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Power brakes add on?

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:48 PM
  #1  
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From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Default Power brakes add on?

Seems most of the c3 verts I look at in my price and desire range do not have power brakes,
My 66 didnt have power brakes and I just dont recall a huge difference,
Can power brakes be added to a non power brakes car or is it not even worth the hassle?
Thanks
Cheers,
P.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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I know you can't just out a power booster on it because the two systems are different. You can add a hydroboost such as http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Hydr...rakeunits.html From people I have spoken with that have the hydroboost, they love them.
My 69 has manual brakes and I think they work just fine. I could lock them up if I needed too.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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We have done this conversion many times and with the factory parts! While the standard brake cars are great, the power brake cars when done properly will try to throw you thru the windshield. We actually did this same conversion on Norm’s car about five years ago so if you want to know how much a difference it made, give him a call at 800-588-3883. I’m sure he would be happy to talk with you about this.

So here we go and I hope this helps. . . .

Installing power brakes on car that did not have them is actually pretty easy.

All you need is to do is remove the master cylinder and replace it with a booster/master cylinder combo. Sounds easy but there are some changes you’ll have to make before you bolt it up. (I’m doing this from my noggin, so if I miss something someone else feel free to chime in).

When you remove the old master cylinder you’ll see there are two studs that mount it in the firewall. You’ll need to knock these out! Then you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the power brake booster. This is really easy since the reinforcement on the back side of all non power brake cars will show you the outline of the hole that needs to be enlarged. When you look inside the car you’ll see it.

Once you have enlarged the hole, you need to insert the booster in to the existing two holes (where the studs were) in the firewall. Then using the booster, mark the location of where the additional two holes need to drilled for mounting the booster.

Once this is done you can mount the booster and master cylinder to the firewall and proceed to attach the clevis to the brake pedal in the new location (already existing on the pedal).

You’ll need to change the brake lamp stop switch bracket; the power brake car has a longer one than the non power brake car.

You’ll need to change (or bend if possible) the two lined from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

I believe I’ve covered most of this, now let me show you some pictures.

Willcox Inc.

Here is the hole in the firewall difference.



Here is the brake stop lamp switch bracket: http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12540



Here is the booster and master cylinder: http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=22171


Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jul 3, 2009 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 12:35 AM
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Made the changeover to power brakes on my 71. Easy as described above and worth every penny. Makes her handle better too since it already had power steering.

I strongly suggest you replace all your calipers at the same time for best results.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 12:43 AM
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From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
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Wilcox, many thanks!
I pretty much thought at the most the master cylinder was different but I knew the calipers were the same pretty much from when they started on mid years in 65/66-82
Makes me feel better than even if what I find doesnt have PB I can add them what I would call pretty darn easy,
I will hit you up when that time comes,
Cheers,
P.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 07:24 AM
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I would vote for a hydroboost conversion. I converted my manual brake '71 to a hydroboost and couldnt be happier.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 02:55 PM
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So what about dollars and sense, which way is cheaper and is the one that cost more worth the extra frog skins?
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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I got my hydroboost from a forum member with its mounting plate for $160, I made all the lines myself which cost around $130, got a 77-82 M/C for $80, the total is $370 if you'll do all the work yourself, which is a really straight forward and easy. The good part about it is you don't have to remove the studs and then torturing yourself by tightening the nuts from the inside!
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