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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Default 76 brake booster

I need help getting to the nuts on the inside firewall. I've got the dash pad put and still can't get to them. Any helpful hints? By the way I'm a rookie.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:20 PM
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This is actually easier than you think and it can be done with the pad IN believe it or not.

All you need is a deep wall socket, a wobble without the spring, and a few full extensions. I take the seat out for more room, but it's not necessary either.

Just get the socket on the nut, and from out far away you can turn it off. Then do the next one...and before you know it you have all four nuts off and you're ready to get that booster off of the firewall.

Just curious, why the need to remove it?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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It's not an easy job. Two of the nuts are a real PITA to remove and reinstall. I took my driver's seat out to make some working room and reached them from underneath. The clip that attaches the booster to the brake pedal is a pain too. Do a search of this forum. There are tips as to what tools and sockets, etc., you will need.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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Thanks, Durango boy. My pedal goes all the way to the floor when I apply my brakes. I've replaced every other part of the braking system. This is the last piece.
Should I take the seat out? I can imagine it is better.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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thanks stock76. Can you give me a little mor insight to the pedal connection?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rookie76
Thanks, Durango boy. My pedal goes all the way to the floor when I apply my brakes. I've replaced every other part of the braking system. This is the last piece.
Should I take the seat out? I can imagine it is better.

Let me ask you this first, with the engine off, when you repeatedly press the brake pedal, does it get very firm to where it won't press down any more?

That is how it should be when the engine is off, and then when it's firm and you start the car the pedal should get soft again.

You say it goes to the floor...and that usually indicates a bad master or a lot of air in the system. I am guessing you have already bled your brakes...but most often it doesn't get all the air out unless you use a pressure bleeder system or check valve speed bleeders.

I would hate to see you pull and replace the booster if that's not even your problem.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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It doesn't have any bit of a pedal. I have replaced all of the calipers and pads. I've had a friend, who is a machanic for chevy, help me replace and bleed the system.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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I've pulled the master off and the piston inside of the booster could be pulled out with no effort. I'm thinking there is a gasket inside the booster and the piston shouldn't be able to come apart from the booster.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rookie76
I've pulled the master off and the piston inside of the booster could be pulled out with no effort. I'm thinking there is a gasket inside the booster and the piston shouldn't be able to come apart from the booster.

So before you disassembled it all, did you ever try to pump the pedal with the engine off? That's a key piece of info that'll indicate if you're replacing something that didn't need replacing.

Do you mean the tiny rod that pushes out of the booster and into the master? That comes out very easily. Booster seals rarely go bad, that's why I was looking at other options.

Also, bleeding Vette brakes seems like an easy task until you do it five times and still have air in the system.

Air gets trapped in the lines, and just moves back and forth as you bleed, while not actually being removed. Trust me, I would BET there is still a lot of air in your system.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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I have just tried pumping the brakes with the engine off. And nothing.
Yes it is the rod that pushes out of the booster into the master.
I really appreciate your help.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rookie76
I have just tried pumping the brakes with the engine off. And nothing.
Yes it is the rod that pushes out of the booster into the master.
I really appreciate your help.

Okay, when you tried that was the master still hooked up, and hooked up to the lines...or have some of the components been removed when you tried it?

Also, did you ever check the vacuum to the booster?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:04 PM
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The booster is usually not the problem with a low brake pedal. DB is right, most likely still air in the system. That rod will come out of the booster easily, that is normal. Make sure that rod is adjusted correctly or it may not push the master cylinder enough. Are you using a pressure bleeder? I've heard good things about the motive brand bleeder, but you can't beat the bladder style bleeders.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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All components was still hooked when I tried pumping. When I pulled the rod out of the booster there is a metal disc on the rod that was bent a little bit.
My real concern is will the pedal going to the floor still be because of air i the line?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rookie76
My real concern is will the pedal going to the floor still be because of air i the line?

Yes air in the lines will cause that for sure.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Aktbird
The booster is usually not the problem with a low brake pedal. DB is right, most likely still air in the system. That rod will come out of the booster easily, that is normal. Make sure that rod is adjusted correctly or it may not push the master cylinder enough. Are you using a pressure bleeder? I've heard good things about the motive brand bleeder, but you can't beat the bladder style bleeders.
Yes, if the booster is bad you usually get the opposite of a soft pedal, the pedal is hard - no power brakes at all. Also if the booster is not holding vacuum and leaking your engine may idle poorly or die out on you.

Make sure your booster is holding vacuum. Check it and also check the check valve the goes into it before replacing it. Sounds more like you may still have air in your brake lines/calipers.

I found a Motive brand pressure bleeder works best to get the air out.

Corvette brakes can be frustrating. Hang in there. By the time you get them working you won't be a rookie anymore!!
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