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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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Default Help on Distributor decode

If anyone has seen my other posts I have the original distributor to my car but thats it no 427

I was looking at the tag on it the other day and I know it read

111926 which is a 390/400hp 427 application

Now there is a code 8 L 29 on it, does that mean

December 29th 1968?

Now I have a chance at a complete 427, block date K 9 8 and heads dated K 14 8.

Would this be ok?


Or does the date on the distributor have to be closer?

And will the pad info on the block then have to be dated after the distributor??

Or was the motor assembled without ignition until later?

My car was built March 3rd 69

I know I will never have the original motor back but I would like to get it close.

Thanks
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fonz69
...there is a code...8 L 29...on it, does that mean December 29th 1968?...
Probably

...was the motor without ignition until later?...
The engine was assembled in Tonawanda, New York and shipped to St. Louis as a long block. The distributor was installed at St. Louis.

...My car was built March 3rd 69...
The NCRS will allow up to a six month window for assembly dates, although engine assembly and time/build dates are usually closer -- two weeks to a month. For a car assembled on March 3, 1969, you want to look for an engine assembled in early to mid February, 1969. That would have allowed time for the engine to have been shipped to St. Louis and on hand when your car was assembled on 3/3. Early February casting dates would be ideal, but late January would also be okay.

Good luck with the hunt.

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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Fonz69
Now there is a code 8 L 29 on it, does that mean

December 29th 1968?
November. The letter I is not used on distributor dates.

I agree with Mike, try to find a block within 2 to 4 weeks of car build date.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Fonz69
And will the pad info on the block then have to be dated after the distributor??
What info is on the pad now? How will you get rid of that to restamp your block with the new info. What about broach marks?
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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I am never going to pass my 427 off as the "original" motor.

I have a 512 block with a J 29 9 date which is too new for my car but I now came across another 512, K 9 8 complete motor for $800 so for the price I am thinking it might be close enough for now.I will have to keep my eyes open for a closer date.

I might just add the VIN of my car to the motor pad as the guy tells me there is no VIN on it now just for theft purposes.

At least I will have a numbers correct motor, as saying my car's original motor would have had these cast numbers or parts used to build it.

I think the Suffix on that $800 motor is LI which is a 335hp motor, they must have just changed cam or induction to get the 390hp for the LM suffix that I needed on my car?
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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Also how long is it possible to have casting parts and assemble dates apart.

example, motor block cast in K 9 8 and assembled in ????? would Jan or Feb of 69 be possible?

I had a cast date on a 1966 396 and the assembly date on the pad was over three months later.

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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Fonz69
Also how long is it possible to have casting parts and assemble dates apart....example, motor block cast in K 9 8 and assembled in ????? would Jan or Feb of 69 be possible?...
I would think K 9 8 would be too early for a March 3rd time/build code. Late January or early February would be better.

Dates on my '68 small block are:
left head cast March 28
right head cast April 1
block cast April 4
Engine assembled on April 9, 1968
Time build code for my '68: April 20th.


Last edited by Easy Mike; Mar 6, 2009 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Fonz69
I know I will never have the original motor back but I would like to get it close.
Originally Posted by Fonz69
I am never going to pass my 427 off as the "original" motor.
Originally Posted by Fonz69
I might just add the VIN of my car to the motor pad...
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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wfo76

Whats so confusing
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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Well we went from wanting to "get it close" to now wanting to fake an engine to look original. Sorry, I don't see any reason to stamp your VIN on a block you know is not original and could also actually be a crime in your state so check it out. Doesn't matter your intent, somewhere down the road this restamp will become the original engine and it is just wrong to do it. I thought you were looking for a correct and closely dated engine which is no problem, just leave pad as is or blank.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wfo76
Well we went from wanting to "get it close" to now wanting to fake an engine to look original. Sorry, I don't see any reason to stamp your VIN on a block you know is not original and could also actually be a crime in your state so check it out. Doesn't matter your intent, somewhere down the road this restamp will become the original engine and it is just wrong to do it. I thought you were looking for a correct and closely dated engine which is no problem, just leave pad as is or blank.
Only reason I said that was my insurance company always asks me when I get insurance for a collector car they want to know what if any the numbers on the motor or transmission are. Not sure why but they always ask.

I have my initials stamped in the back of my 540 thats in the Vette now so if it was ever stolen and possibly recovered I could prove it was mine. I suppose I could just stamp my intitals on the pad?

Besides even if I stamp the numbers into the motor dont you have to have some special type or size of number for it to be right anyway?

Not trying to "Restamp" the block and call it original just trying to cover all the bases in case of a worst case situation like theft.
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