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Harbor Freight Plasma Cutter (new)

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Old May 4, 2008 | 12:00 AM
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Default Harbor Freight Plasma Cutter (new)

Bought it on sale a few months ago, just fired it up for the first time today.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95136

Seems to work pretty well. I'm replacing cab corners on a P/U today, so only cutting 18ga. Saved a bunch of time cutting out and making new inner support brackets that were shot. One application that I didn't think about before was using it to cut spot welds. A LOT faster than using a s/w cutting bit. I didn't have time to cut anything thick yet but that's coming, I'm sure.

I considered a Hypertherm and Miller but decided to go cheap cause I don't anticipate using plasma that much ..and figured I could put money saved towards other shop equip. What I like about it is it uses a common gun and does a pilot arc. Plus they give ya a lot of gun cable 18' and built-in regulator.

Mark G

Last edited by Mark G; May 4, 2008 at 12:04 AM.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 12:54 AM
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Cool!

I have been wanting one for a while now.

As you use it more, please do a full write-up about it's performance. Maybe post some pics of the work it does for you.

Thanks.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 01:37 AM
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I have been real close to getting one of those also. I have never used one are they as simple to use as they seem? what are you replacing cab corners on? I will be changing mine on my 50 chevy truck soon
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Old May 4, 2008 | 02:03 AM
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your lucky you have one, ive wanted one for years but never had the $ for one. have fun with it
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Old May 4, 2008 | 03:27 AM
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Nice
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Old May 4, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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Thanks. I'll keep ya posted on how it works. So far, I'm happy with it. I've wanted one for years too. If you don't have a an air compressor or welder, though, those should come first (in that order).

I'm replacing cab corners on a 89 Chevy Tk. I cut them off with a cut-off tool because there are flamables inside. They didn't look that bad, but once I got them off, there are a couple inner brackets that need to be replaced. So, the plasma cutter was handy to cut the odd shaped sheet metal pieces that I fabbed into the same shape as the old inner brackets. I've done all this kind of metal working with cut-off tools, tin snips and grinders for years, so a plasma cutter in this case is a luxury, not a necessity. On the thicker stuff with odd shapes is where it'll prove it's metle (pun warning).

The H-F plasma cutter was $699 on sale. That's what I paid. I initially declined the 2yr replacement warranty, but I kind of know the mgr (cause I go there regularly), and he was at the check out counter and cut the warranty price way down to $69. So I bought it. Actually in terms of parts replacement, Harbor Freight is really good (most people don't know that), and that was another reason I went w/H-F. However, you will find units on Ebay that are pretty good too according to what I've read on 4x4 newsgroups where guys do a lot of metal fabrication. Most imports don't do a pilot arc but many will do 5/8" thick steel (H-F is only rated to 1/2"). I'm not sure how important the pilot arc is or not. It's handier and all the good units have it. You have to really be careful about the pilot arc. It'll shoot out an arc a good 1" into thin air for a second till it cuts out! You definitely don't want to accidentally bump it with your foot! Or leave it on with if you have little kids. I've never used one w/o a pilot arc, so I can't say, but it might be safer. A lot of people say you'll be screwed with consumables or service, but there are repair shops around that specialize in fixing import welders and plasma cutters ..and consumables ARE readily available.

Last edited by Mark G; May 4, 2008 at 01:43 PM.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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I've got the Parker Plasma and I love it. It's one of the ones with no pilot arc, I don't know if that's good or bad since it's the only plasma I've ever used. It was $464 shipped to my doorstep and it's been a great machine. Glad to hear the HF is working out for you, it was on my list when I was shopping for a plasma. Once you get one, you'll wonder how you lived without it.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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I am looking at this one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/RAMSOND-CUT-A-40...QQcmdZViewItem

they usually sell for around 350.00 plus 80.00 for shipping. I have read some reviews on them and they seem to be good.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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Yeah, I looked at that one (CUT 40). The yellow paint makes it a thumbs up for me. I actually was more interested in another model of theirs: "INVERTER 40 AMP PLASMA CUT 160 TIG 150 A MMA ARC WELDER". For a little more money you get a TIG and a ARC welder. The TIG probably isn't super high-tech, but there are times when ya get into a situation where the TIG would be nice (aluminum). Same with ARC welding. Even if ya have a wire-feed, sometimes there are project where only an stick welder will do the trick (cast iron). Let us know if you get it, how it works.

