoy the car knowing i'll redo it some day. I'm happy with it because I drive it and don't have to worry about every little ding or scratch, the car still looks sharp and it's an LT-1 which was a plus for me. I also have cousins that own a body shop so I know when i do paint it (while it will still be expensive) i will get a really good deal.
The other thing that will affect price is LT-1 with docs vs. no docs. I know some might disagree with this and say an LT-1 without original docs you should assume is a regular small block (since there are fakes out there). But my personal opinion is that the key is doing your homework and get someone who really knows LT-1's to check out the car for you (like a local NCRS guy). Especially where even docs can be faked these days the best way to verify is have an expert look at it. What I'm trying to say is that an LT-1 that is real with docs will go for more than an LT-1 that is real without docs. So that is another way to get the car into your price range. Again, especially without the docs key is not to buy a fake and the best way i think to do that is by doing your homework. There are a lot of distinguishing characteristics (that i know you are aware of) and while anything could be faked, the cost of doing so would probably be more than the value gain by faking the LT-1.
As bullshark said life is too short and get the car that you want. If an LT-1 is definitely what you want then either spend the extra money or figure out what compromises you can live with (like poor paint,etc). For me that was a car that I can drive NOW and enjoy that still looks sharp and is an LT-1, but I know i will need to put some money in some day. You may be the type of person that won't be happy if you buy something else and you'll always wish you had the LT-1. On the other hand it may not be that important to you and maybe re-think getting an LT-1 since for the money you are looking to spend you can probably get a close to mint small block coupe.
