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Any electricians on the forum willing to help me with a 220V air compressor, it has a separate box with a reset button on it, believe it was called a remote starter, not sure how to hook the wiring. Contact me off forum at ratdog42@comcast.net . Any help would be appreciated....thanks...............Bruc e
There should be a wiring diagram on the side of the motor next
to the motor junction box. In the junction box on the motor is were
you will change the connection at, the pressure switch will not need to
be rewired.
There should be a wiring diagram on the side of the motor next
to the motor junction box. In the junction box on the motor is were
you will change the connection at, the pressure switch will not need to
be rewired.
Hope this helps,
Riggs.
The comp box is not the problem, there is a seperate box with a reset switch, I remember when I originally hooked everything up about 20 yrs ago when I threw the breaker nothing worked until I pushed the reset button, then comp turned on.When I tore everything down 3 yrs ago and moved everything to my house, I didn't mark where any wires went. The inside of this box is a nightmare of junctions, I might just eliminate it and just run through a on/off breaker box if no one comes through here. I have 3/10 wire, and might just run from a double pole at the box, into the remote breaker, and then to the compressor. I recall never having to push that reset button ever except for that first firing!!!! Later..................B
I would keep the reset button, It's there for if the motor started to
over heat. I haven't been in side on of these for years but my still be
of some help. If the reset button only has two wires then it is only
meant to break one leg, and the other passes through with out being
broken. If the reset has 4 wires then it is meant to break both incoming
lines. What I just described is for a reset that would be factory mounted
on the compressor, If you are talking about an add on thermal overload
switch then it will wire to terminals nearly the same. Do you have a photo
of this set up, It would help me under stand what you are working with a
little better.
There are 2 loose black wires, labeled in pic "black 1" and "black 2", 2 goes to where "black out" is and black one runs to the right of "4" post. The black wire between posts 2 and 3 goes to where "red out" is, the one below posts "1" and "2" goes down to post 4 right with the other black wire. I believe that bottom area where post 4 is is to hook accessories to, I had an outlet coming off that area (which I am eliminating). I know the "black 2" has to go to one of the posts, 1,2, or 3 to energize the black out wire. The heavy black wire that runs from post 3 to 4 must energize the bottom section. SOOOOOOO, post 1 and 2 have white paint on them, is this where I put my incoming red and black wires?Which one then gets "black 2" wire, I think Black 1 is not used now if bottom posts aren't used. Where does the white wire then go? What about the bare wire, is it needed? My old harness had only white red black coming in and it only has black and red to compressor. Hope this makes sense...........Bruce
From what I can see on the pic...Your incoming power should go to the top of your relay (Points 1 & 2), your outgoing wires that power your compressor go on the two terminals on both sides of #4. The reason for the jumper wire from 4 to 3 is that you are using a 3-phase relay and overload with a single phase output.
The "reset" is a thermal overload. I cannot decipher from the photo and write up if the other wires are all related to the overload. (Most likely they are) The wires may have gone through both the compressor overtemp and the overcurrent protection (the device below contactor pictured). This would protect you both in the event of motor overtemp or sudden current draw.
If either the compressor overtemp or the contactor overload are tripped, then you would have to hit the reset button.
I hope this helps and doesn't cause more confusion.....
From what I can see on the pic...Your incoming power should go to the top of your relay (Points 1 & 2), your outgoing wires that power your compressor go on the two terminals on both sides of #4. The reason for the jumper wire from 4 to 3 is that you are using a 3-phase relay and overload with a single phase output.
The "reset" is a thermal overload. I cannot decipher from the photo and write up if the other wires are all related to the overload. (Most likely they are) The wires may have gone through both the compressor overtemp and the overcurrent protection (the device below contactor pictured). This would protect you both in the event of motor overtemp or sudden current draw.
If either the compressor overtemp or the contactor overload are tripped, then you would have to hit the reset button.
I hope this helps and doesn't cause more confusion.....
So my red and black out are wrong?!?!?!? They should go out by the post4, where does the white wire go?
That looks like a magnetic starter (a switch just like a relay or in ac, a contactor) for a 220v, but 3 phase. Is your compressor motor 3 phase?
From the description of your motor wiring, it sounds like you have single phase.
