T/A Bolt cut where?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Likes: 1
T/A Bolt cut where?
I am removing my T/A and have ran into a problem. The bolt will not come out. I have removed the nut and the bolt will spin. I can not remove the shims. The bolt passes throught them. I cut throught the rubber bushing but the blade hardly marks the bushing tube. I have tryed to beat it out but afraid if I hit it much more I could damage the frame. Any help?
Thanks charlie
Thanks charlie
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
If you can't pry the shims out, cut through the shims parallel to the trailing arm. It's going to take a lot more blades and a lot more time - the shim material is hard.
My shims were pretty well rusted in place, but with some patience I managed to yank them out. It's much easier to only cut the bolt.
My shims were pretty well rusted in place, but with some patience I managed to yank them out. It's much easier to only cut the bolt.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10,628
Likes: 132
From: Duvall, WA
To get the shims out, I once used a punch on the end of them and hammered them so they rotated up. Then I used vice grips to grab ahold of the shims and wiggle them out. You only need to get one of the thicker shims out and then it makes the rest of the shims easier to get out.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Likes: 1
Thanks guys. I did get one T/a off. The bolt came out NO problem! But the other one is the one I posted about. The shims are not notched. They have holes in them that the bolt goes through and holds them in place. There is no cotter pin. I should have told you the car is a 68 and I have the body off.
charlie
charlie
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Thanks guys. I did get one T/a off. The bolt came out NO problem! But the other one is the one I posted about. The shims are not notched. They have holes in them that the bolt goes through and holds them in place. There is no cotter pin. I should have told you the car is a 68 and I have the body off.
charlie
charlie
Get a bunch of 8" bi-metal blades and start cutting through the shim packs and bolt. It's going to be fairly slow going.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 1,361
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
If you have a good aim, use a 1/8" drill to drill straight thru the shims and
also thru the bolt. (right angles to the bolt)
Then use a 1/4" bit to follow up, then use a bit that is at least the diameter of the bolt and with that the bolt will be severed.
Do this on each side and the TA will come right out.
With good/sharp drill bits, this process will only take a few minutes.
also thru the bolt. (right angles to the bolt)
Then use a 1/4" bit to follow up, then use a bit that is at least the diameter of the bolt and with that the bolt will be severed.
Do this on each side and the TA will come right out.
With good/sharp drill bits, this process will only take a few minutes.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
What kind of crappy blades are you using.
I know the shims are tough and it will take a few more blades. 
If the body is off the frame just cut the heads or the nuts off with the sawzall and punch them through. If the bolt is rusted to the sleeve them you have to cut the bolt. A little cutting oil will help also/