Fusible links
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: holland pa
replacing them is pretty straight forward but make sure you get a good connection or you will fry the new fuse! what exactly is the problem you are having? by good connection i mean strip the wiring from the bad link (cut it out) and strip the ends of the new fusible link and with a crimping tool buy a butt connector (available at most auto parts stores or radio shacks) insert the bare wire into the butt connectors (male and female) and crimp, now just plug in the new fusible link and you should be good to go.
........................................ ...chris
........................................ ...chris
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Here is one of the fusible links.This one is 1 of 2 for the ammeter and is under the wiper motor.First pic is with black plastic over the crimp connectors and second pic is with black plastic removed.The actual fusible link is the orange wire.You can see by the melting its been hot before.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 8
From: COOKEVILLE TN
Here is one of the fusible links.This one is 1 of 2 for the ammeter and is under the wiper motor.First pic is with black plastic over the crimp connectors and second pic is with black plastic removed.The actual fusible link is the orange wire.You can see by the melting its been hot before.
Got the same one that looks like this one !
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: holland pa
and your new one may not look like this it may be flatter, do you have any service manuals for your car? you can go to autozone.com and check their "repair guide" link and see if they can walk you through the swap.
........................................ chris
........................................ chris
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Here 2 more that you should have.In this pic of the horn relay the 2 wires on the left are fusible links.One is orange and one is black...follow the wire down and you can see the black plastic pieces that cover the wire crimps.The orange one in this pic is the other of the 2 that protect the ammeter.
Here is another pic of the same that might be clearer.
Here is another pic of the same that might be clearer.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 19, 2008 at 01:45 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 8
From: COOKEVILLE TN
replacing them is pretty straight forward but make sure you get a good connection or you will fry the new fuse! what exactly is the problem you are having? by good connection i mean strip the wiring from the bad link (cut it out) and strip the ends of the new fusible link and with a crimping tool buy a butt connector (available at most auto parts stores or radio shacks) insert the bare wire into the butt connectors (male and female) and crimp, now just plug in the new fusible link and you should be good to go.
........................................ ...chris
........................................ ...chris
Problem is.....I put on a new Solenoid and got the (R) and the (S) switched ( What a dumb #ss ) not sure of the damage,looks like a fried fusible link below the wiper motor ! I didn't see a fusible link on the starter.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 8
From: COOKEVILLE TN
Here 2 more that you should have.In this pic of the horn relay the 2 wires on the left are fusible links.One is orange and one is black...follow the wire down and you can see the black plastic pieces that cover the wire crimps.The orange one in this pic is the other of the 2 that protect the ammeter.
Here is another pic of the same that might be clearer.
Here is another pic of the same that might be clearer.
I mean mine looks fried like this one ( or is this one OK? ) ! Any pics of the one at the starter?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
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From: COOKEVILLE TN
Yeah I have the assembly manual, Corvette repair ( like Chilton ) manual & Dr.Rebuild Wiring Diagram!
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
What happened when you did this? It should have just engaged the starter when you turned the key to the on position.I've never tried this but I dont think it would burn a link for the alternator.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
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From: COOKEVILLE TN
It cranked a couple of times and then nothing, I thought the switch went out. So instead of dropping the steering wheel and installing a new switch I used a remote switch I had from an old Z-28, it would crank and crank but not start!
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
By having it hooked up backwards you were using the small resitance wire to the possitive side of the coil to engage the starter solenoid.You might have burned it in two.With the key on check the positive side of the coil for 12 volts.So at this point what is going on? Engine will not crank or wont fire while cranking?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 8
From: COOKEVILLE TN
By having it hooked up backwards you were using the small resitance wire to the possitive side of the coil to engage the starter solenoid.You might have burned it in two.With the key on check the positive side of the coil for 12 volts.So at this point what is going on? Engine will not crank or wont fire while cranking?
I can't check it right now, I'm in the process of putting on a new Zoom Flexplate. I've got something going on with the starter/flexplate.Sometimes the starter makes an awful grinding noise,the teeth look OK, I put a mini starter on and it make the same noise.....Hopefully get Flexplate on this weekend !
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 8
From: COOKEVILLE TN
By having it hooked up backwards you were using the small resitance wire to the possitive side of the coil to engage the starter solenoid.You might have burned it in two.With the key on check the positive side of the coil for 12 volts.So at this point what is going on? Engine will not crank or wont fire while cranking?
Looks like nothing was damaged.....Got the new Zoom flexplate on and put the new mini-starter back on. Spliced in a fusible link at the starter ( it was missing ) Now it's starting, but when you start it, it cranks a few revolutions and then the solenoid kicks outs. Is this a bad starter? It's almost new ( maybe 20 starts on it )
THANX !
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I'm not that familiar with a mini-starter but I would think as long as the purple wire has a solid 12 volts on it the solenoid should stay in.Solid 12v meaning full amperage...if the battery is low or the connection is poor the solenoid might kick out.There is a point where the current required to turn the starter armature over can starve the solenoid and it will kick out.Make sure you have a good battery and good connections at the battery and at the frame ground just under the battery box and of coarse at the solenoid pos. connection.You also need the purple to be suppling good current.If you want to take the purple out of the equation run a temporary wire in place of the purple and touch just touch the end opposite the solenoid to the pos. battery connection and see if the solenoid still kicks out.Just make sure your trans is in neutral or park because this will be bypassing the safety switch.
Here are a couple more pics of fusible links. The fusible link in both pics is the short brown wire between the large black plastic crimp connectors. If the link burns inside the brown wire it will stretch.
Here are a couple more pics of fusible links. The fusible link in both pics is the short brown wire between the large black plastic crimp connectors. If the link burns inside the brown wire it will stretch.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Sep 18, 2010 at 10:08 PM.
