changing brake pads on 81
Make sure that you unclip the cover on the master cylinder before trying to compress the pistons. You should also check the level of the brake fluid. If it is near full, you might want to remove some before proceeding. Overflowing brake fluid is bad!!!! (Brake fluid disolves paint very effectively)
I've done this with a thin, flat scredriver, but it is a bit of a pain. With new pads, there isn't all that much room to play with and the pad doesn't "twist" very well from side to side.
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Good luck,Peace,,,Moosie
Remove pin and pull pads out
Remove the two caliper bolts that hold caliper to mount
Pull caliper up, so it is above rotor and place new pads in caliper and replace pin.
Open bleeder screw (front 2 bleeders on rear) and push pads to the sides and lower caliper back in place. Tighter bleeder and replace caliper bolts (2) and then bleed caliper. 15 minute job.
Open the bleeder and pump the pedel 5 to 10 times and close the bleeder. Start the car and feel pedal. It should be fine
If your budget is tight. The old fashion way. You'll need a second person. Do one caliper at a time. When you finish each caliper start car and check brakes, this way if you have a problem you will know which caliper is the problem.
Fill cup with brake fluid
Attach clear hose to bleeder and run into cup
Open bleeder valve and have the person in the car pump the brake pedal ( car does not have to be running) until fluid reaches the cup. Make sure master cylinder stays full. You don't want the master cylinder to run empty and suck air.
Once you see there is no air bubbles in the clear hose, have the person put the pedal to the floor and hold it there. Now you close the bleeder
That's it
Start the car and feel the pedal. It will come up and should feel fine. If not you have air still in the ine.
When doing the fronts, do passanger side first then drivers
When doing the rears do passanger side first and do inside bleeder first then outside bleeder. Then proceed to drivers side.















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