70 vert, how hard is it to change these cables? When I purchased mine and had it transported, I believe the transporter driver stretched them as the handle comes up easily and the brakes don’t spread enough to hold the car. Car has had a full restoration and with the exception of the star wheel spring on the passenger side being put on backwards, so the star wheel hits it instead of the straight part of the spring all looks well. Thanks

 

Assuming that the e-brakes at the wheel are properly installed and adjusted, there is a simple adjustment on the cable that runs from the handle throught the pulley to the Y-cable that leads to each side. It requires 2 1/2 inch wrenches. Hope this helps!

 

Thanks for the reply - I already have that screwed forward as far as it goes.

Which cable would most like be the one that got stretched, the loop from wheel to wheel or the one to the handle?

 

GOOD LUCK

I replaced everything at the wheels and the rear cable. The cable itself is pretty easy to do (in the world of Vette parking brakes anyway ) I still cant get mine to tighten up. I am positive it is all assembled correctly. You may have to remove the rear wheels and use a screwdriver to adjust the parking brake shoes until they expand to where you cant turn the drum, then back off a notch or 2...no more. Then get up under as PABMD says and adjust up the cable itself with two 1/2" wrenches. You may get your parking brake handle to tighten up some then. Do a search on the forums. You'll find directions to do this, AND alot of frustrated owners like you and me!!!

Good luck!! Dont expect much, maybe you'll be pleasantly surprised!!

 

In follow-up to my above post, I havent changed the front cable (the one to the handle)....maybe it can stretch, but its pretty heavy. Guess its possible. That'll be my next step...

 

OK, how do I tell if the star is on backwards? Right now, they are both facing front.

 

The star wheel should be on your right hand side when viewing the drum, both sides should be the same (if installed correctly). The drivers side would be to the rear, passenger side to the front of the car. Expanding the little cylinder (and hence the shoes) means turning the star wheel towards the ground. If you use a flat bladed screwdriver as your "lever" and the edge of the adjustment hole as your "fulcrum", your hand will be moving in an upwards motion to expand the brake shoes...Your drivers side cylinder is installed backwards, so turn it the opposite way to expand the shoes.

 

Thanks, I'll fix it.

 

I would say both. When I had the rear susp. rebuilt on my '69, they put in new park brake hardware but not the cables. When I picked up the car, the park brake didn't work at all - LONG story about the shop but some other time. Anyway, because I griped, they replaced the rear cable and adjusted the shoes. It was better but not right. I was thoroughly disgusted and took the car home the way it was.

At home when I got under the car, the adjusting nuts were as far forward as they would go. As a temporary Bubba fix, I took a piece of 3/8 stainless steel tubing a little over an inch long and after removing the nuts I slipped the tubing over the long threaded piece of the front cable. This gave me enough additional adjustment that I was able to use the park brake until I replaced the front cable.

When I got the new front cable I installed it without my Bubba piece, and adjusted the shoes per the shop manual. The park brake adjusted up just fine. I cleaned and lubed the wheel the cable rides on, and lubed the brake handle assembly too. New brake hardware, new front and rear cable, and the parking brake works like the General intended.

Cheers,
Pete

 

Pete, thanks for the reply ! When replacing the rear loop parking brake cable, how hard was it to retract the spring where the cable attaches to the parking brake lever on the backing plate of the wheel. How hard was it to replace the cable going to the pull handle? Thanks

 

Sorry I can't answer the first part of your question as the rear cable was done by the shop that did the rear suspension, trailing arms, bearings, spring, and park brake. They did it in just a few minutes, so it can't be that hard.

The front cable going to the pull handle or lever, wasn't very hard for me. I had the interior partially apart to replace the clock in the center gauge cluster. Removing the center piece between the seats requires you removal of a bolt hidden by the center "glove box". I pulled the entire lid assembly, but I think it would be easier to reach in from the jack compartment to get to the bolt. It's either 7/8 or 1/2 I think.

When the center piece between the seats is out, you can remove the lever assembly, four bolts I think. With it loose, you can feed the old cable out of it. There is a grommet where the cable passes through the floor that you have to work the cable end through, both removing the old and installing the new. Not hard, just one of those little jobs you have to fiddle with until it goes through. I think you have to remove the pulley too, but that's just a nut and bolt job. With the pulley out it's easy to route the cable and to clean the pulley pivot bolt.

The replacement cable I bought was slightly larger diameter than the original, so I had to enlarge the holes it passes through on the lever piece and on the frame that holds the lever. I think I used a rat-tail file to do that. Rather than return the cable, I figured that being slightly larger diameter, it might be stronger.

With the new cables in, the adjustment, following the shop manual, was easy, and the park brake works just fine. It'll hold the car on a hill, which is about all these brakes can be expected to do.

Like so many things on these cars, it isn't hard to do, it is just a bit of a PITA to get to everything.

I hope this helps,
Pete

 

It wasn't a problem when I installed the new cables, pretty easy.