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'76 Tank / Sending unit Question.

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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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Default '76 Tank / Sending unit Question.

Howdy guys. I went to start my baby after the snow melted a few days ago, pulled open the cover, opened the garage, re-hooked the battery...

Turned the key ... and ... well .. no ignition. It rotates, no starting though. I added 2 gallons of gas (knowing that last year I had a minor tank leak toward the end of autumn,) tried again... nothing. I checked my haines manual, did the routine, pump the gas 2 dozen times, manually played with my choke etc. I noticed after even all of this, I didn't get my usual gas smell from my carb, so I pulled my gas line out, and saw it was bone dry.

Long story short (too late) I have convinced myself this is a problem with my fuel sending unit, however, if this is indeed the case, and knowing my tank had already previously had problems, I am wondering when I drop the tank if it would be possible to just put in a non-repro tank and sending unit without any major modifications or if I am forced to stretch the very limited college budget on a reproduction.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, and thank you again for your time guys.

Last edited by Fatty_VM; Apr 9, 2008 at 10:32 PM. Reason: spelling and smilies
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 08:08 AM
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Did you check the line going into the fuel pump? If there is fuel in that line, but not after the pump, then the pump might be the problem and not the tank.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 08:34 AM
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When you turn on the ignition, does the fuel guage move? If it dosen't then could be the sending unit, also check the fuse.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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NO WAY a no-start condition is related to the fuel gauge or sender.

Most likely the fuel pump lost its prime over the winter (via evaporation), and needs some cranking/vacuum developed to get fule to the pump, and on to the carburetor.

Use quick start, or gas in the carb, to get it to fire, this will develop enough vacuum to pull the gas through the lines.

Definitely check your rotor, cap, and plugs, to ensure a hot spark.

Steve
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by halfmoontrail
NO WAY a no-start condition is related to the fuel gauge or sender.

Most likely the fuel pump lost its prime over the winter (via evaporation), and needs some cranking/vacuum developed to get fule to the pump, and on to the carburetor.

Use quick start, or gas in the carb, to get it to fire, this will develop enough vacuum to pull the gas through the lines.

Definitely check your rotor, cap, and plugs, to ensure a hot spark.

Steve
Thanks you guys who replied.

GD - Fuses seem ok, The gauge moves, but I never look at my gauges as being even 25% accurate This is my last resort (the sending unit and tank)

Durango - wow, I neglected to check, I'll pull it tonight and see.

Halfmoon - I've tried some off the shelf carb starter (spray stuff, seems like it's almost like grill starter fluid) Cap, plugs and rotor should be alright. I'll try direct gas in the carb (have never done it before..) the fuel pump just might be it.

Either way, let me experiment tonight and get back to you all. Thank you very much though for the help guys regardless =). :o




btw, does anyone know offhand if it's ok to swap tanks and sending systems anyway (for future reference)
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Fatty_VM
Halfmoon - I've tried some off the shelf carb starter (spray stuff, seems like it's almost like grill starter fluid) Cap, plugs and rotor should be alright. I'll try direct gas in the carb (have never done it before..) the fuel pump just might be it.

btw, does anyone know offhand if it's ok to swap tanks and sending systems anyway (for future reference)
If it doesn't fire on quick start, then it is a SPARK problem. If it fires and runs just long enough to burn the quick start (or gas in carb), then it is a FUEL DELIVERY problem, either pump (maybe not bad, just no fuel at pump) or lines.

Try also attaching a long piece of fuel hose (3/8") to the engine end of the long steel fuel line from the tank, suck on it a few times while holding down near the ground, you should be able to get the fuel flowing out of the tank and through the lines, maybe a little gummed up at the tank or in the lines, but it should flow with a little persuasion.

Feel free to swap tanks and sending systems...a lot of work for components that don't seem to be involved.

Steve
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by halfmoontrail
If it doesn't fire on quick start, then it is a SPARK problem. If it fires and runs just long enough to burn the quick start (or gas in carb), then it is a FUEL DELIVERY problem, either pump (maybe not bad, just no fuel at pump) or lines.

Try also attaching a long piece of fuel hose (3/8") to the engine end of the long steel fuel line from the tank, suck on it a few times while holding down near the ground, you should be able to get the fuel flowing out of the tank and through the lines, maybe a little gummed up at the tank or in the lines, but it should flow with a little persuasion.

Feel free to swap tanks and sending systems...a lot of work for components that don't seem to be involved.

Steve
Haha, yea, I'll be checking the pump and double checking for a spark after I get off of work. The tank / sending unit question re-asked was just to know at that point, I don't have enough disposable income to be fixing things that do not need fixing.

Thanks for the help Steve I'll be back tonight with updates and for any further advice.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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ok, checked my fuel pump and lines .. they are still bone dry. It's not a sparking problem either....

Brought it down to my mechanic, he had an electric pump laying around, we hooked it up .... it could pull nothing.

Ok, line of thinking NOW it IS my sending unit or something gumming up my tank itself.

But as I was talking to him, he sounded unsure of putting any 'ol tank up there. Said something along the lines of the tank and units being special made for the years ... is this really true? I thought the response was that anything could really go up there as long as it wasn't too big.

What say you corvette gods?
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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The mounting position is relatively specific to your year.

I have a feeling it's your pump. It's cheap and easy to install. Then if that doesn't work, drop the tank.

Now, something to consider, you'll likely be able to solve the problem by dropping the gas tank and evaluating everything you have. You'll be able to see if your lines are all still in good shape, if the bladder is okay, and if something is wrong or blocking fuel.

