My Hurst shifter has never done right since I got the car. It is often hard to find the 1-2 gate when it's in the 3-4 gate. Going from 2 to 3 is not a problem, but when I stop it's often hard to get it lined up side to side to go back into 1 from 4. I got under the car last night and 2 of the 3 rods are very tight, but the rod that goes to the reverse lever is very loose, becuase the bushing is practically non existant. I think I'm right saying it's the reverse rod. It goes toe the lever furthest back on my BW ST10 trans. My question is, if that's the reverse rod, then how would that affect the problems I've described? Also, I thought Hurst shifters were supposed to have short throws. Mine does not. In fact my buddy after driving his 66 with a stock shifter commented on how long hte throw was compared to his.

 

All the pieces have numbers on them. If you can check them against the instruction sheet you may find that you have some wrong parts. They all need to be right for the shifter to work properly. Check that first. I would also get a bushing /clip kit and adjust the shifter to see if it helps.

-Mark.

 

No instruction sheet, The shifter was on the car when I bought it and I didn't get any paperwork to go with it.

 

You may be able to download the instruction sheets from the Hurst web site. I have done that in the past. You will need the "Shifter" instructions and the "installation pack" instructions to get all the part numbers.

-Mark.

 

thanks, I think I will get bushing/clip kit you are talking about and install that as a start, and then go from there.

 

C3 4ME - I have Hurst Competition Plus shifters in all 3 on my Vettes and absolutely love them. I think you have 3 issues - one, the bushings which if worn, will cause the linkage to be sloppy & mis-aligned. The 2nd issue is all 3 of the shifter arm need to be adjusted correctly. And number 3, the long shift or throw is because of the placement of the shifter arm in the shift lever on the tranny.

The first issue has been addressed here. The adjustment issue is relatively eash. First, put the tranny in nuetral then remove all 3 shift arms from the levers - you have to do this to replace the bushings anyway. Using a 1/4 & 2 1/2" bolt, align the shifter. There is a notch at the bottom of the shifter that lines up the shifter housing with the shifter levers in the shifter. The kit comes with a plastic gauge but I find the bolt works better. With all shifter locked in place, adjust each arm until the arm aligns with the hole in the lever on the tranny. If you can't pull the bolt out - you have one or more adjusted too tight.

3rd issue - the long throw. Each one of my tranny levers had 2 holes. The one closer to the tranny gives you a shorter throw. Your maybe installed inthe lower holes giving you a longer throw.

Hope this helps a bit.

John

 

Vetteman, thanks that's exacty the info I need. I will get new bushings ordered and as you suggested adjust the linkages when I go to replace the bushings. I may try them in the other holes for the shorter throws to see how I like it.

 

Great! Glad to help.

I just found my installation instructions. I can scan it & email it to you if you PM your email address.

I scanned in 2 Hurst pages. If anyone else needs a copy of the Install page, PM your email address & I will send it off to you.

John

 

The shifter pak comes in nylon or metal bushings any preference either way?

 

MY preference would be the brass/bronze bushing- they last a long time with a little bit of oil on them.

I'm also looking at making some new arms and seeing if I can get the throw even shorter than it already is.

 

Vegas69 - the 2 installation kits I purchased from Summit Racing last winter (for a 69 & 78) only had plastic bushings. Same for the Kit I purchased several years ago for my 76. Haven't seen metal bushings.

Metal sure would be a bonus!

John

 

I adjusted the rods last night but have a question. I used an allen wrench smaller than 1/4", so it wasn't a tight fit. Will that make the adustment not exactly right? It seems to shift fine to me as it is, so maybe I just leave well enough alone.

 

You should be fine. The main idea is to line all the levers up and keep them in the neutral position while the rods are adjusted.

cc

 

Close enough! I wouldn't mess with it unless you saw/felt a problem with it!

John

 

I don't think changing the arms is going to affect the throw. The only thing that will change the throw is the effective length of the levers.

 

I am almost positive that if you were to buy a new Comp. + shifter with the necessary installation kit you will find the tool that they include which is nothing more then a rod that has the shape of an allen wrench, so if you used an allen wrench you already know that it works just as good. If you can finagle the installation instructions from someplace/someone and read them and follow it you can almost custom tailor your shifter, the difference will make you a beleiver. A badly adjusted shifter will make you crazy ! They used to offer a "rebuild" service, and maybe still do ? Peace,,,Moosie

 

BTW, Vegas 69, I got what was called a Hurst Pit Pack from my local speed shop and it had the metal bushings and clips. If you need a part #, PM me and I'll get it out the tool box and find the #. I'll be curious to see how much more the shifter will buzz at highway speeds. I've read that the nylon bushings are good for keeping the shifter quiet.

 

You can hear the shifter buzz in this short video as the revs approach 3500 rpm. I found that my fan & fan clutch were mounted slightly off center by the PO. I replaced my water pump and discovered this. Now it's centered, no vibration and no shifter buzz now. I'll have to look closer next time I'm under the Vette to see which bushings I have. My Hurst was in the Vette when I bought it. I would say if everything is tight there shouldn't be any buzz.
Glenn

 

Moosie, I bought one about a year ago and it came with a nylon alignment tool. Shaped like an allen wrench but round on 2 sides and flat on the other 2.

cc