Question on setting rear toe/track.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Question on setting rear toe/track.
I'm reading the tutorial here...
http://www.duntovmotors.com/AlignmentSchool.htm
And when it comes to the shims, all it says is...
By "spacers" are they referring to the shims? Or are you supposed to insert a couple wedges or some such into the pocket to hold the arm still? The reason I ask is because I don't see how in the world I'm supposed to pound the shims home with the wheel in place. And obviously if you jack it up and pull the wheel off, the front of the trailing arm is going to shift around without the shims in place. 
I must be missing something here.
TIA
http://www.duntovmotors.com/AlignmentSchool.htm
And when it comes to the shims, all it says is...
When you are there, put the spacers in and tighten up the trailing arm bolts. Check it again just to make sure, and then insert the cotter pins in the trailing arm bolts and in the shim packs and you are finished with the toe adjustment.
I must be missing something here.
TIA
Last edited by wcsinx; Jun 24, 2009 at 03:12 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
You also better hope your car (if early C3) has the slotted shims so they slide on and off the trailing arm bolt. If not you have to slide the bolt out to change the non slotted shims. Not fun.
I just had the ta's done on the 68 (GTR1999, thanks Gary!) and slotted stainless steel shims went back in as well as drilling the pockets for the long cotter pin to hold them in place.
I just had the ta's done on the 68 (GTR1999, thanks Gary!) and slotted stainless steel shims went back in as well as drilling the pockets for the long cotter pin to hold them in place.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
When I was doing mine I think I read that you align the trailing arms using shims on the inner side first (on the side nearest the differential) and once the alignment readings are correct you make it all firm by packing the outer gaps. You shouldn't need to 'pound' anything into place. Tightening up the pivot bolt will squash the frame enough to clamp it all tight (in my experience).
You ought to do the alignment with the weight on the wheels to ensure that everything is sitting in its final position.
You ought to do the alignment with the weight on the wheels to ensure that everything is sitting in its final position.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
You also better hope your car (if early C3) has the slotted shims so they slide on and off the trailing arm bolt. If not you have to slide the bolt out to change the non slotted shims. Not fun.
I just had the ta's done on the 68 (GTR1999, thanks Gary!) and slotted stainless steel shims went back in as well as drilling the pockets for the long cotter pin to hold them in place.
I just had the ta's done on the 68 (GTR1999, thanks Gary!) and slotted stainless steel shims went back in as well as drilling the pockets for the long cotter pin to hold them in place.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
When I was doing mine I think I read that you align the trailing arms using shims on the inner side first (on the side nearest the differential) and once the alignment readings are correct you make it all firm by packing the outer gaps. You shouldn't need to 'pound' anything into place. Tightening up the pivot bolt will squash the frame enough to clamp it all tight (in my experience).
You ought to do the alignment with the weight on the wheels to ensure that everything is sitting in its final position.
You ought to do the alignment with the weight on the wheels to ensure that everything is sitting in its final position.
And as far as clamping with the bolt, you're saying just make then hand-tight (no pounding them home with a hammer) prior to torquing the bolt and squashing the pocket in on them? The old ones seemed like they were in there tight as hell even after I had the bolt loose. Of course I was also fighting 33 years worth of rust welding.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
There has to be enough room for the pivot to work - you're not seeking a welded-solid assembly.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
If you couldn't get the last shim in, probably somebody already crushed the frame box section closed slightly.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
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From: South of London, Engerland
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Are you doing this without the AIM? AIM has a diagram and instructions for setting the rear toe. Inner shim stacks first to set the toe, then the outers.
While your link might be helpful, once your rebuild is completed, I would drive the car no farther than a reputable alignment shop and have a four wheel alignment done by a pro.
While your link might be helpful, once your rebuild is completed, I would drive the car no farther than a reputable alignment shop and have a four wheel alignment done by a pro.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jun 30, 2009 at 09:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Are you doing this without the AIM? AIM has a diagram and instructions for setting the rear toe. Inner shim stacks first to set the toe, then the outers.
While your link might be helpful, once your rebuild is completed, I would drive the car no farther than a reputable alignment shop and have a four wheel alignment done by a pro.
While your link might be helpful, once your rebuild is completed, I would drive the car no farther than a reputable alignment shop and have a four wheel alignment done by a pro.
I've actually done alignments like this before, I just never dealt with a trailing arm & shim arrangement like the C3's. You'd be amazed at how accurately you can set things up with strings, levels, angle finders, and patience.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
I don't have the AIM, but the Duntov instructions seem to be spot on.
I've actually done alignments like this before, I just never dealt with a trailing arm & shim arrangement like the C3's. You'd be amazed at how accurately you can set things up with strings, levels, angle finders, and patience.
I've actually done alignments like this before, I just never dealt with a trailing arm & shim arrangement like the C3's. You'd be amazed at how accurately you can set things up with strings, levels, angle finders, and patience.
