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I have a tester out in my garage that done it. It would heat the coil up for a few minutes and then it had an air gap between two posts with a *** on one post. You screwed the air gap farther apart until the spark failed. Then you read on the face of the tester under where the screw stopped to see if your coil was good. It worked fairly well as it could eliminate a coil pretty quickly as being good or bad. I don't think they make the thing anymore as coils are almost non existant as points are eliminated. The coils they use today on electronic ignitions are not like the oil filled ones from the 50's and 60's. The modern day ones are probably checked using a multimeter and no physical "load" is tested like the tester I have.
The typical method to bench test it is using an ohm meter. With the coil disconnected, measure resistance between (+) & (-) terminals; the reading for a points type coil should be about 1.5 ohms. To test the secondary; measure between the tower and the (-) terminal and you should have between 4,000 & 20,000 ohms. An infinite reading on either indicates an open in the windings and readings beyond those parameters indicate a faulty coil. There should be no reading between any termainal and the case. A coil could have a heat related problem and still pass the tests.