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I found a 1982 Corvette Collectors Edition. How do I verify it is the original motor, trans and tags? What should the engine pad say? How do I decode the date? How do I make sure its a real CE?
Nothing in the VIN indicates a Collectors verse any other 82. The trim tag should read 59
for the Silver Beige paint code and 592 for the Silver Beige Leather trim. These tags don't say trim or paint on them. A Collectors tag will actually read on the second line as follows: 592 59L 59U
The engine suffix is ZBA for all federal emission 82's and either ZBC or ZBN for Calif. cars. The trans code is YA and is stamped in the right (passenger) side above the pan.
The dating on 81 and 82 Bowling Green trim tags is different than found on 81 and earlier St. Louis tags. The date is located in the upper left of the tag. For 82 it will start with a "C" (indicating 82) and followed by two numbers for the month (10 for Oct. 81, 11 = Nov. 81, etc. and starting over with 01 for Jan. 82), lastly there will be a letter again for the week of the month. As such, a tag dated C 12B would be the second week of Dec. 1981 and C 04C would be the third week of April 82.
Check out the operation of the hatch very carefully, nothing is available for the hatch currently. If it needs weatherstrip or the release cable, they will be very hard to find and expensive. Replacement gas support shocks might be available though.
Last edited by gbvette62; Aug 5, 2009 at 01:23 PM.
The sixth digit of the VIN is a zero for CEs.
Engine suffix code will be ZBA, ZBC, or ZBN.
VIN dervitive stamp on the engine pad will match the VIN
Good luck.
Mikes right, 6th digit in the VIN is a "0", on a regular 82 it's an "8". I forgot about that, I was thinking only the 78 Pace Car had it's own VIN indicator. Doesn't say much about 80-82 NCRS judges (of which I am one), does it!
Keep in mind specific repairs to that car (body decals, interior parts, as well as the hatch which was mentioned) are one year specific and expensive.
Speaking of hatches is there still only one guy making hinges ?
And has anyone come up with a way to stop the rearward slide pressure from the struts that ruins the original hinges ?