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go to autozone or walmart and buy 4 cans of the spray undercoating. It will freshen up the undercoating the factory sprayed in there to cover up the body paint and black out the wells.
Get some low-tack mashing tape and carefully mask your wheel well edges.....Don't press the tape totally flat... you've got fresh paint.
I've always used Semi-gloss or Matte/Satin Rustoleum spray, but brushed on would eliminate taping!
Tape over the body mount rubbers etc....looks bad when the whole area is "spray bombed" including soft parts.
There is an aluminum plate in the left rear wheel well. Polish it out.
Steel wool or scotch bite some polish on the mufflers to brighten them up so when you look past the rear tire you see "fresh" looking steel.
Last edited by John Ulrich; Jan 10, 2008 at 09:54 PM.
I just redid mine. Took seam sealer and redid all the seams and brushed a coat on the bottom of the upper fender surfaces to keep the occasional rock from flying up and starring the fenders from underneath. Masked the individual bushings off and sprayed undercoating over it. Letting it set up for a couple of weeks and then will paint on top of it. Looks good and I know its all sealed up!
What was the original underbody finish on a mid-70s C3? The underseal on my '76 seems patchy and since I'm taking the body off I'm curious to find out what it would have been like. I don't want to cover it too obviously with some ugly-looking (but smart) modern alternative.
It may just be me, but I'm not a big fan of rattle can rebuilds. To me if you are going through the trouble of detailing your underbody it should be primed, sealed and painted with a quality automotive paint system.
Fully restored, the car should look as good on the bottom as it does on the top.
As for the rustproofing, think about how hard it was to take that stuff off. Are you sure you want to put it back on?