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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 02:36 AM
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Default Razor blade paint removal

I have seen in other threads where people talk about paint removal using a razor blade to get the job done. I figure you have to keep the blade on a very low angle (close to the body) to keep from gouging into the glass but what other special tips, tools, etc... Do you use the old single edge blades? a special holder? Does it work on all paints, or just lacquer? multiple layers? How about inside the jambs? Sorry for all the questions, but I am about to that point on my 73'.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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low angle use mostly on flat surfaces, not so good for door jam area,
a sanded jams by hand, a holder will help espically if you use a heat gun to soften the paint, use standard single blades, at first you think this will never work,
once you get the hang of it it works great, the part I liked the best, you can do as little or as much as you wish in a time frame. the more layers of paint, the better it works I think ! 69VETT
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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once you get the hang of what the blade can do. don't worry about a few slight gouges in the beginnig- you will get the feel for it
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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I've found that the finish paint comes off easier if you use a heat gun with a razor blade, but in doing so, you leave more primer on the 'glass than if you use the razor blade without the heat gun. I've had a lot of difficulty removing the primer using both Acetone and MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone).

The bottom line for me has been that the paint and primer are removed more quickly using the razor blade without the heat gun, plus the Acetone or MEK.

I'm still looking for an easier (quicker) method of removing the primer.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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Single edge blades in a holder -- the best quality you can get. Go slowly and be careful. Expect to get some nicks you will have to repair.

Keep a sharp blade and change them often.

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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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I don't have the guts to strip one with a razor blade, so I did mine with chemical stripper. I watched my painter strip a replacement t top for me with a blade, and he had half of it done in about 30 seconds, so it can be done apparetnly fairly easily, I just dont' trust myself to do it.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 70Yellowbird
I'm still looking for an easier (quicker) method of removing the primer.
I'm planning on removing the primer by wet sanding it off. Use a garden hose with a slow trickle of water coming out of it and just start sanding. I would guess that soda blasting, or soft media blasting would be effective also. The primer is pretty soft and should come off quickly.

My 70 looks like it has about 1/16 inch of primer on it - quite a bit of primer. I've been using an exacto knife and a hair dryer. The original paint on my 70 was covered with a thick layer of primer, then a lacquer paint (blue-green metallic) and then later painted again with a thick red urethane. I plan to remove all the red urethane and the primer.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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Default razor blade and heat gun.



It will cause small nicks. No big deal. After the bottom shot we filled with Rage Gold and sanded

Last edited by rayluka; Jun 29, 2009 at 03:57 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 70Yellowbird
I've found that the finish paint comes off easier if you use a heat gun with a razor blade, but in doing so, you leave more primer on the 'glass than if you use the razor blade without the heat gun. I've had a lot of difficulty removing the primer using both Acetone and MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone).

The bottom line for me has been that the paint and primer are removed more quickly using the razor blade without the heat gun, plus the Acetone or MEK.

I'm still looking for an easier (quicker) method of removing the primer.
You can sand it or a light coat of stripper with scotchbrite. Then elbow grease.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Single edge blades in a holder -- the best quality you can get. Go slowly and be careful. Expect to get some nicks you will have to repair.

Keep a sharp blade and change them often.

Did you make up a special holder or just use one like you use when scraping stickers/paint off a window pane?
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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I've done 2 68's in the past two years and bladed em both. Like the others said, expect a few nicks here and there. Deffinatly get a holder or 2(different kinds..some seem to work better than others), and a 100 pack of single edge blades...NOT...I repeat NOT the kind you put in a retractable razor knife,they are too stiff. Your going to find places you'll need to fill anyway so a few nicks is not that big a deal. I didn't use heat on mine. I found that if you get to a spot where filler was put on, the heat really softens it and the blade will dig in. You can get good results on curved pannels if you take the blade out of the holder and work it nice and slow by hand. Its sounds scary at fist, but start with the T-tops, (if it's a coupe) or the back deck. You might have to get a spot sanded down to the primer to give you a starting point, but it should go pretty easy after that. good luck and happy sanding, and sanding,and sanding.......
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:59 PM
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actually block sanding the final primer is the best way to go after razor stripping.
69VETT
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 01:00 AM
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I'm planning on razor stripping my 79 this fall.
I believe it has the original silver and has been painted over at least once with a base/clear, maybe twice? How much time should I expect to spend on it??? How many hours?
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette Rookie
Did you make up a special holder or just use one like you use when scraping stickers/paint off a window pane?
Commercial, off the shelf, holder. Look for a good one. Some are better quality than others. If memory serves, the one I like came from Lowe's.

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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by blckslvr79
I'm planning on razor stripping my 79 this fall.
I believe it has the original silver and has been painted over at least once with a base/clear, maybe twice? How much time should I expect to spend on it??? How many hours?
Thats hard to say for sure depending on how many coats are on it and how good the paint is(the worse the better in this case) I would plan on at least 40 hours to blade it and another 40 to block sand and fill nicks. These are purely based on what I have done, and the paint came off pretty easy. The second one I did went quicker than the first just due to a little more experience. It also depends on how perfect you want the body when your done. A perfectly stright body will add at least another 40 hours to the job. If you have a competent friend or two to help it goes a lot faster(assuming you don't take to many beer breaks). Just have fun with it, and if you start getting frustrated...STOP.Trying to push it when your mad will just result in more nicks ti fix.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by whitehause
Thats hard to say for sure depending on how many coats are on it and how good the paint is(the worse the better in this case) I would plan on at least 40 hours to blade it and another 40 to block sand and fill nicks. These are purely based on what I have done, and the paint came off pretty easy. The second one I did went quicker than the first just due to a little more experience. It also depends on how perfect you want the body when your done. A perfectly stright body will add at least another 40 hours to the job. If you have a competent friend or two to help it goes a lot faster(assuming you don't take to many beer breaks). Just have fun with it, and if you start getting frustrated...STOP.Trying to push it when your mad will just result in more nicks ti fix.
Sounds like I may plan a "Stripper" party when the fall comes!
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by blckslvr79
Sounds like I may plan a "Stripper" party when the fall comes!
Are those legal in Indiana? Is their a cover charge? Sorry, I couldn't resist! "Once Navy, always Navy"
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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I found the razor blade method worked very well. You do have to keep the blade at a low angle and you need to apply even, consistant pressure. I've got a write-up, photos, and a video of how I did it here http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...ping_paint.htm

I say give it a shot. Even if you find it doesn't work well on your car it won't be much effort wasted. I've had to use chemical strippers before and it's just as much work and much more messy.

Good luck!
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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I have found that if you round the edges of the blade on a bench grinder you will get a lot less gouging. Hold the blade vertical and feed the bottom edge into the grinder. Turn it over and do the other side. Do not need to round much, just enough so it is not a 90 degree edge. Have not done it on glass but have done it on a metal body. Worked very well.
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