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This has been going on for a while with my 78.
Calipers aren't showing any signs of leaks, we changed out the two fronts a couple or more years ago and bleed brakes. New tires are less than a week old. Alignment done last summer.
Symptoms:
steering turns easier to the right than when I turn to the left. When I hit the brakes easy it pulls slightly right - but when I jam on the brake the car pulls hard right where I have to hold on to the steering wheel with a grip.
Front end bushing were done back in the mid-1990s. I think we replaced with rubber.
Hard right grabbing still existed even after front end alignment.
What's the prognosis, ball joints, A-arm bushings or the whole front end shebang?
Bleed the system. Again there are numerous ways to do this but the easiest is gravity bleeding. Start by opening all of the caliper bleeder screws. Disconnect the power brake booster hose and check valve from the booster. Place the front tires on the rotors and then lower the front tires onto the ground. Jack the rear of the car up so that the center of the rear axle flange is 15” above the plane of the floor. Observe each bleeder valve. When fluid starts to flow out constantly, close the valve. Make sure fluid comes out of each bleeder valve. Whenever you are installing a complete new brake system, you want to make sure you purge all of the old fluid out of the lines. When the fluid starts to flow out of the open bleeders, it will be the old brake fluid. Wait until you see the clean new fluid start to flow out of the bleeders. When all of the bleeders are closed, top off the master cylinder. Re-connect the power brake booster hose and your system is bled. If fluid does not flow out in 10 or 15 minutes, you probably have some type of restrictions which you will have to locate and correct. Remember to keep the master cylinder full while you are gravity bleeding. Also by attaching a clear hose to each bleeder valve and into a container, you will keep brake fluid from running all over the garage floor.
Todd
Do everything cargo247 said to confirm a good brake bleed. Then if it still pulls when you apply the brakes, change the 2 rubber hoses on the front calipers. If they are old, chances are good that they are coming apart on the inside and restricting flow.
I re-read your post, and you say it turns easier one way than another, is that without applying the brakes? If so, then you may need to adjust the power steering control valve to balance the system. When driving down the road (no brakes applied) does it want to pull one way or the other? If yes, another symtom of the power steering control valve.
Do everything cargo247 said to confirm a good brake bleed. Then if it still pulls when you apply the brakes, change the 2 rubber hoses on the front calipers. If they are old, chances are good that they are coming apart on the inside and restricting flow.
I re-read your post, and you say it turns easier one way than another, is that without applying the brakes? If so, then you may need to adjust the power steering control valve to balance the system. When driving down the road (no brakes applied) does it want to pull one way or the other? If yes, another symtom of the power steering control valve.
Gary
Correct, there's slight drifting to the right while driving and no brakes applied - and also turning the steering wheel to the right is easier (less tension) than while turning left also while driving.
Get the front in the air, flip the wheels, see that the drag is the same sound and feel on both sides, if one side has more drag ans louder sound, I bet that's the side the car wants to go to...
change the brake hoses....a easy way to prove that is just loosen the bleeder valve, and see if the caliper relaxes that proves the hose....I had one lock up on me, forced to drive some 40 miles with it, smoked the pads and rotor really badly...2 rotors and a pad set later, on the road....rebuild kits too....smoked my wallet too....friendly fire casualty....
i had the same problem and replaced the calipers and thought it was the problem ............wrong it was the flex hose they seperate inside and hold pressure and will make it pull slightly when driving and really pull when you hit the brakes because theres already some pressure on that side in the seperated hose
I'm going to assume the flex hoses are original since we never changed them, and due to overall age it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change these anyway - right? I'm thinking I'll might start there first, then bleed, and then see how it goes. If it's still pulling then try adjusting the control valve balancing thingy.
I'm going to assume the flex hoses are original since we never changed them, and due to overall age it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change these anyway - right? I'm thinking I'll might start there first, then bleed, and then see how it goes. If it's still pulling then try adjusting the control valve balancing thingy.
Does this sound like the right approach?
The hoses should be replaced for sure, but I would adjust the control valve first since it doesn't cost anything.
Get the wheels off the ground, start up the engine and tweak the control valve adjuster until the steering wheel doesn't turn itself. Not to complex. Do you have a GM Service Manual which tells how to adjust it? I'll post what you need if you don't.
Gary - I found in the adjustment procedure in the manual. Thanks!
One thing I'm curious about though - what benefit is there between putting on stainless steel braided brake hoses versus the same type of rubber brake hoses that originally came on the car? If the originals rubber ones lasted 31 years then is it really necessary to upgrade to the SS braided hoses?
stainless lines do not expand, and give a much better brake feel. When you jam on the brakes and send brake fluid from the reservoir to the caliper you are pushing a lot of fluid in a short amount of time. The energy used to expand the rubber line is wasted. That energy should be used to drive the piston in the caliper. Rubber lines come stock because they are cheap.
Got the steering control valve balanced - that was pretty easy to fix. It only needed about 2/8's of a turn of the nut for a noticeable difference. Steering is more equal now.
your going to love the new brake lines...just make sure you do a good brake bleed...if your doing it yourself I would recommend buying a motive brake bleeder.