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I just had to share this with you guys , I bought a home chrome plating kit from http://www.micromark.com 45.00 plus shipping . I figure what do I have to lose. I wanted to plate some small parts on the model car I am buildings so .. I got the kit and started to plate things.. I buffed out some parts that I was going to throw away and buy new .. Well Not anymore they came out Damn right respectable for a driver and the amount of prep I did. This is Real chrome harder than Chinese Algebra.. I used a dremel tool and some metal polish and Whoha new chrome... If you have pitting. You will have to buy two other kits one for copper and one for nickel. First plate the part with copper . fill the pit with solder sand it smooth. replate with nickel buff till it shines plate with chrome .. New part. It fixes dull chrome perfectly I wish I could take some pix but the parts are too shiny and they didn't come out .
it looks like you need to supply the basin to chrome the parts. so really you can use any size bucket you want.
I meant quantity of the products included...like if you would need to buy two kits to supply enough chemical to plate an intake. In that case it might not be worth it for anything but small parts.
I meant quantity of the products included...like if you would need to buy two kits to supply enough chemical to plate an intake. In that case it might not be worth it for anything but small parts.
Your chrome will only be as good as the quality of the buffing before hand, if your buffed part shines like a mirror your chrome will look good. Sounds like the OP did it right. The copper, nickel, chrome is reffered to as triple plated and the most durable. When I had parts plated years ago on a custom Harley I always tipped the buffer a few extra $$ because thats where the quality starts.
We checked into our local chem dealer two years ago about buying some supplies and they wouldn't sell them because of the toxicity and the fact we didn't have the proper disposal process, your state may have different regulations.
The kit comes with two bottles of solution. equal to about a pint of chemical. The directions tell you to use a wand or use a glass basin to dip part. This will do small areas and small parts and touch up big parts.. So far I am thrilled with the outcome.. As far as Disposal you would have to take it to the town or city Refuse people as it is HAZ-MAT. Wear gloves and googles and wash after using. also dip the part in fresh water right after you finish puting on the solution , then buff.. And Yes the more you buff the part before plating the better the finish..
The kit comes with two bottles of solution. equal to about a pint of chemical. The directions tell you to use a wand or use a glass basin to dip part. This will do small areas and small parts and touch up big parts.. So far I am thrilled with the outcome.. As far as Disposal you would have to take it to the town or city Refuse people as it is HAZ-MAT. Wear gloves and googles and wash after using. also dip the part in fresh water right after you finish puting on the solution , then buff.. And Yes the more you buff the part before plating the better the finish..
This is something my brother would definatly be interested in, gonna pass it on to him, heck might look into it myself since it worked good for you.
I figured if it was what the businesses use that it had to be toxic/haz mat like you said. 35 years ago I dabbled playing around w/ that, the chem co. gave me chromic acid that was used back then, really toxic stuff and I was just a kid, no safety glasses, no respirator. I plated a fork as a test and yea it did work. Definatly can be done w/ the copper also, just do the DD and learn how. Thanks for the link