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I used Dynamat extreme because of my research over the net I found some groups
that had done some unbiased testing they found Dynamat extreme was hard to beat.
It was also easy to install.
I have it in my ride but have not had it in hot weather yet to know its
true value.
Dynamat Extreme, Dynamat Original, Damplifier, Fat Mat...those are all sound deadeners and will do nothing for heat insulation. They simply dampen vibration, and transform sound energy into heat energy.
The Dynamat is good for dampening things so they don't vibrate and create noise, but for heat insulation you'll need something like jute or Reflectix, or a closed cell foam pad. Something designed to block heat.
Dynamat extreme has a reflective foil on one side to reflect the heat along
with the Dynamat material that is a sound deadener. I looked at the reflectix stuff
(sold at lowes) after buying the Dynamat and believe it to would block heat
but not the sound and you would have to glue it in with some good glue. I recently
found a product call lizard skin that might be worth your time to have a look.
Dynamat extreme has a reflective foil on one side to reflect the heat along
with the Dynamat material that is a sound deadener.
Yeah that foil is to deflect the tiny amounts of heat energy produced when the mat converts the sound energy to heat energy. That thin layer of foil will not keep engine temps out of the car.
The best combination is a layer of sound deadener on the bare floor and then some kind of heat shield between the sound deadener and the carpet. That's about the best way to go.
Something I'd like to know when using these products (or combinations of them) is how much can you put down on the floors, and all their curves and undulations, before you don't have enough carpet to fit OVER it correctly?
Yeah that foil is to deflect the tiny amounts of heat energy produced when the mat converts the sound energy to heat energy. That thin layer of foil will not keep engine temps out of the car.
The best combination is a layer of sound deadener on the bare floor and then some kind of heat shield between the sound deadener and the carpet. That's about the best way to go.
DB On the Dynamat web site they specifically tout their heat resistance properties of Dynamat Extreme although they don't get into specifics and they do recommend dynaliner for more cooling. Are they stretching the truth? I would think that the butyl layer that it's made of would provide some heat resistance. I found a good deal on the 9 piece kit of Dynamat extreme on Amazon I was thinking of giving it a go just to see how it does.
DB On the Dynamat web site they specifically tout their heat resistance properties of Dynamat Extreme although they don't get into specifics and they do recommend dynaliner for more cooling. Are they stretching the truth? I would think that the butyl layer that it's made of would provide some heat resistance. I found a good deal on the 9 piece kit of Dynamat extreme on Amazon I was thinking of giving it a go just to see how it does.
You have to understand the premise. Yes it will insulate to a degree but it's very thin and the butyl is not designed to guard against heat. It's design is to dampen panels that vibrate. The Extreme is thicker than original Dynamat so that helps, but it is not a heat barrier and with the engine and exhaust heat being as harsh as they are I would not rely on Dynamat to defend against heat.
If the carpet is out and you're laying down Dynamat I would suggest a heat protection too, Reflectix, jute, or a closed cell foam mat of some sort.
Even if they are stretching the truth about heat protection it's function as a vibration deadener is still it's primary function and it does that extremely well.
The heat you feel in the foot wells is a combination between a radiant heat from the exhaust system to the outer firewall and floor panels, and a conductive heat from the floor panels to the carpet. Now the insulation between the floor panel and the carpet will use a reflective foil to suppress a conductive heat, which is not a effective way to do it! .. foil will reflect radiant heat very well, but its poor when it comes to conductive heat, what you need for that kind of heat transfer is vacuum (best thing) or at least air, and here comes the effective-ness of Reflectix because its a combination of both (air bubbles and reflective foil on both sides).
My bottom line, the best way to do it is to fight the radiant heat from outside, and conductive heat from inside.
Now for the sound deadning materials, I don't know much about it.
An excellent article on heat shields was in the Winter 2009 of the NCRS magazine The Corvette Restorer comparing various brands of under carpet insulation mats. There was a BIG difference in the six brands compared but the winner by far was HushMat and in second place was Energy Q radiant barrier. Some of the big names did little. Hope this helps. Ed
I went with home made lizard skin (micro spheres mixed in paint), then reflectix glued down with 3M spray glue, then good jute backed carpet. Low cost and IMO effective.
It would be nice to see the NCRS winter article.....anyone have a link to it?
I went with home made lizard skin (micro spheres mixed in paint), then reflectix glued down with 3M spray glue, then good jute backed carpet. Low cost and IMO effective.
martinsw- Did you have to be careful with microspheres, I thought I remembered a thread about it being very hazardous to breath or something. Maybe that was something else. If not, how hard was it to make.
martinsw- Did you have to be careful with microspheres, I thought I remembered a thread about it being very hazardous to breath or something. Maybe that was something else. If not, how hard was it to make.
Sean
Sean,
Yes you do have to be carefull, the stuff is like a powder that you really don't want to breathe into your lungs. Use at least a paper filter mask (paint respirator if have one) and do it where there is not a draft / breeze (inside garage with doors closed). All you have to do is mix the 'powder' into your paint - I poured the powder from the plastic bag it came in, into a paint can half full of paint. Used a stir stick to (slowly) mix to a thick consistancy.
Once mixed up I don't think there are any helath issues - the microspheres are trapped by the paint, and for my floorboards, also covered by reflectix and jute/carpet. I simply brushed the resultant mixture on my floorboards, under seats, rear compartment, etc. I went fairly thick around tunnel and normal hot spots.
Very easy to make your own and only costs ~ $10 for a 'gallon' of microspheres, and whatever your choice of paint costs. If I recall right I used around a quart (two max) of rustoleum paint and not the entire gallon of microspheres.
Wow! There was a big difference between the top 2 (#1 Hushmat and #2 Energy Q) and the rest. I'm sold. One of these two will be under my new carpet sometime in the not-so-distant future.
Now, that is the type of information I look for. (Anybody got flow-rates for exhaust pipes, cats, and mufflers for an L98?)