Second request for help.
Had posted a request for this a few days ago and Alan turned me on to the pic that ChocDog had for her rebuild. That gave me an idea of where to start. I now know how to basically go about the operation, but have a few questions.
1. I plan on using a dremel with a cutting wheel to take the 1/4 panel off. What do I need to be concerned about and which wheel do I use or does it matter?
2. I can see the basic lines from the damage, how much do I want to take off? How far is too far?
I'm sure more questions are to come but I don't want to get too far ahead of my self. I will do this job and come back to the topic on my next post.

Thanx ahead of time.

P. S. for those who don't know............75 C3

 

Hobby stores have a 2 inch really nice dremmell blade strong get the blade and it will have the collett piece and buy an extra disc or two.
But let me be one of the first to tell you fiberglass goes Everwhere when you cut ,dremmell or just even sand it . If you know all this sorry if not Just do it. First thing a mask(Face) particals (Power) then long sleeve shirts taped to a glove you can work with but no to thin. Im not sure if spraying down the area your cutting would help but if it did i would use a little parts cleaner to run water on the area your cutting also dont forget to check where your grind some time they run wires through fender wells and such. next dont wear shorts .on clean up use cold water and a sponge and dont scrub just wipe ypu might get some of the fibers to pull out that way that stuff is bad news some people have an allergic reaction to glass stuff.

 

You typically don't use a dremel but a grinder to v notch the bonding seam and then chisel it off being careful not to damage the bonding strip.

 

thats a lot to ask of a low torque dremel

 

that's how I did it.

 

Ok, I hope I am not totally off here, I have a 72 and some of the adhesive is a little different but since you can access the bonding strip from the damage incurred, I just used an air chisel and gently went along the bonding strip, the panel came off relatively easy and was able to save the bonding strip. No dremel required, although gloves and mask are highly reccomended!! Supposedly covering your arms with baby powder also helps.

 

I don't think a dremmel is going to get you where you want to go. You don't want to cut the panel off. Just get a harbor freight 4" grinder and a standard grinding wheel for $10 and grind a "V" along the bonding seam only about 1/8" - 3/16" deep until you get to the bonding strip. That gives you enough width to get a chisel in there. I don't know if you will get the width using a dremmel. Then, the best is to use a toothed masonary chisel about 2 1/2" wide or so. Hammer downward in the v-groove using sharp blows and a 3lb hammer moving the chisel along the seam with each blow. You might have to start over again at the begining of the seam. Don't look for the seam to break loose with the first blow, just keep going along the seam. It's like splitting a stump where it won't seem to be loosening up but then on one magical blow the whole seam will "pop" free. When I did mine, the bonding strip stayed in place and you will have to grind away some additional original bonding material off some areas, but then you just adhere the new panel onto the bonding strip. Also, making a paper cone for the adhesive (like a cake decorating cone) like they show in the Ecklers video is a good idea as you have to work pretty fast to get all the adhesive and fender on before it sets up.

Ecklers DVD Vol 2 shows the whole process of replacing a 1/4 panel. It works just like they show on the video. If you are looking for comprehensive info on it, that video is worth the $ IMO. Good luck.

Mark G

 

Did you see my PM?