Electrical question
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Electrical question
Is there a cut-out type of switch on the clutch that won't let the starter motor engage unless the clutch is depressed on my 1970? Recently, I have gone out to the garage a few times and turned the key and nothing happened. The couple of times it has happened so far, I have pumped the clutch a few times, and then the starter behaves normally. So, if there is such a switch, could this be sticky and/or not adjusted properly and be causing this situation?
Thanks,
PK
Thanks,
PK
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
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But I have also seen the pumping action physically move the engine which could move a wire which could make a connection.One other possibility is the engine could be grounding through the clutch Z bar and your pumping action makes the ground.Just some thoughts.You could temporarily put a jumper on your clutch safety switch and drive it a couple days and see if that cures the problem,if so its not the grounding issues I described.(Remember if you do the jumper your car will start in gear with the clutch engaged.)
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Awesome guys! I think I want to try the jumper first to see what happens. I understand that this will defeat the safety feature while installed. If I am seeing the picture correctly, the clutch pedal arm is to the right of the picture with the link attached to it, and appears to be in the fully depressed position. That link crosses over what looks to be the brake light switch, and attaches to the clutch cut out switch on the left side of the picture. Looks like I would just hook the two ends of the jumper to each of the two connectors that will be attached to the two tangs I see in the picture. For clarity, this assumes that the switch is supposed to be closed (connected) when the clutch is depressed and open when it is not. Sounds simple enough from my office chair. Let me know if I have this wrong.
Thanks,
PK
Thanks,
PK
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From: Ann Arbor Michigan
If I am seeing the picture correctly, the clutch pedal arm is to the right of the picture with the link attached to it, and appears to be in the fully depressed position. That link crosses over what looks to be the brake light switch, and attaches to the clutch cut out switch on the left side of the picture. Looks like I would just hook the two ends of the jumper to each of the two connectors that will be attached to the two tangs I see in the picture. For clarity, this assumes that the switch is supposed to be closed (connected) when the clutch is depressed and open when it is not. Sounds simple enough from my office chair. Let me know if I have this wrong.
Thanks,
PK
Thanks,
PK
You are correct, the pedals are depressed. Switch is normally open and closes when the pedal is pushed. As you said, jumper the 2 purple wire together and give it a go.
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Sounds good. One other thought, you say "large purple wires". Do these things have any substantial amperage going through them? The reason I ask is that the jumpers I have at home are real thin wire, like maybe 20 gauge. I walked down the street to the local Radio Shack, and they had heavier gauge wire jumpers, but the wire was 30 inches long. If this has a lot of amperage, I am thinking at very least I should use 2 of the little jumpers, or maybe make up a heavier gauge jumper for the job. Any thoughts?
PK
PK
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
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GM calls the standard trans switch a couple things and there are probably more. transmission safety starting switch,clutch operated neutral start switch
The auto trans switch is usual referred to as the neutral safety switch but GM also refers to it as transmission safety starting switch,neutral switch,neutral safety backing lamp seat belt wiring switch and the neutral & backing lamp switch.
The auto trans switch is usual referred to as the neutral safety switch but GM also refers to it as transmission safety starting switch,neutral switch,neutral safety backing lamp seat belt wiring switch and the neutral & backing lamp switch.
Le Mans Master
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Sounds good. One other thought, you say "large purple wires". Do these things have any substantial amperage going through them? The reason I ask is that the jumpers I have at home are real thin wire, like maybe 20 gauge. I walked down the street to the local Radio Shack, and they had heavier gauge wire jumpers, but the wire was 30 inches long. If this has a lot of amperage, I am thinking at very least I should use 2 of the little jumpers, or maybe make up a heavier gauge jumper for the job. Any thoughts?
PK
PK
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Will do. Thanks for all the help. I tried to get my big *** under there last night with the car in the garage with no luck at all. I will have to wait until I can put the car in the driveway so that I can open the door all the way. Tomorrow night is the earliest that could happen. I'll let you know how it works out!
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
OK, Friday night, I made the special jumper, 12 gage wire, 12 inches long. Sunday, I tried to take the seat out, the first bolt I tried was horribly stripped, the first sign that Bubba has taken a turn with a wrench on my car. I also noticed that one of the bolts is missing, so I got a new addition to my "winter projects" list for the car and abandoned the effort for right now. Anyway, with the door wide open, I did manage to get my oversized, beer-and-cheeseburger-bloated body in the car upside-down and pulled the connector off the switch. I jumped it and so far, the starter problems are gone. I'll give it another few days for more cold starts etc., but my confidence that the switch is the problem is on the rise.
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Actually, until I bought this car, I never owned a manual where you did have to depress the clutch to start! Most of the older manual cars I have owned were VWs, they don't have a cutout on the clutch. The prior C3 I owned was heavily Bubbatized such that I didn't have to worry about being in reverse to get my key back, and thus, no real need for the clutch cutout. Of course, when I bought that car, you could start the car without the key for the pinnacle of convenience, some people don't appreciate that kind of modification though. It's still kind of surprising to me now when I open the door and a light comes on, amazing!
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
The problem of turning the key and having nothing happen evaporated beginning Saturday when I jumped the switch, so I am convinced the switch is the problem and want to replace it. I looked at Eckler's online yesterday and couldn't find it. I am sure I will find one, but if anyone knows who has it and can easily point me there, I would appreciate it.
Thanks for all the help!
PK
Thanks for all the help!
PK
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I thought I saw it on the Wilcox site the other day but must have been wrong,Volunteer says they have it.
http://www.volvette.com/EL63K.html
http://www.volvette.com/EL63K.html
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St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Thanks, that is it. Yesterday I only checked Ecklers, I didn't get around to Willcox or Mid-America because I left a little early to take my car out for a ride! $60, ouch! I'll check the other two to see if they have it cheaper, but I doubt it. Oh well, I need the part. I don't feel like driving around with the safety features disabled.