76 paint
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
The razor blade method is the most common because it creates the least amount of overall work, and it's not too hard unless you're dealing with five layers of paint.
Chemical strippers are fine, but make sure you stop at the primer and sand the rest. You don't want the chemicals seeping into the fiberglass...you won't ever get them out, and they will ruin the new paint.
Sanding will work fine, but it will take the longest, and be careful of a DA. Using a DA without a lot of experience with one on fiberglass and curves will result in a lot of filling and sanding later when the paint is all gone and prep begins for the new coats.
Chemical strippers are fine, but make sure you stop at the primer and sand the rest. You don't want the chemicals seeping into the fiberglass...you won't ever get them out, and they will ruin the new paint.
Sanding will work fine, but it will take the longest, and be careful of a DA. Using a DA without a lot of experience with one on fiberglass and curves will result in a lot of filling and sanding later when the paint is all gone and prep begins for the new coats.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,339
Likes: 416
From: Seattle Area WA
First, this should be in the paint and body section.
You could use a razor like Mathew suggested but I've seen more damage done with a blade than you can imagine. Nicks galore which take a lot of time to fix. If this is original lacquer paint, just get some Durablocks, some 120 wet, and wet sand it off by hand. It goes very fast. Just do a panel a day, it isn't very overwhelming and you won't screw anything up.
You could use a razor like Mathew suggested but I've seen more damage done with a blade than you can imagine. Nicks galore which take a lot of time to fix. If this is original lacquer paint, just get some Durablocks, some 120 wet, and wet sand it off by hand. It goes very fast. Just do a panel a day, it isn't very overwhelming and you won't screw anything up.
