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power windows i assume? the spring that assist the power wind. motor may be broken.
you may be able to grab the window with you hands and pull up on it while pressing the switch up. if not you will have to remove the door panel and assist it that way until you can repair it. also the gear teeh may be stripped at the bottom. it the motor running when you try to go up with it?
Get the side panels off and swap the switches in the wiring and see if the symptoms change sides. Then you'll know if you need a new switch or not. Willcox has them for a good price and mine have lasted great.
First I would get my can of wd-40 out and squirt it into the window switch and actuate it numerous times to see if possibly there might be something in the contacts after that I would pull the door panel and check voltage to both sides of the connector on the motor
Also some of these windows bind at the bottom and at the top due to inner door panel flex or if the regulator lower brace breaks.Sometimes if you rap on the bottom of the door a few times and then do a rap and push the button to go up you can get it to move-but it will probably bind again when it goes to the bottom the next time.If you do get it to move by rapping it dont let it go all the way to bottom again until you get it fixed.
it has power going down but when I hit up there is no noise no clicking so I don't think its a spring or gear teeth... is the switch in the door easy to change?? I really apprieciate all the help guys!!!!!
it has power going down but when I hit up there is no noise no clicking so I don't think its a spring or gear teeth... is the switch in the door easy to change?? I really apprieciate all the help guys!!!!!
Your switch isn't in the door it's in the center console next to the switch from the other side window.
Check the wiring in the bellows between the body and door.I have had conductors fatigue and break on several GM vehicles of this vintage.Chances are the motor is near the end of its life,tap it with a hammer or give the door a good slam,it may come back to life.
Check the wiring in the bellows between the body and door.I have had conductors fatigue and break on several GM vehicles of this vintage.Chances are the motor is near the end of its life,tap it with a hammer or give the door a good slam,it may come back to life.
I agree. If your motor turns going down but no response going up it could well be the wiring. They tend to break inside the conduit where the door opens and closes. 30+ years of opening and closing 30+ year old wires will do that. Unplug the rubber sleeve and look inside. If not you need to pull the door panel and start checking. If you apply electricity from your battery to one terminal the window goes up the other it goes down. This will help isolate the problem to the wiring or the motor.
I think the easiest thing to do first would be to connect the wire on the switch to the other switch and see if it works. Meaning if you're having trouble with the drivers side, move the wires to the passenger-side switch. This way you don't have to buy anything yet and can figure out whether the problem is with the switch or in the door. It's the easiest first test.
Most likely it is the switch. An easy way to check it is to sit in the car at night with your garage lights off and your car off except the accessory key switch on. Turn on the inside dome light. Since your switch is working in the down direction your interior lights should dim when you go in that direction. If they don't dim when you go in the up direction pull the switch. It is ALOT easier then pulling the PW motor. GL!
Most likely it is the switch. An easy way to check it is to sit in the car at night with your garage lights off and your car off except the accessory key switch on. Turn on the inside dome light. Since your switch is working in the down direction your interior lights should dim when you go in that direction. If they don't dim when you go in the up direction pull the switch. It is ALOT easier then pulling the PW motor. GL!
I don't think the voltage would drop and the lights would dim if the motor isn't trying to raise the window, so that's not necessarily going to tell you whether the problem is the switch or the motor. If they do go dim, then you know the switch is good, but if they don't go dim then you still don't know whether it's the motor or the switch.
Thanks to all who responded.. outcome after swapping the wiring on the switches.. same thing.. no go up... turned out to be the motor... so lesson learned.. a power window motor can go bad and still work in one direction..new motor in... not to bad of a job... some tight spots... took about 2 hours and a 6 pack of bud light..LOL
Thanks to all who responded.. outcome after swapping the wiring on the switches.. same thing.. no go up... turned out to be the motor... so lesson learned.. a power window motor can go bad and still work in one direction..new motor in... not to bad of a job... some tight spots... took about 2 hours and a 6 pack of bud light..LOL
Just curious-did you check the motor for both directions once it was free from the door?
Just curious-did you check the motor for both directions once it was free from the door?
Today 03:24 PM
I did... just to make sure.. and had it doubled checked here in Pensacola at Leos covettes where I got the new motor.. bought the best one they had for 119.00......