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We have rebuilt a 1976, 350 auto, all new wiring and distributor. We have not driven it yet, still trying to sort all the kinks out in the shop first. When it idles we are not getting a tach reading. It just stays on zero. We have brand new wiring and distributor. Any suggestions?
My 76' does the exact same thing only mine is stuck on like 15 hundred RPMS....When you start it does not move and when you step on it does not move....
My 76' does the exact same thing only mine is stuck on like 15 hundred RPMS....When you start it does not move and when you step on it does not move....
Mine too. I replaced the filter and no luck. The next thing is to drop the steering column and try to navigate behind the cluster for the circuit board. Its a $50 part but a major pain to install. There is zero room behind there to get your hand let alone tools.
No nothing moves when it's running or when we increase the trottle. I do notice that when I turn the key just so the power comes on and not the car, the tach goes up to the 5 rpm mark.
The radio noise filter that's located on the back of the intake manifold. here's a pic w/the filter circled. Try bypassing it and see if that helps.
As far as the tach itself, It is not unusual for the factory tach boards to go bad. There are a couple components that commonly go bad. However sometimes the chip on the board goes bad too, and that chip is now an obsolete part and no longer available. Replacement boards sometimes work, but often don't read correctly.
Are there any darkened/burnt spots on the printed circuit board itself? If so the board is probably repairable. The pic below shows a fellow forum members tach board before it was repaired.
It looks like a goner but ones that look like this are typically the ones that can be repaired.
If you want more info on possibly repairing it, please feel free to PM me.