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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 12:25 AM
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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You're not using a DA to strip the car are you?
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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well, just to get the big spots. i'm done with the DA now. i got all the mostly flat areas so anything with creases gets to get done by hand.
not looking forward to that.
so now that i'm taking this plunge, it'll be a while before i can actually afford to get it painted. i have a few ideas. tell me what you think.
these are all tenative:
1) c6 rear side markers.
2) bringing out the side vent a little. kind of like a wheel flare. just enough to accentuate the line, kind of like the new ZR-1.
3) i'm reconstructing the headlights for less "air brake" effect. i have an idea, just go with me on this one.
4) grafting in slightly wider wheel flares on all four.
5) my Z06 style hood should almost be done, but i haven't heard back from my fiberglass guy.
6) i'm thinking of replacing the front markers with a different style and using the cut-out for front brake vents.

now the only thing i'm really torn on is whether to use fiberglass bumper caps or urethane. any suggestions?
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 11:39 PM
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I have tried to find out what is the way to strip a Vette. There is someone who says each method is bad for one reason or another. Don't use chemical strippers, don't use soda blasting, don't use a DA sander. The least objectionable seem to be the razor blade and hand sanding. They also sound like the most work. Good luck on your project. Keep us posted on how it works out.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Todd M
I have tried to find out what is the way to strip a Vette. There is someone who says each method is bad for one reason or another. Don't use chemical strippers, don't use soda blasting, don't use a DA sander. The least objectionable seem to be the razor blade and hand sanding. They also sound like the most work. Good luck on your project. Keep us posted on how it works out.
TANSTAAFL
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 01:10 AM
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not sure why DA is such a bad thing. i see that it would be pretty easy to damage some angles or creases. as long as you stay in the flatter surfaces, it seems like a good way to do a lot of work in a short period of time. i got all the bigger surfaces done. next, it's just me and some motrin and some quality time with the sanding block. not looking forward to that.
there's a fair amount of repair needed too. the car has never been really hit, like hit hard. but all four fenders have some damage that will need some attention.
part of the reason i decided to get into this now is the paint continues to get worse and worse. as stated earlier, the car's been repaired on a couple of occasions. whoever did the repairs looks like they just primed and painted over the original paint. problem with that is the orginal paint was laquer and the enamel just trapped the gases in, until it just bubbled up underneath it. i have been getting these pinhole spots all along the fenders for years.
don't know why soda blasting would be a bad deal. i always thought that would be the best way to go.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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hi

there is nothing wrong with using a da. just keep it flat and stay away from edges. you will save allot of time using one. i razor stripped my car and da's the rest. now my car is in primer and i am block sanding, it is flat as a board with no digs or divets anywhere.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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I dig those wheels. I've been considering Hyperblacks for mine.
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It seems that the concensus is that soda residual may be left behind not matter how much you clean afterwards and cause problems with paint. Some paint manufacturers actually warn you that if you have soda blasted there is no warranty on the paint itself. I believe (and I may be wrong, and correct me if I am) but SPI says NOT to use their paint over a soda blasted car.
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