Motive power bleeder question
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
I use 15 psi, pump it up while bleeding to keep the pressure there. The chains are worthless, unless you got a steel plate adapter. Use a flat piece of wood and a big C clamp. pressure test it first w/no fluid in the Motive reservoir. C.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Aug 21, 2008 at 04:19 AM. Reason: Motive
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
The plastic plate provided is almost worthless because it flexes and allows leaks unless you use a thick piece of wood and a couple of C-clamps.
When I used mine the master cylinder filled with brake fluid, meaning that when I finished and removed the plate there was fluid everywhere. Put lots of rags under the m/c because you will spill fluid the first time you use it (and probably all other times if you're like me).
It's a good system when it works though, but the easy spillage is one of the main reasons why I'm switching to silicone brake fluid after my chassis resto.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
I have one.... good concept, crappy clamping design. After mine leaked under pressure and sprayed brake fluid all over the damn car I did it differently.
I fill the res. with fluid and just use the Motive unit to apply air pressure to the system. That way you don't have that darn thing full of fluid that'll spray the stuff all over in case something lets go and there's nothing dripping from it either. Sure you have to be cautious of how much fluid you use so you don't empty the res. but there's allot in there. I've done it several times and it works perfectly.
I fill the res. with fluid and just use the Motive unit to apply air pressure to the system. That way you don't have that darn thing full of fluid that'll spray the stuff all over in case something lets go and there's nothing dripping from it either. Sure you have to be cautious of how much fluid you use so you don't empty the res. but there's allot in there. I've done it several times and it works perfectly.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 23
From: Kawartha Lakes and PEC, Ontario
I always slit a garbage bag open and tarp the left fender with it just in case the unthinkable happens. The chains are junk. C-clamp works great.
As for leaking when you remove the plate from the m/c....when you're done bleeding, tip the Motive bottle so the pickup is not submerged in fluid and bleed a little fluid from a rear caliper and a little from a front. that lowers the fluid level in the m/c and no spillage.
As for leaking when you remove the plate from the m/c....when you're done bleeding, tip the Motive bottle so the pickup is not submerged in fluid and bleed a little fluid from a rear caliper and a little from a front. that lowers the fluid level in the m/c and no spillage.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
From: Cary Illinois
I just went through this yesterday. Replaced flex lines with braided SS then bought a Motive to bleed the system. I actually used the chains but then clamped it too based on suggestions here. 1st time, no air leaks 
I then pumped it up to 15 PSI (I guessed because I didn't have any directions on our C3's handy) and had the whole car done in about 20 minutes. I know some people have had problems using the pressure bleeder, but it worked like a charm for me.
Q
I then pumped it up to 15 PSI (I guessed because I didn't have any directions on our C3's handy) and had the whole car done in about 20 minutes. I know some people have had problems using the pressure bleeder, but it worked like a charm for me.
Q
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,708
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I noticed two things from the various posts: A pretty wide range of pressures from 15 to 90 PSI (though the high pressure, professional units do have a barrier between the air and the fluid) and the fact that it works well except for the stock clamp setup.
I tried mine out last night. I ended up taking Ben's suggestion and did it without adding fluid to the pump. I did this partly because I didn't have too much time and partly because I didn't want to deal with brake fluid spray.
It took a couple of tries to seat the plate on the MC. I used a six inch long 2 X 4 on top of the plate and found that 2 C-clamps worked better than one. Once I got a good seal, I found that one of the stock hose clamps leaked at 7 PSI. I didn't have enough daylight to cut off the stock clamp and replace it with a hose clamp, so i went ahead ant tired it at 7 PSI.
Although the flow was quite slow, it did work fairly well. I probably moved half a reservoir through the front and back in about 15 minutes. You definately have to really watch the fluid level in the reservoir if you do it this way.
Again, thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll probably finnish up tonight and post the final results.
I tried mine out last night. I ended up taking Ben's suggestion and did it without adding fluid to the pump. I did this partly because I didn't have too much time and partly because I didn't want to deal with brake fluid spray.
It took a couple of tries to seat the plate on the MC. I used a six inch long 2 X 4 on top of the plate and found that 2 C-clamps worked better than one. Once I got a good seal, I found that one of the stock hose clamps leaked at 7 PSI. I didn't have enough daylight to cut off the stock clamp and replace it with a hose clamp, so i went ahead ant tired it at 7 PSI.
Although the flow was quite slow, it did work fairly well. I probably moved half a reservoir through the front and back in about 15 minutes. You definately have to really watch the fluid level in the reservoir if you do it this way.
Again, thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll probably finnish up tonight and post the final results.