so i lowered the steering column to remove the dash. put the dash back in and bolted back up the steering column(i did not remove the column just lowered it enough to get the dash in and didnt disconnect ANY WIRES) . now not only does the engine just spin and not fire, the ignition switch wont spring back from the start position and it would just keep spinning the starter if i didnt rotate key back. the car would start up fine before this. i didnt have a multimeter on me at the time so i think i can figure out the engine problem(probably no spark, i know there is gas in it) but have noidea why the ignition lock would all a sudden start acting this way..... anyone been stuck in this position before?

 

I'm no expert on this but I am in the process of rebuilding my steering column. The ignition switch on my '73 is connected to the column mounted key cylinder by a long rod that travels down the steering column and mechanically hooks into the ignition switch on top of the outside of the column down a ways down.

Perhaps the rod is hung up on something, bent, not fastened to the ignition switch correctly or you damaged the ignition switch when the column was lowered.

Turn the key in the cylinder and feel/look to see that the rod is moving freely and the ignition switch is clicking into the acc/lock/off/run/start positions.

 

bobz, there is still one more ignition switch position. The positions are:
START, RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, & ACCESSORY

corvtt1969, all of your symptoms do not sound exactly as if your column and ignition switch are not synchronized. Here is how to get them into proper synchronization:
First disconnect the battery.
Now drop the steering column or remove it from the car.

On the 1969 through 1976 columns there is a lever on the lower end of the steering column that is moved by a cable coming from the transmission. When you are in PARK (auto trans) and REVERSE (manual shift) the cable moves the lever to its full UP position. The lever is connected to a tube inside the column that extends up into the steering column head. When the lower lever is full UP, the tube opens a gate in the head that allows you to rotate your ignition key from OFF to OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY.

What you want is to disconnect the cable from the lower lever. Move the lever DOWN. Now when you rotate your ignition key it will rotate CCW until it is blocked and in the OFF position.

Now remove the ignition switch from the column. Stick a small phillips screwdriver into the bottom of the switch and slide the switch internals. Move all the way to START. You will feel the spring kicking you back to the RUN position. Now move the switch from RUN to OFF.

You will feel a detent between the two positions. Now your column is set in the OFF position and so is your ignition switch.

Carefully reinstall the switch on the the rod coming out of the column head. Now attach the switch to the column jacket. Make sure that the switch and/or the column does not move out of position. Now both the column and the switch are synchronized in the OFF positions.

Reinstall the column. Reattach the transmission cable to the lower lever. Make sure that it is all the way UP when you shift to PARK or REVERSE.

I hope that it corrects your problem(s).
Jim

 

ok, so i went to work on the car some today, went to lower the column and loosen things up and see if that would fix the spring issue in the column, and it did, as well as the starting issue. so i cant tighten my steering column up all the way if i want my ignition switch to work correctly. what should i look for being pinched?

 

Just guessing but I would say it's the rod binding on something like a harness or the housing cover is squeezing the rod as it comes out of the cover to the outside of the column. Put your hand on top of the column and feel if the rod and switch are not touching anything else and the housing is not compressed against something.