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A quick introduction; My name is Sean and I am a 24 year old Pharmacist in the great state of Arizona. I grew up working on muscle cars with my old man, once I got my license I was really deep into the honda scene and built some pretty serious drag cars (no underglow kits). As of recently I have gotten out of the dedicated "fun" car and lightly modified some daily drivers (mazdaspeed3 and a 135i). I would consider myself a fairly capable garage mechanic, I learn quickly, and enjoy working on cars. Now, my reason for posting;
As of late I have been considering a second car, the purpose of this car in the immediate future would be some light weekend driving, but ultimately 5-10 years down the road, I would like to turn the car into "that" project. You know, the one that you work on forever, dump thousands into, and don't finish for 20 years. I have been considering cars that I think have some bit of timelessness to them, that can be had at a "non-collector" price. One such vehicle I have come to consider is the later model C3 corvettes. I enjoy the looks, and think they will ultimately make for a great street rod.
Is there anything in particular that you all-knowing corvette folks think I should be on the hunt for? I like the pre 77 style because I'm not a fan of the fast back glass. Anything much before 75 seems to be falling into that collector price range already, so I'm considering a 75-77. The motor isn't a big concern for me, because I plan to go with something custom built down the line. Should I be hunting for a manual or automatic. Any particular colors. T-top's vs. coupes? Any insight I can gain would be great, as I said, this car is going to be with me for the rest of my life! Thanks guys.
T-top=Coupe.
Do you want a manual or automatic?
Does the color matter? It sounds like you have big plans, so find the ugliest cheapest one you can get your hands on...maybe one without a motor.
Is there anything in particular that you all-knowing corvette folks think I should be on the hunt for?
Buy the best car that you can afford. Inspect the frame and birdcage with a microscope.
Originally Posted by DocSean
T-top's vs. coupes?
All '76-'82 Corvettes have removable tops. '75 was the last year of the convertible. Buy what you like, knowing there is a good possibility it will leak.
Buy the best car that you can afford. Inspect the frame and birdcage with a microscope.
All '76-'82 Corvettes have removable tops. '75 was the last year of the convertible. Buy what you like, knowing there is a good possibility it will leak.
So rust should be my biggest concern? I understand the bodies are actually fiberglass (correct me if I am wrong) and links to how to thoroughly inspect frame and said "birdcage" for rust?
So rust should be my biggest concern? I understand the bodies are actually fiberglass (correct me if I am wrong) and links to how to thoroughly inspect frame and said "birdcage" for rust?
The body is fiberglass but the frame and birdcage is steel. The birdcage is the structure that suurounds the passenger compartment - rocker panels, windshield frame, behind the seat structure. The windshield frame and rocker panels frequently rust due to leaks from the T-tops and the windshield. Water percolating down often rusts out the #2 body mounts, and water in general rusts out the frame.
If you find a C3 that you are interested in try to find a local forum member who can look at the car with you. Try the Regional forums. Someone who has done work on a C3 will know what to look for when evaluating a car. Since you are in a generally rust-free area of the country you should be able to find a good condition car pretty easily. Here in the NorthEast it's the opposite.
So rust should be my biggest concern? I understand the bodies are actually fiberglass (correct me if I am wrong) and links to how to thoroughly inspect frame and said "birdcage" for rust?
Rust is a demon in all C-3's. And I'd pick a early (1970 to 1973) if it were me, but you have already ruled that out, so. In my expierence, I'd say look for a decent 1974 or 75 Corvette convertible. Thes cars are right now costing a little more on the up-front side, but down the road, you really can't go wrong with a convertible. They are almost out of all production except for European cars, and you can redo them in almost any configuration that you would like. Plus after you've had your fun, you can put the car back to stock (so long as you've kept all the pieces) and sell it very easily. I've had 5 Corvettes, and you really can't go wrong with a convertible of any year. As well stated above, you have to be carefull of any areas that may have rust speading out, so do plenty of shopping around. Don't jump at the first thing you look at and keep im mind this is going to be with you for 20 years or more. Anyway, Just my $0.02 Good luck
Rust is a demon in all C-3's. And I'd pick a early (1970 to 1973) if it were me, but you have already ruled that out, so. In my expierence, I'd say look for a decent 1974 or 75 Corvette convertible. Thes cars are right now costing a little more on the up-front side, but down the road, you really can't go wrong with a convertible. They are almost out of all production except for European cars, and you can redo them in almost any configuration that you would like. Plus after you've had your fun, you can put the car back to stock (so long as you've kept all the pieces) and sell it very easily. I've had 5 Corvettes, and you really can't go wrong with a convertible of any year. As well stated above, you have to be carefull of any areas that may have rust speading out, so do plenty of shopping around. Don't jump at the first thing you look at and keep im mind this is going to be with you for 20 years or more. Anyway, Just my $0.02 Good luck
Now, logic would tell me that a coupe would be less likely to rust than a convertible, thus I had thought of the '75 coupe...but correct me if I am wrong. In the future I am looking at putting down some major power, and thus I also thought coupe would be the better bet.
Can anyone link me to a be-all c3 corvette vendor for aftermarket suspension, driveline components, etc. It seems like there is definitely a lot out there, but the forum guys usually know best.
im selling my 76 project that i have been working on for about 7 years now. if its not what your looking for there is also a list of most of the parts taht i have bought with websites and prices that way you can get an idea of what it costs to restore one of these things.
I have a '75 that I just got that I am going to sell or part out. I was given two cars from a friend of the family. They were going to build one car for themselves and one for their son. Well the son passed away from a brain tumor and the cars have been a source of painful memories for the last couple of years so they asked me to come and get them. They are both builders and I actually got the engines to run last weekend. I really hate to part out one of the cars but I am going to use the cash from one to build the other. I would rather see both cars on the road being enjoyed and used. So get in touch with me and come take a look at one of them. I live in North Glendale.
I agree with Killain as is obvious from the pic of my 1974 roadster. As to whether 1974 (5,474 units produced) or 1975 (4,629), I would just point out that 1974 is the last year of true dual exhaust and the 454 big-block option. The model year 1975 saw the 454 become history and the pellet-type catalytic converter with 2-1-2 exhaust was introduced. I am not familiar with emissions laws in Arizona or other States but your mods may have to meet certain visual standards at a minimum. And exhaust is perhaps #1 on the hit list. You may be OK in Arizona for now but your described time-line is long and if you move to another State...? I do recognize that changing back to a stock 2-1-2 is not terribly expensive but it is a nuisance. With a 1974 you can simply say "That's how it came from St. Louis." Just a thought to ponder.