You'll have to buy all new rubber lines, S/S if you have the money, and just check out the actuation of the assembly in the tank.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fatty_VM
But as I was talking to him, he sounded unsure of putting any 'ol tank up there. Said something along the lines of the tank and units being special made for the years ... is this really true? I thought the response was that anything could really go up there as long as it wasn't too big.

What say you corvette gods?
...not a Corvette God by any means, but 1975-1977 Corvette fuel tanks have a "rubber bladder" in them originally. These bladders over the years are collapsing and deforming inside the tank itself. It is remotely possible that the bladder itself could be blocking the pick-up tube or the bladder developed a hole and the fuel is between the bladder and tank itself. I removed my '75's bladder in '94 and it's been that way ever since. You should be able to take a flashlight(with the fuel cap off)and look down to see if fuel is covering the sock(intank fuel filter)or the sock itself could be so clogged it's not letting any fuel pass through.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Borowski
...not a Corvette God by any means, but 1975-1977 Corvette fuel tanks have a "rubber bladder" in them originally. These bladders over the years are collapsing and deforming inside the tank itself. It is remotely possible that the bladder itself could be blocking the pick-up tube or the bladder developed a hole and the fuel is between the bladder and tank itself. I removed my '75's bladder in '94 and it's been that way ever since. You should be able to take a flashlight(with the fuel cap off)and look down to see if fuel is covering the sock(intank fuel filter)or the sock itself could be so clogged it's not letting any fuel pass through.

What he said.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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My '76 had a filter between the tank and the chassis fuel lines, at the back of the car. I had to remove the tank to discover it. I had running problems with my car for months before I discovered this filter and the cracked pipes that it was connected to. I removed the filter and replaced the rubber pipes and it's been good since.

This filter in my car was blocked, so when the fuel pump was sucking hard on the fuel lines, it was drawing air into the pipe through weaknesses in the old perished rubber fuel lines after this filter.

Dropping the tank and checking the condition of these neglected pipes and filter will cost you nothing except some time and might save you all sorts of trouble. That's what I'd do, I think.

You can see into the tank with a torch (don't drop it ) so check the condition of the fuel pick-up sock visually too. Don't worry about the gauge/sender yet - it can't be the cause of the problem, as someone said above.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BenUK
My '76 had a filter between the tank and the chassis fuel lines, at the back of the car. I had to remove the tank to discover it. I had running problems with my car for months before I discovered this filter and the cracked pipes that it was connected to. I removed the filter and replaced the rubber pipes and it's been good since.

This filter in my car was blocked, so when the fuel pump was sucking hard on the fuel lines, it was drawing air into the pipe through weaknesses in the old perished rubber fuel lines after this filter.

Dropping the tank and checking the condition of these neglected pipes and filter will cost you nothing except some time and might save you all sorts of trouble. That's what I'd do, I think.

You can see into the tank with a torch (don't drop it ) so check the condition of the fuel pick-up sock visually too. Don't worry about the gauge/sender yet - it can't be the cause of the problem, as someone said above.
But in the US we call it a flashlight. Torch usually refers to something with fire here.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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You mentioned in your first post that you had a minor gas tank leak. There is no such thing as a minor gas tank leak. If you smell gas you have to find the source of the leak. Possible effects of a gas leak are: burning your house down if you store your Vette in a garage near a furnace, or burning the car up when the leaking gas catches fire on the exhaust system.

You may have a clogged fuel line - if you have a leak there might very well be rust in the tank or lines or a rotted hose sucking in air, but you really need to get under the car and find out where the leak is coming from.



Rick B.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Aktbird
But in the US we call it a flashlight. Torch usually refers to something with fire here.
I knew what he meant, but that could be VERY bad!!!
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 1981Z06Vette
I knew what he meant, but that could be VERY bad!!!

Thanks for the clarification. Will try to remember that one. We brits have a few weird ones to remember: What you call fenders, we call "wings". I have no idea why
And don't even get me started on tramp => bum => fanny => vagina

Last edited by BenUK; Apr 17, 2008 at 06:23 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Borowski
...not a Corvette God by any means, but 1975-1977 Corvette fuel tanks have a "rubber bladder" in them originally. These bladders over the years are collapsing and deforming inside the tank itself. It is remotely possible that the bladder itself could be blocking the pick-up tube or the bladder developed a hole and the fuel is between the bladder and tank itself. I removed my '75's bladder in '94 and it's been that way ever since. You should be able to take a flashlight(with the fuel cap off)and look down to see if fuel is covering the sock(intank fuel filter)or the sock itself could be so clogged it's not letting any fuel pass through.

Paul, you hit the nail on the head, I added a ton more fuel cleaner, and dropped it off at my mechanic who worked his mumbo jumbo (using a funny looking snake with suction) and managed to get this sock gas permeable again.

Thank you everyone for all of your help again, every one of you did me a great deal of help by your suggestions. i hope in the future I am able to do the same .

Originally Posted by 1981Z06Vette and BenUK
But in the US we call it a flashlight. Torch usually refers to something with fire here.

I knew what he meant, but that could be VERY bad!!!
Ahaha, no worries I understood what he had meant, the wording seemed a little strange at first, until I saw his username.

Last edited by Fatty_VM; Apr 17, 2008 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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...I stumbled upon my "bladder issues" quite by accident. Was going to a car cruise-in in the summer of '94 about 40 miles away. Bladder was "deforming" inside the tank itself and with the gas gauge showing about 3/8 tank and 20mi away from the cruise-in going 70mph on the expressway, car quit deader than a doornail. The bladder was deformed to the point where it was actually holding the gauge float up in the air showing the 3/8 tank of fuel, but yet I ran the car til the tank was bone dry.
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