I am considering purchasing a 68 for less than 10k. It is running and driving. It has some minor body damage that I can repair on the front but it would need to be repainted as there is no way to match the paint. It's metallic single stage, some custom color. It not the original drive drive train and has some issues with it as any vette under $10 might have. I would need to do a new fuel sending unit, new vac lines (included), new/rebuilt steering box, etc. It is marginal driver quality. I know 68's have some issues with being the first C3, but it is a mid 68. "G" if I recall. Any thoughts? I don't want to bring it to show quality, but rather get it in respectable condition and enjoy. At some point I would sell it for a roadster. It is a coupe with tops that function properly and it's a four speed. The shifter needs rebuilt, it's loose. There is a lot of little stuff. The frame appears to be good from what I can tell. The motor is on it's last legs, but not original.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

 

I would offer encouragement. I am a big fan of '68s...

I bought my car to drive, but I've had a blast working on it. If you have a good floor jack and some stands, it's an easy car to work on. The parts are cheap, and if you frequent this board, the advice is FREE.

To each his own, of course, but I would think an originally available paint/interior combo would make the car more valuable when you sell it to buy a roadster. FWIW, I almost wish my car needed paint, because I would go triple black in a heartbeat.

Good luck with your decision!

 

Being 40+ years old, the original production issues are not the ones to worry about. In fact it will have a lot of issues just because it's an old car, same as a 69 or 70.

 

My guess is it will be another $10K-$15K to get it to where you would want it to be, once you get started on it, if you are turning all the wrenches.

It's a part of the hobby.

Brent.

 

IMO not THAT C3 much better deals out there, and depending on what you want to do, a '68 has it's own set of problems with first year RARE parts....assuming you care....

 

I say pass on this car.. IMHO it is too expensive for what it is. You say you want a convertible later, so starting off you are paying a lot for something that doesn't meet your wants. I will say this, though, a coupe with the t-tops off and rear window out has that convertible feel. I may be biased, but I also feel that the coupes are much safer and look better. I think this car is too expensive because it has a NOM on its last leg, needs bodywork, needs a complete paint job, possibly a new interior, and a lot of little stuff that definitely adds up(believe me)..

So I am just going to throw some numbers out there with the thoughts you're bringing this car back to life the cheapest and easiest way possible.

$3,000 crate engine (not including installation and taxes)
$5,500 bodywork and paint job (At this price, don't expect much)
$2,000 (seats, door panels, carpet and some little misc stuff)
$2,000 (rough estimate on brakes and suspension considering that you go back with OEM)
$500 tires
+$1,000 other misc little stuff (keep in mind it could be more)
$14,000 on top of the 10,000 to make the car safe and presentable.

So, you are already looking at $24,000+ and that counting that you will do almost all of the work. If someone else is doing it, add about another $5-10k.

My advice when buying a C3 is buy some else's restoration or buy what appears to be a basketcase with a solid frame and suspension under it. Never buy one that is inbetween because you pay a "premium" for a driveable car (even if it is about to fall apart on you).

 

Thank you for the comments. You make some very good points. I was also looking at a 69, but a double the price tag. I made the comment to my wife that it is amazing the difference 7K makes.

 

Always buy the best car you can find and afford. You will come out time and money ahead even if you can supply all the labor (I do it the hard way because I can't afford the nicer cars). Toy prices of all sorts have ebbed in this economic climate... only the rare, Hi-Po and/or exceptionally preserved/restored examples are still commanding significant premiums. This is not a "must have" purchase... you don't expect to commute daily in a 'Vette? So shop and research... the correct car at a reasonable price will present itself sooner or later. Enjoy the hunt, and I envy your ability to shop so high on the food chain!

 

BTW, my budget for the 1977 I acquired recently for $450.00 is approximately $3000.00 for all mechanicals to include a used engine, all body/suspension bushings/joints, rebuilt turbo 350, complete brake replacement and a new radiator; then $3000.00 for all the cosmetics. At this investment level I expect to put about 300 or so hours of my (free) labor into the car, and it may or may not get some nicities like working A/C in the initial build. Nice driver quality 1974-1977 cars sell for about the same price in my area currently. Try and get a mechanical history of any car you consider so you can anticipate upcoming expenses, and perhaps negotiate price more effectively. Have fun, spend wisely and go chase your dream!