Last edited by Mark G; May 4, 2008 at 10:27 PM.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark G
Yeah, I looked at that one (CUT 40). The yellow paint makes it a thumbs up for me. I actually was more interested in another model of theirs: "INVERTER 40 AMP PLASMA CUT 160 TIG 150 A MMA ARC WELDER". For a little more money you get a TIG and a ARC welder. The TIG probably isn't super high-tech, but there are times when ya get into a situation where the TIG would be nice (aluminum). Same with ARC welding. Even if ya have a wire-feed, sometimes there are project where only an stick welder will do the trick (cast iron). Let us know if you get it, how it works.
I looked at that one also but it will only tig steel not aluminum and if I have to stick weld I am in trouble.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 07:21 AM
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I have had a hypertherm 120volt for several years. It is one of those "how did I ever get along without it?" things. I needed it to cut stainless steel , but now I use it all the time. It was about $1200, so me and a friend spit the cost, and I do a lot of metal work for him, occassionally he takes it to his farm to use it. I know that is pricey, but I think the cost on these has come down in recent years. Mine can work 3/8" steel, and sheetmetal work is like a new razor knife through butter. The nice thing is you can cut any kind of metal with it. (Aluminum,too!!) My $.02
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Old May 5, 2008 | 07:28 AM
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I have one of the Parker Plasma tec 40/160SV units. I've had for more than a year and have cut plenty of sheet metal, and floor pans, and 3/16" steel for frame repairs. I've used the Stick to weld up an overhead crane for my shop. I've used the Tig for welding up some exhaust pipe, and do the bird cage repairs on my 78. I bought the Tig foot pedal attachment. This unit works great. I'd recomend it, it's cheap and does the job well. The Parker support seems to be good. I've had the covers off it, and it seems to be well constructed.

Kipp
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Old May 5, 2008 | 08:12 AM
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Sound like a good purchase, I have been waiting for the price to come down on these units to. For as often that I may use it, I dont want to have alot of money tied into it.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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The Parker is the first Chinese plasma cutter I actually considered.
http://www.parkermetalworking.com/

It's extremely lightweight at 20lbs vs the HF plasma cutter, which is a hefty 50lbs. The Parker 40A will actually cut thicker metal (although I haven't tried to max out the HF unit). Anybody remotely interested in the Parker unit (or import Plasma in general) should read this link:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/newr...1&p=1565317074

I think I would seriously give the CUT40 (Ebay) a LOOONG look too. I wish I had the opportunity to take the hoods off a Parker or Ramsond plasma cutter and compare side by side with a HF unit to see what the additional weight is about. Suposedly they are all inverter units. My suspiscion is that the Parker and Ramsond units use a light-weight switch-mode power supply whereas the HF unit has a much heavier (and more expensive) transformer and a large capacitor, probably necessary for the pilot arc feature. That's my guess anyway.

Kipp, I'd like to know how well did the TIG feature worked on exhaust work? Also, can you elaborate more on the arc feature (striking the workpiece)? Is it a pain, or not at all?

Mark G

Last edited by Mark G; May 5, 2008 at 11:53 PM.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gator79
I am looking at this one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/RAMSOND-CUT-A-40...QQcmdZViewItem

they usually sell for around 350.00 plus 80.00 for shipping. I have read some reviews on them and they seem to be good.
for some reason all of theese were pulled from e bay I was the high bidder and there was less than an hour to go in the auction. every Ramsond product was pulled from ebay. I wen with my second choice, this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/SIMADRE-40D-110-...QQcmdZViewItem

I won the auuction for $281.00 I will let you know how it works
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Old May 6, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark G
Kipp, I'd like to know how well did the TIG feature worked on exhaust work? Also, can you elaborate more on the arc feature (striking the workpiece)? Is it a pain, or not at all?

Mark G
I had no trouble striking the arc, just put the torch head very near the work and pressed the pedal. The only trouble I did have was my fault as I kept getting the tungsten into the puddle. The unit heats very quickly, and being the first time I did any TIG, it came out pretty good. I even welded an O2 bung into a hole I drilled in the Y-pipe. This was quite a difference in metal thickness, and the TIG didn't blow thru the thinner piece. I also have a MIG setup, which has on occasion blown thru thin metal. The TIG seems to act like a gas welder, except no waiting for the pieces to reach temperature. I got an instructional DVD on TIG welding, watched it and tried out a few scraps, and then did the exhaust.

Kipp
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Old May 8, 2008 | 10:54 PM
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I just saw today in the latest store flyer the Harbor Freight Plasma Cutter is on sale for $699 ($100 off) until May 27th. Just thought I'd pass that along.

Mark G
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 04:51 AM
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So slow. But it is good. Freight forwarders
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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I've always wanted to try one for cutting the T arm pivot bolt WITH the old rusty shims still in place. I know it wouldn't have any problems with just the 3/8 bolt but will it cut through the shims also ?
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