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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 12:17 PM
  #21  
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What is the number stamped on the transmission itself, not the id plate. the Id plate on pass side showed a feb 72 date.
The VIN number would be on the drivers side, horizontal on machine area just about the tranny pan, Should start off 12S5xxxxxThose numbers should match last 9 digits of VIN #
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CCrane72
Iceman, it is possible that your cowl and windshield frame had to be replaced due to rust. If they just took one from another C3 and didn't bother with the VIN you could end up with a mismatch.

Just a thought.

cc

As far as I know your VIN would not make sense for any year Corvette, not just '72.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by IcemanZ06
...I have a 1972 coupe...1Z37K2S413460...From my research the one thing bothering me is the 8th position; the "4". Some sites have it listed as a "4" in that position and some have it as a "5". So which is it?...
5 is the correct car line series code for the '72 models.

... Assembly # 13460 (Feb 72)...
Possible. Last January car was #12661; last February car was #15020 so your consecutive unit number of 13460 would have been assembled in February, 1972.

...trim tag has O23 in the upper right corner (have to double check to make sure it's not a C or G)...
Almost certainly a G for February 23, 1972. The problem is 2/23/72 was a Wednesday and there were only five more working days left that month, including Leap Day. Your #13460 is about 1500 cars from the end of production. Sadly, they could not have produced 1500 cars after yours between 2/23/72 and 2/29/72.

Your #13460 is actually closer to the ending January car of 12661 so the G23 build date seems to be too late in the month for the VIN.

Tis a puzzle for sure.

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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #24  
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Oh, I'm OK with the car and engine. And I did not pay for matching numbers. The car didn't run when I purchased it and noticeable engine work had been done (850 cfm carb, HEI distributor, Xcelerator intake and headers) so I got it dirt cheap. Didn't take much to correct everything and it is running great now!
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 72ragtop
What is the number stamped on the transmission itself, not the id plate. the Id plate on pass side showed a feb 72 date.
The VIN number would be on the drivers side, horizontal on machine area just about the tranny pan, Should start off 12S5xxxxxThose numbers should match last 9 digits of VIN #

thanks, I'll check there!
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
5 is the correct car line series code for the '72 models.



Possible. Last January car was #12661; last February car was #15020 so your consecutive unit number of 13460 would have been assembled in February, 1972.



Almost certainly a G for February 23, 1972. The problem is 2/23/72 was a Wednesday and there were only five more working days left that month, including Leap Day. Your #13460 is about 1500 cars from the end of production. Sadly, they could not have produced 1500 cars after yours between 2/23/72 and 2/29/72.

Your #13460 is actually closer to the ending January car of 12661 so the G23 build date seems to be too late in the month for the VIN.

Tis a puzzle for sure.


yep, "tis a puzzle" indeed! Amazing how little history there is on this car and how little is original to recreate it from. I'm really dredding pulling the gas tank especially since the build sheet might not even be there but it's starting to look like the only way.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 11:25 PM
  #27  
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IcemanZ06, I ran your VIN through 2 VIN decoders and this is what came up:

1972 Chevrolet Corvette 2-Door Coupe
1 Line Chevrolet
Z Model Corvette
37 Body 2-Door Coupe
K Engine V8 350 CID 1-4BBL - 200 HP
2 Year 1972
S Assembly St. Louis, Missouri
413460 Serial 413460

According to 2 decoder web sites that I looked at the 8th position is simply part of the serial number and does not designate a particular make. However, one site stated that "Some production sequence numbers start with a special number, the ZR1 starts with 800001".
Another site indicated that 1973 Corvettes used 4 as the first digit of the serial number.
Is there any chance the 6th digit is a 3 instead of a 2?

If so, I still think you may have a 1973 cowl and windshield frame.

cc

Last edited by CCrane65; Jan 20, 2009 at 11:45 PM. Reason: update information
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 12:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CCrane72

If so, I still think you may have a 1973 cowl and windshield frame.

cc
There is no K engine designator in 1973- or any other year C3.other than '72.

Last edited by Mike Ward; Jan 21, 2009 at 07:40 AM. Reason: missed key phrase
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 12:16 AM
  #29  
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K is the code for the base engine in 1972.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 05:50 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
There is no K engine designator in 1973- or any other year C3.


It is in fact a "2". the only number that's odd or doesnt match up is the "4" in the 8th position.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 07:40 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Frogday
K is the code for the base engine in 1972.

Oops, I re-read my post above and realize that I left out a critical few words.

Meant to say: There is no K engine designator in 1973- or any other year C3 other than '72.

My meaning was that this VIN tag cannot have been transplanted from any other year Corvette due to the combination of engine designator and year designator.

Thanks for the catch.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Oops, I re-read my post above and realize that I left out a critical few words.

Meant to say: There is no K engine designator in 1973- or any other year C3 other than '72.

My meaning was that this VIN tag cannot have been transplanted from any other year Corvette due to the combination of engine designator and year designator.

Thanks for the catch.

Mike, yeah, I did see that the base engine designator was a J in 73.

So it has to be correct since the only thing different is the first character of the serial number. But the only way to verify it is to match it up to any of the other VIN codes on the frame. If that matches we have an oddball that I'm sure the NCRS folks wold love to see.

cc
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
And the relevance to this thread is what? The OP has an 'illegal' VIN tag, he's not trying to get into judging.
Long as the title matches the vin tag, and both look legit, and you have tag, title insurance, I would buy the car in a second, if in the market, I honestly fail to understand the need for the thread, except to say it's fishing for fish that don't exist.....looking for a minnow in a pond of sharks....

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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:33 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by CCrane72
If that matches we have an oddball that I'm sure the NCRS folks wold love to see.

cc
I'm on my way to the NCRS meet in Orlando. I'll talk to John Hinckley and Art Armstrong to see if they know of similar occurrences.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 12:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
I'm on my way to the NCRS meet in Orlando. I'll talk to John Hinckley and Art Armstrong to see if they know of similar occurrences.
Take your coat. It's cold in Florida. John will probably tell you mistakes were known to have been made and were corrected when detected, but it isn't likely an incorrect VIN plate got out the door.

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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 01:34 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Take your coat. It's cold in Florida. John will probably tell you mistakes were known to have been made and were corrected when detected, but it isn't likely an incorrect VIN plate got out the door.

yeah, its more than likely someone screwed it up AFTER it left the factory. I'll try and get the VIN from the rear frame and see if I can drop the gas tank sometime and get a pic of the buildsheet (if it's even there). I'll try and get the tranny code also since it's at the shop right now.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #37  
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Forgive me for my audacity, and also my ignorance if this has been raised already...but are they proper rosette rivets? Also, any chance of seeing a photo of the VIN plate? Any documentation like POP, tank sticker or window sticker? Any old receipts with the VIN written on them?

How about the driver's door edge blue certification sticker (maybe look here FIRST)?

If ALL these things are non-existent, the most recent assumption is almost certainly correct:

Originally Posted by IcemanZ06
...its more than likely someone screwed it up AFTER it left the factory...
Steve
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