 

Sundevil's assessment looks right to me. Best to know what you're up against. If you ultimately want a vert, buy the best one you can afford now.

As far as prices --personal opinion now, flame if you must-- I would advise you take everyone's comments with a grain of salt. When I was looking for my car, I kept reading on here about how I should be able to find a decent C3 coupe for $7k and a convertible for $10k. I looked for a long time and never did find one of those cars. Maybe $8k to $12k for coupes and $15k & up for verts, and many of those were rough.

My point is that you will likely end up with $20 grand+ in the car regardless of the approach you take, and probably not recoup your investment if you sell. You should base your decision on that, not on the fact that you may be paying a couple grand more than the mythical $7k to buy the car in the first place.

Good luck, whatever you decide, and enjoy it!

 

only issue with '68 is "some" hard to find interior trim pieces and a couple other minor items. Just do your homework and know what you are getting into.

 

I've owned my '68 for twentyfive years.

 

You might try checking around here on the forum, that's how I found mine. Restoring is always time consuming and expensive, especially if you have a little bad luck and you break stuff (never, ever happens to me!). Personally, I found a good body w/o rust underneath so that I could mess around with the drivetrain to get it where I wanted it. I wasn't planning on redoing the brakes and the cooling system but here I am none the less! You'll know when you find the car you are looking for. If you're anything like me you will know in about 20 seconds if you want it...

 

Whatever you decide to buy. Know that a classic is a labor of love.
There's always something that needs to be done. The more you initially invest, the less you have to deal with.

 

Thank you for all the discussion. I was cruising the ads and found a deal I couldn't refuse. I picked up a 74 that had become a stalled project. According to the previous owner the motor has been rebuilt (original block) along with the tranny and the complete rear end to the brakes. The interior has been removed, but it appears to be all there for a carpet replacement. it appears to be in good condition minus a little surface rust here and there. It should make a decent project to have on the road in short order.

Since this is my first C3, are there any tricks or methods I should use in putting the dash back in?

The car came with a bunch of parts too, to include a complete urethane bushing set. Should I use these or stick with the rubber? I used rubber on my C2 and it worked fine.

Thanks again for all your comments and advice. It saved me from making a mistake on anoterh C3.

John

 

Well, I pushed out the 74 yesterday to see if I could get it to start. After a little carb cleaner in the thoat it started then stalled. I had a hard time keeping it running, but it had sat for some time. btw-I pushed it out in case of fire. I have helped to put out a couple and it doesn't seem so bad if it isn't in your attached garage...

After a post crank and sem-start walk around I found the problem, why it would not run. Not enough fuel pressure and supply due to most of it leaking out of a severely cracked hose. Ater quickly fixing, it started right up and ran! Actually it ran pretty good for sitting over a year and then 7 years before that. It appears to have a little bit of a cam in her. It sounded nice with the full length headers and the flows.

My wife was very happy to know that it started and ran considering I bought the car w/o checking the motor and just going off of a guys word. So far everything he said seems to be consistent with what I am finding. Nice to know there area some that just tell it how it is w/o embelishing.

Next. put the interior in.

 

Hec yes I would buy it for $10K. It would be a great project car, and the more work you do on it yourself the more it becomes your own car. You learn alot, when you do the work yourself. At least it runs, but how many of these cars do you see on the road anymore? I look at it as saving another classic car!

 

Here's a link to the restoration of my #s matching 68 I finished last. It was a POA but after seeing the end result it was worth it.
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/l...20Restoration/

 

If you can do most the labor and would enjoy it, buy it. If not, pass and save for a bit more car.

Also, I don't know what your automotive skills are but these cars are not easy to work on; from bodywork, to under-dash, to the IRS, to A/C work, to headlights, etc. You often need the hands of small child and the dexterity of an olympic gymnast.

But for most of us, it's worth it.

Also, who above broke the rule about never adding up receipts? He should know better.

 

You aren't kidding. I just took out the proportioning valve because I suspected a plugged line from moisture. I'm clearing out all the brake lines due to the fact it has not been run for about 8 years and moisture got in the system.

The top fittings are a bare. two of the fittings took longer to get in than it did for me to put the car up, replace two calipers, caliper hoses, and the master cylinder. Talk about an excercise in patience!