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In the last days I've been in the task of eliminating cabin Heat. Sealed the fender to cowl union through the vent flapper (also fixed) in the kick panels as indicatated here in one o the tips section. Also as my heater core was leaking I by passed it so no hot water there. Also tampered the vent that comes back from the radio i9n the center of the console. I put a weather strip en the top in order to make it seal when hood closes preventing hot air from the engine comingo to the cowl and then to the cabin. All this didn't help much (hot air is still coming through the kick panel area)!!!! The only thing i found is still making hot air to get to the cowl is the cowl induction system. In my car I have a open element filter so actually the cowl induction is non functional. So my question is a good idea to try seal it with some foam or sealant? Or will this make another system to fail?
Note: the floor is also insulated.
love that red green show on PBS. duct tape fixes everything!! but back to the real thread...i was really just being smart. heat in the cabin of these cars is always there. it unevitable and you will probably never get it out completely.
to remove most of it guys have been putting dynamat, and other sticky back, heat type sheets under the carpet. im sure there are items to use then dynamat for heat but thats similar to construction.
You should differentiate between two types of heat transfer methods : radiation transfer and conduction transfer, when it comes to cabin heat, we are talking about radiation transfer from exhaust/engine to cabin, and then a conductive transfer from cabin floor to you, and you just cannot fight that heat by putting things like dynamat and reflectix from the inside, because their reflective foil is designed to "reflect" the radiant heat, not the "conductive" heat. So the best method is to use a radiant heat shield from "outside" , like on the firewall and down to the transmission tunnel and under the seat floors, and use some conductive heat shield inside the cabin which could be some sort of foam liner.
At least that how the new cars are equipped with from the factory.
. . . there's a great thread (with pics) from someone who found leakage on the firewall side where the HVAC "stuff" is. I forget what they used to seal it, but that info is in the thread too.
Also, I seem to remember a thread where the issue was radiant heat transfer to this area, and the poster solved it with some shielding. Again, details were in the thread on vendor, part #'s, etc. for their solution.
Sorry I can't provide links, but maybe you can turn something up with search (I'm hunting myself, but drawing a blank so far).
In all C3s, air circulates through the wiper trough and down each side of the cowl to the kick panel vents. On AC cars, only the passenger side admits air. On non-AC cars, both sides will allow air entry. Replacing the rubber seals on the vent doors will help a little.
actually heat comes from engine comparment, through the cowl and ventilation system. Floor is insulated with some sort of carpet insulation with foil and tar thing i got down here.
actually heat comes from engine comparment, through the cowl and ventilation system. Floor is insulated with some sort of carpet insulation with foil and tar thing i got down here.
I tried once to seal everything from the firewall side, and noticed that a great deal of heat is transfered as a radiant heat from the engine compartment. The stock insulation is only effective as a conductive heat barrier, but nothing will prevent the radiant heat from getting inside, basically GM did nothing to prevent that from happening.
IMHO, getting a radiant heat shield on the outer surface of the cabin will prevent not less than 80% of the heat.
My first thought was why are you worried about heat in the winter, but then I see you're in Buenos Aires. My suggestion is if you have headers, have them ceramic coated, or at least put some wrap on them. It made a very noticeable difference on the inside of my car.
I tried once to seal everything from the firewall side, and noticed that a great deal of heat is transfered as a radiant heat from the engine compartment. The stock insulation is only effective as a conductive heat barrier, but nothing will prevent the radiant heat from getting inside, basically GM did nothing to prevent that from happening.
IMHO, getting a radiant heat shield on the outer surface of the cabin will prevent not less than 80% of the heat.
My 69 has underfloor insulation, from side to side, and down the tranny tunnel. I have a "horse collar" that goes between the top of the trans tunnel and trans. It also has fairly thick and heavy steel heat shields outside that. All came stock from the factory. Couple that with DynaMat Xtreme in the interior, and your radiant, conductive, and any other type of heat are all but gone. As I've said a few times on other threads, my wife takes off her flip-flops and does not get hot feet, in So. AZ in 105* desert heat, with NO A/C!!!
I have heathers and my next though was the ceraqmic wrap. And yes down here we are about to get the hot humid summer!!! with temperatures of 100 degrees. No ac on my car!!!
regarding winter i used the car all of it w/o having to turn on the heat not even once. that was before bypassing the heater core when it started leaking. Next I will duct tape all ventialtion system and see what turns out ahahahha