I set up mine on the compressor frame itself and ran the signal wires to a regular 110 wall switch for on and off. When on the pressure switch turns the compressor on and off. Mine is 3 phase. The red and black wires going to the conduit are the ones that signal the coil to pull in the contacts.
The leads to your motor should connect to the T1 and T2 etc after the links.
Your incoming power should land on terminals 1 and 2 then if you keep that larger wire
on 3 and 4 ( not sure why that is there, it's really not needed) but if it stays then land
the wires going to the compressor motor on the terminals that are left and right of #4,
these should be labeled T1 and T3. Does the inside of the cover have a wiring diagram
for the control circuit? If so could you post a photo of it so I can further help you with this,
Also need to make sure that the coil is rated for 220v. The control side of this should be as
follows, off of the incoming feed L1 , you should have a wire going straight to the coil from L1 ,
Then off of L2 you should have a wire going to the holding contact ,the terminal block to the
right, common terminal, then from the terminal blocks normally open terminal a wire will go to the
thermal over load terminal 1 then from 2 through the pressure switch, from the pressure
switch to the other coil terminal.
I hope this helps, but just to cover myself I am not responsible for anything
that might go wrong I am only trying to help from a distance and would
be better help to you if I was there. I would still like to see the diagram on the
cover to make sure that I am not telling you wrong.
that is for a 3 phase motor you said 220, that is obviously not the right box for what your doing. give details on the compressor your trying to wire up.
If it is a new modern compressor toss that box out.
and where is your GND connection ?
69VETT
You can use that box, It just has three poles instead of two, No big deal.
How ever that wire from 3 and 4 Is really not needed, how ever all that is
doing is running the L2 through the L3, Really unneeded. You should get rid of
that wire going from 3 and 4 then run your incoming power to L1 and L2 and the
T1 and T2 leads should run out to the compressor. But yes that 3 pole starter
will work just as well as a two pole starter.
yes it will work, however unless he is running a old motor directly. It is not needed.
also the heater overloads are preset to a certain current, in this case for a 3 phase motor.
Any new compressor has protection built into the Compressor Motor,
I am guessing old box, new compressor ?
I bought this compressor from a company in Ohio about 20-25 yrs ago, a place called TIP Sandblasting, it was a cabinet / compressor combo. The box is exactly as I had it wired out to the compressor, which is the cable attached on the side. When I tore everything down to move from rental space to my home garage All I removed was the in leads, which I have in the cable and it is only 3 wires. I did remove yesterday from the bottom left of the box an 110 outlet I had wired into the bottom terminals. My problem is where do the black 1 and 2 wires go and where do I put the new wiring I bought for it, I got 3 wire, so I have the blk, red, white and bare wire. I know they go into the pposts at the top, but not sure which go where. I'm pretty sure I didn't touch post 3 but not sure. 1 and 2 are the red and black (correct), so where does the white go?!?!?!? I will look on the cover for a diagram, but don't recall seeing one.............................Bruce
Originally Posted by 69Vett
yes it will work, however unless he is running a old motor directly. It is not needed.
also the heater overloads are preset to a certain current, in this case for a 3 phase motor.
Any new compressor has protection built into the Compressor Motor,
I am guessing old box, new compressor ?
Last edited by corvetteload; Aug 6, 2009 at 05:37 AM.
Here is a new development if it helps.... I looked at an air compressor here at work, an IR, and the pressure switch is wired to the box and the motor is seperate wired to the box also. My setup isn't like that, all run through a little box on the side of the top of the tank area where I ranmy wires into for the comp. All single phase wiring diagrams I have found on line show the press switch and motor configuration, but like I said mine is not like that. I am hooking tonight the 2 leads into 1 and 2 and the white common to the ground, and run it to the breaker box and flick the switch and hope for the best!!!!!
Get someone you dont like to start it up and make sure your insurance is paid up, Good Luck,, electricity, so simple yet so complex, it shoulda been named "SIMPLEX" Peace,,,Moosie
WELL, I am officially a bigger dope than you guys already thought I was!!!!! I just looked at the compressor after moving everything away from it, and there is a cable coming out the back of the motor also. The cable coming out of the starter goes to the press. switch and the motor cable out the bottom of the box, The leads go into the top, I have it figured out now and will let you know when I rehook everything up and it is running (hopefully within the month) Thanks again to everyone...................Bruce