When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am planning on rebuilding the Calipers on my 74 corvette, all around disc brakes, and wanted to know if anybody has any advise on what to look for or anything?
Once you are sure that they are SS sleeved, go to Vette Brakes and Products (vbandp.com) and buy the o-ring rebuild kits. They work great and are easy to install. Just make sure you get the kits with the new pistons. Your old lip seal pistons won't work with the new o-rings. They still have their 20% off sale going on. It's a good deal.
One tip I would offer is to break the two bolts loose that hold the caliper half's together before removing the calipers from the car. Just break them loose and the calipers won't leak (any more than they might already be leaking). But it is a lot easier than trying to do it on the bench after you've removed them from the car.
Also, if you're thinking of changing rotors, plan to replace the parking brake components (unless they're very new) while you have it apart. Many times when removing original rear rotors, I've seen rusted springs and or clips fall out, so just be prepared beforehand and you'll reduce your down time.
Good luck, rebuilding the calipers is not a difficult job, if you take your time and do it step-by-step... GUSTO
Take the old calipers off and inspect for pitting (rust). If the inside of them look good, take a wire brush and some brake caliper cleaner to clean them off good (the rebuilding kit is great)! The oring design is much better and lasts longer so I went this route. I then repainted the calipers and they are as good as new. It takes time but is much cheaper than buying new. Good luck!
I just finished this job this afternoon. I did the park brake as well since all the springs fell on the floor when I removed the rotor. The worst part of the whole job was getting the spring clips that hold the brakes to the backing plate on. The calipers are very easy to redo...just make sure to remove the bleed screws,and to blow air through all the passages, also I used a scotchbrite pad to clean the stainless steel liners. Just make sure everything is really clean afterwards (I found lots of machining slivers in two of the calipers). Make sure you find something very close to the OD of the seals to drive them in......I bent the first one and had to reuse an old one.
Front caliper torque: 130 ft/lbs
Rear caliper torque: 70 ft/lbs
I just redid all of mine. The backs where originals non SS, and apparently had been working for 20 or so years functionally. Didn't have them SS'd because I was going off how much it cost in the early 80's, which was a lot more then today apparently.
The bleeder screws at the highest end of the caliper is the only one needed to bleed the air out since air rises. I live close the Vette Brakes and Products and had my repaired there. the lower bleeders were broken off flush and just have plugs in them now. 78 Shark