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Brake-Shield Bolt removal

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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Brake-Shield Bolt removal

OK.....So I'm going to remove and replace one of the brake shields on my front end....Should be easy enough....Get new part, but naturally there's a problem. The largest of the three bolts that hold the shield on is so rusted that even multiple blasts of PB and many a blow with the ratchet and hammer have not produced anything but a bolt that is starting to round off. I have been told that using a propane torch and heating the head of the bolt may finally loosen it....Any suggestions to make sure I do this properly? As always, thanks for the input
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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If I remember correctly I used an impact wrench. It looked like there was corrosion (likely) or some sort of sealer on the threads.



Rick B.
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 79SharkMan
OK.....So I'm going to remove and replace one of the brake shields on my front end....Should be easy enough....Get new part, but naturally there's a problem. The largest of the three bolts that hold the shield on is so rusted that even multiple blasts of PB and many a blow with the ratchet and hammer have not produced anything but a bolt that is starting to round off. I have been told that using a propane torch and heating the head of the bolt may finally loosen it....Any suggestions to make sure I do this properly? As always, thanks for the input

You can 'sweat' the penetrating oil into the threading by heating up the bolt with a torch or something, and then spraying it with penetrant. It'll pull that oil in and it'll work with the deeper threads.

If the bolt head is starting to round, I usually switch to a metric 6 point socket that I have to tap on the head of the bolt with a hammer. It's a tight fit so rounding is unlikely unless the bolt is chemically welded to the knuckle. Once you get the socket tapped on, use a breaker bar to finally break it loose.

If neither of those work, get back with us. If it's starting to round at all, make sure you are NOT using a 12 point socket.
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
You can 'sweat' the penetrating oil into the threading by heating up the bolt with a torch or something, and then spraying it with penetrant. It'll pull that oil in and it'll work with the deeper threads.

If the bolt head is starting to round, I usually switch to a metric 6 point socket that I have to tap on the head of the bolt with a hammer. It's a tight fit so rounding is unlikely unless the bolt is chemically welded to the knuckle. Once you get the socket tapped on, use a breaker bar to finally break it loose.

If neither of those work, get back with us. If it's starting to round at all, make sure you are NOT using a 12 point socket.
I can't believe I didn't think of that one first....I should probably try to switch to a 6pt metric first before trying something that is definitely more dangerous (aka: setting myself/garage/car) on fire
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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Hey if none of that works they have a punch that goes over the nut and you hit it with A hammer and sometimes that does it .Im getting old and dont remember what its called but there out there somewhere.
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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Well, I just realized that I already was using a 6pt metric socket to try to remove that @#$% bolt....It was a great suggestion by DurangoBoy. I guess I need to look more in to the propane-torch technique....Any suggestions about the proper way to do this?
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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Once the head rounds off and your choices are limited.... I have been succesful using a chissel. Pound it into the head to get a good bite then hit it at an angle to spin the bolt. The shock of the hammering usually breaks it free.

Good Luck
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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Does anyone know what the torque on that bolt is?

charlie
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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One trick to stubborm bolts is to hit it head on with a hammer. The shock can break it free.

Also did you remove the locking tabs on the sides of the bolt???
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 427V8
One trick to stubborm bolts is to hit it head on with a hammer. The shock can break it free.

Also did you remove the locking tabs on the sides of the bolt???
Yea, I was able to at least get those tabs to move.....Now I'm wondering how to replace the bolt once I finally get it off...I mean, is a 15/16" bolt just available anywhere? I mean, one that'll be good/strong enough for automotive uses, anyway.....I cannot believe how much time this ONE bolt removal is costing me...Ah, the world of classic cars!
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 12:58 PM
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I haven't tried this but I have this set in my tool box...just in case

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P

LL&P
Tom1701
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 01:45 PM
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If you have an air or electric impact wrench and a good fitting 6 point impact socket, spray it down good with pb blaster, give it 4 or 5 raps with the impact then stop, give it 4 or 5 more than stop. Keep repeating until it starts to move then get the ratchet and screw it back in then back it out till it starts to get tight. Keep screwing it in then backing it out while spraying it until it's out. Patience is the key here because you don't want to get in a hurry and have it snap off half way out.
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