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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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Well I am going to start my rear suspension R&R. This will include replacing the spring, u-joints, T/A's, all bushings, etc.... as well as cleaning up the undercarriage. I will take plenty of pics and if I can ever figure out how to post the pics, I will do so for others to learn from. Wish me good luck!
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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good luck,take your time and you'll be ok
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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Good luck with the R&R. I did mine last winter and had a lot of fun with it.

Here's a couple of shots of the finished job.



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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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Gary, eastltd,

Thanks for the wise words and inspiration. Well I got the rear spring off, loosened up the both T/A swing arm bolts without having any problems, and removed the strut arm cam bolts. Then the fun began. I only got one of the brake caliper mounting bolts loose after soaking them in PB Blaster numerous times. I tried rapping them with a breaker bar without success. I also had the same issue with the half shaft bolts on the wheel side, and differential side too. It appears that they are frozen on. I was tempted to break out the air impact wrench and give it a whirl, but the space is tight. I'm done for the day. Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 427-390
Gary, eastltd,

Thanks for the wise words and inspiration. Well I got the rear spring off, loosened up the both T/A swing arm bolts without having any problems, and removed the strut arm cam bolts. Then the fun began. I only got one of the brake caliper mounting bolts loose after soaking them in PB Blaster numerous times. I tried rapping them with a breaker bar without success. I also had the same issue with the half shaft bolts on the wheel side, and differential side too. It appears that they are frozen on. I was tempted to break out the air impact wrench and give it a whirl, but the space is tight. I'm done for the day. Any ideas?

Thanks

Go back out to the shop and soak the bolts one more time. Then open a beer and look at em real hard while you down the bottle.

Try again tomorrow.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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PB Blaster is wonderful stuff but sometimes you have to be patient. Spray the parts daily and try to work the bolts back and forth to get some movement. Once you get movement you will eventually get the bolt free. If the bolt moves a little keep spraying the PB and working it. It may take several days but the bolts will eventually free up. I have used PB on 2 different rusty Corvette frames and it will always free up rusty bolts unless they are so bad that they are welded together from corrosion.



Rick B.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 08:38 PM
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Thanks guys. That was the approach I was going to take. I'm so damn impatient and want this stuff off NOW! Beer is open, time to relax...
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 427-390
Gary, eastltd,

Thanks for the wise words and inspiration. Well I got the rear spring off, loosened up the both T/A swing arm bolts without having any problems, and removed the strut arm cam bolts. Then the fun began. I only got one of the brake caliper mounting bolts loose after soaking them in PB Blaster numerous times. I tried rapping them with a breaker bar without success. I also had the same issue with the half shaft bolts on the wheel side, and differential side too. It appears that they are frozen on. I was tempted to break out the air impact wrench and give it a whirl, but the space is tight. I'm done for the day. Any ideas?

Thanks

Had the same problem with my caliper bolts. Broke out the impact (chinese junk model) and no good. Broke down and spent $150 on an IR impact and they came right off. I think the rust needs some vibration to break through.

Soak 'em good in PB plaster, if that doesn't do any good break out the impact.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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PB Blaster and impact tools are your best friends!

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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Poppa Bud
Had the same problem with my caliper bolts. Broke out the impact (chinese junk model) and no good. Broke down and spent $150 on an IR impact and they came right off. I think the rust needs some vibration to break through.

Soak 'em good in PB plaster, if that doesn't do any good break out the impact.
There's a world of difference between the cheap ones and a quality impact wrench.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 11:23 AM
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Im rapping up my rearend rebuild this week. I guess I have been lucky and havent had too many issues with stuck bolts. I pb blasted them all and borke them all free without an impact. I had a few bloody knuckles though. The only bolt i broke was the one on the rear of the spare tire tray that I found out had two nuts on it after the fact. Hopefully by the time I start in the engine compartment my fathers garage will be clean enough to utilize the air tool and compressor he has had for several years without even hooking up.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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The plan is to soak in PB blaster for the next 2 - 3 days, then try to bust 'em loose. I'll let you know what develops.

Thanks for the encouragement.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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OK, new question: How do I remove the parking brake cable from the wheel? Do I need to remove the caliper to do this?
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 427-390
OK, new question: How do I remove the parking brake cable from the wheel? Do I need to remove the caliper to do this?
The parking brake cable is attached to the trailling arm and the shoe lever. I can take a few detail shots for you tonight. Let me know what you need.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 11:30 AM
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eastltd,

I can see where the cable goes between the caliper and rotor, but I cannot see where it attaches or how to remove it. I haven't been able to get the calipers off yet. I have the parking brake handle released, in the "down" position inside the car. Do I need to create more slack in the cable? If I can get the cable off the shoe lever I may be able to get the T/A off and put it into a vise so I can get better leverage to remove the caliper bolts. Any pics you got will really help out.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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I'll go out tonight and take a few detail shots for you. In the meantime, loosen off the cable adjuster to see if you can free up the end.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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I'll try loosening up the cable and see if that works.

Thanks.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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I just had a look at my rear brake assembly and took a few shots for you. Unfortunately, the wheels and tires are mounted so it's difficult to get the camera in there.

Looking at it though, I think it best that you remove the calipers.

Hope these help.











I through in a motor shot too just for fun.



Good luck
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Excellent pics. Pretty much looks the same as my car, just my stuff is old and worn out. I was afraid you were going to say that I should remove the calipers. I'll keep workin' on getting the bolts loose.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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OK, got the passenger side T/A out last night. Woo Hoo! Thanks eastltd for the pics. Also I was able to remove both shock mounts from each T/A using a 3/8 NPT nipple that was suggested by I'm Batman and smacking each one 10 - 20 times with a BFH. Worked out great! On to the driver side T/A!
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