Rear suspension help
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
Rear suspension help
Hey Guys, its been a long day. One broken leaf spring bolt in the rear end housing, and the front trailing arm bolts are in a bad way.
The broken bolt i assume will need to be drilled out and have a helicoil put in.
Is a saws-all and torch the only way to get the front bolts out?Either that or i will cut the hell out of them and buy new? I am out of practice on working on old cars. Is it cheaper to rebuild the old? or buy a new assembly?
The broken bolt i assume will need to be drilled out and have a helicoil put in.
Is a saws-all and torch the only way to get the front bolts out?Either that or i will cut the hell out of them and buy new? I am out of practice on working on old cars. Is it cheaper to rebuild the old? or buy a new assembly?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
The front T/A bolts can be a beeotch. Most of the time a Sawzall and some good blades are the only way to get them out. Torch is going to destroy something you want to keep (like the car?) Cut thru the shims and the bolt and they come out. The bolts rust into the center of the bushings. Put some new bushings in (takes a flare tool and a press), then get the Stainless bolts and shims from Van Steel or VB&P.
The broken bolt in the housing will need to be drilled out. If it's a rear most bolt you might be able to soak it with some good penetrating oil and get it out. If it's a forward bolt, watch out how deep you drill. Those holes go right into the differential. Too deep and it'll leak. It'll all depend on how lucky you are.
The broken bolt in the housing will need to be drilled out. If it's a rear most bolt you might be able to soak it with some good penetrating oil and get it out. If it's a forward bolt, watch out how deep you drill. Those holes go right into the differential. Too deep and it'll leak. It'll all depend on how lucky you are.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
With a press or a spindle knocker. The bearings are pressed onto the spindle - both inner and outer. After you remove the spindle flange, you will see an oil seal. Underneath that oil seal is the inner bearing. That inner bearing is preventing the spindle from pulling out of the assembly. You either have to press the spindle off of that bearing, or use a spindle knocker and smack the spindle free from that inner bearing until it pops loose. You use a bearing splitter to remove the outer bearing once the spindle is out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
If you broke the bolt there should be no torque holding it in. If there's no torque holding it in, it should turn relatively easily. If you cut a nice fat slot in the remaining stud, with a dremmel or like, you might be able to turn it out by hand. If it's broken below the lip, you can drill and pound in a slightly larger junk phillips and turn. with no torque, it should turn relatively easily. Not to rub it in,, but when i replaced my spring i used new grade 8's.. the torque on these is 70ft/lbs 
I didn't like torquing them last week. no like. 
Unless you broke it while removing it,, in which case, I would just buy a new cover, they're cheap.
I didn't like torquing them last week. no like. Unless you broke it while removing it,, in which case, I would just buy a new cover, they're cheap.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Nov 16, 2008 at 06:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
Yes the bolt broke from removing it. So i guess i will start looking for a new cover. Thank you for the replies everyone, these cars are a bit complicated on the back end to work on.
Thank Goodness its winter, i have 6 months to work on it lolol.
Thank Goodness its winter, i have 6 months to work on it lolol.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
Good luck with the repairs
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Medina Ohio
I also removed the trailing arms off my "80", spend a little money and get good "long" sawsall blades. I found a little shop in PA. called Bears. they rebuild TA's. Excanged my old rusted trailing arms and got rebuilt ones. Powder coated completely rebuilt and simply re installed them in my car. If you want more info on Bears I get it for you.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: NY
i find it helpful to spray all parts to be worked on with PB Blaster a week prior to and every night until i get to it. It really helps loosen things up. It doesnt prevent breakage but it makes life a bit easier.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
Yes we sprayed the heck out of everything lol. Most of it came apart real well, just the rust in the hard to get areas. I will go buy or rent a saws all and try to find some 8" long hack saw blades. see what i come up with. After several hours of lube and prying, i was able to get the bolts to turn and the shims loose.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 5
From: punta gorda florida
rear sus
do you have access to a drill press you can set the rear end cover on one and carefully drill out most of the bolt ck your depth on another hole so you dont go to deep I also use the stuff called aerokroil penetrant ck it out on line it some great stuff I am doing the rear suspension on my 69 now too and have been able to get all the bolts out no problem impact gun help that too Im also doing the diff carries bushing too I ahve parts every were besure to be paitent and of course gary is my mentor he always give you the right way to do it
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
Yes this is not a problem, i have access to a couple of friends with machine shops, so the bolt removal will not be a problem. The T/A removal will be some fun though.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I sprayed my TA bolts with PB blaster for a few days and then used an air hammer. One side popped right out. The other side I had to hammer at for 20 minutes or so but it eventually came out. Give it a try if you have one.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
I also removed the trailing arms off my "80", spend a little money and get good "long" sawsall blades. I found a little shop in PA. called Bears. they rebuild TA's. Excanged my old rusted trailing arms and got rebuilt ones. Powder coated completely rebuilt and simply re installed them in my car. If you want more info on Bears I get it for you.
Thanks again for all the input on this thread, this is how we get things done on this site. I appreciate all the help.
Sheldon
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
Well lesson learned.I bought a sawsall and the long blades. HUGE TIP. get every thing loose enough to get the shims out, once they are out the bolts are easy to cut. 15 min a side after the shims are out.Now to ship them off for rebuilding.
Thanks for all the help guys..
Thanks for all the help guys..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Good show! I did my T/A's last winter. Took the nuts off, used a long brass drift and tapped them out. But then again, I've been around my vette since 1971 (just bought it the end of '06) and I KNOW it hasn't been in the rain or snow since 1974. Before that, if it was raining it went, and stayed home all winter except for 1973. No rust anywhere on anything.