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Wheel collapsed. Causes?

Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:53 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by FatCat Blue 80
however I can tell you that Polly Bushings can and will allow the end cap bolts to come loose and then the "A" arm will walk off the shaft.
More common than some would believe....be interesting to see what caused OP's issue...
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #22  
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We demand more information and pictures! Need pictures!!
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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I'm not doubting the polys will not compress as tight as the rubbers and maybe some have loosened some. It just looks like the frame to cross shaft bolts are the ones that broke here.

We need more results and pictures.

I have been running the polys on mine for 10 yeras now with no problem. I just switched over to VB control arms upper and lower with polys also for the front mono spring.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #24  
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Wow, this exact same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago; one of the bolts holding the a-arm shaft to the frame sheared off and the alignment shims fell out and disappeared; more than a little frustrating.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 06:38 PM
  #25  
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Replace the upper Aarm mounting bolts with ARP 7/16" wheel studs so you can add 3/4" of shims for negative camber and run a Vette brakes upper brace like I do. No failures with a brace. Poly bushings lack the serrations on the inner sleeve that the original Harris bushings have so they will rotate and back off mounting bolts causing failures. I won't run Poly stuff on my Vettes, it is POORLY engineered.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 10:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FatCat Blue 80
I'm sure we will get a report on what happen and witch bolt or what acctually failed; however I can tell you that Polly Bushings can and will allow the end cap blots to come loose and then the "A" arm will walk off the shaft. Poly's are nice to have and I have them now; they just need locktite and torqued.

It was explaned to me by a manufacture that the polly bushing will not clamp up with torque as the rubber does due to the fact that the polly will not compress.

If in fact the/or a bolt broke then you would be correct in stating it has nothing to do with the bushing material.
Thanks to everyone for the responses. After going over this several times with the garage, it seems the front end cap bolt (nearest the radiator) sheared off. It then allowed the A-arm to walk off the shaft as "fatcat blue 80" mentioned above. It went into the fan shroud, and just missed taking out the radiator. It was not the bolts holding on the cross shaft, as I had originally thought.

Two good things happened: 1, it was an easy fix and 2, while it was on the lift I had my fuel lines replaced as this car has always had a gassy smell. Seems fuel was seeping (very slowly) from the lines inside the passenger frame rail. Couldn't find a leak, but replaced them anyway. What a welcome fix!

Thanks again to all. Sorry for the lack of pictures. I promise to do better next time a wheel falls off
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 03:06 PM
  #27  
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If it shears off, poly or rubber won't matter. It's interesting how this turned into a "bash poly" thread before anyone knew any of the facts about this car's problem.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 03:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
If it shears off, poly or rubber won't matter. It's interesting how this turned into a "bash poly" thread before anyone knew any of the facts about this car's problem.
I hope I wasn't part of your disipointment. I happen to like poly bushings. It just sounded like the same experiance I had with the end cap bolt backing out on one of my cars. The bolt backing out or shearing off ended in the same result. In my case it was exactly as the OP stated. The "A" arm was into the fan shroud and that is how it sat.

I think any one of the aforementioned by other post could have been the problem.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 04:09 PM
  #29  
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if people are afraid... you can always use loctite and a jam nut........or drill/pin the bolt/nut

b
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