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I am thinking about lining the inside and underside of my 69 vert with Lizard Skin ceramic coating at 40 mil thickness per their website. Does anybody have any experience with Lizard Skin? How much do you think I need (it is a touch pricey at about $85 per gallon)? If I go 40-80 mils do you think it will work as well as say fat mat or the other mat type insulation.
I know everyone has a hook and they do as well, but I saw a demonstration (on JayLenoGarage and at a car show) where a griddle was coated with 40 mils of the ceramic coating. The griddle was turned allowed to heat to 350degrees, but a laser temp sensor put the coated section at just over 125.
Yep made it myself. Just finished my interior resto and put this stuff down first. It only cost me the price of the microspheres from some model airplane sight(wicks/wix i cant remember). I think it was $10 or so. I just mixed about 50/50 into rustoleum I had left over and used a roller and a brush. Seems like it does make a difference, and you can't beat the price compared to lizard skin. Just need to wear a mask and be careful while mixing the stuff.
I used it on my firewall and tunnel when doing my engine transplant. It did ALLOT to reduce the heat in the cabin. I wish I had put it on a little thicker over the heater box closest to the exhaust manifold, after some time the heat still accumulates in the heater duct. It took about a 1 gallon to do the firewall and tunnel on mine.
TopGunn,
Thanks for the reply. I am thinking of 2 gallons of ceramic and 2 gallons of the sound deadener. I want to do the tunnel, underside of the floor and the firewall, inside and out. They recommend 40 mil min.
75VetteHelp
I am a little afraid to mix my own up, in as much as the body is off right now, and if my home brew does not work, I will be screwed. Yeah it will cost me about $380 for 4 gallons. But that is a small price to pay compared to taking the body off again. Now don't get me wrong, I am as cheap as they come, and I will try to find the post that you guys were speaking of, it is just that I a little skiddish on mixing up a home brewed ceramic coating. Also, the Lizard Skin stuff is THICK it does not sound like what you are mixing up is as thick of a product. Also, they claim theirs is water based and somewhat non toxic????????
I’ve made and used the material detailed in the hotrodders link. I used latex roof coating from Home Depot ($25 for a 5 gallon bucket) and micro balloons from Wicks. It really works well and certainly cuts down on the heat coming through the floor and fire wall. The roof coating is pretty thick stuff; it will definitely yield the coating thickness that you want. Definitely wear breathing protection when handling the ceramic spheres. Forty bucks verses $380. Your choice.
I look at it this way – The collector car restoration business isn’t so big that it supports a lot of R & D into new materials and processes. Most of the stuff we use was originally developed for other industrial and/or commercial uses. Some clever folks see an opportunity to re-package this kind of stuff and sell it to guys that are used to spending big bucks on their hobby cars. Hey, I’m not criticizing them….I wish that I thought of it.
Lizard Skin is an example of this. So is Dynamat – great stuff, but so is Peel & Seal roof membrane…….virtually the same stuff @ 1/3 the price.
Last edited by CTVETTE78; Aug 7, 2009 at 03:35 PM.
Reason: spelling
Most important part of using the lizard skin for me was spending the money on their special gun which made all the difference in the world. I tried laying it down without their gun, and that was the worst mistake I could have made, runs every where, and lots of wasted material. Other than that I used two gallons of the insulation, and one of the sound deadener which is thicker, and was able to coat inside and out to half way up the firewall, as well as the inside of my heater box. On the bottom I coated the Lizard Skin with a topcoat of Bullet Proofs black epoxy. The firewall I put down enough coats of SlickSand to just smooth out the roughness of the lizard skin then blocked and coated with SPI epoxy, you could always just block the lizard skin, but i did not want to put any of that on the ground, so I used the SlickSand to help. Just make sure that you topcoat the Lizard Skin with something that has some elasticity or it will crack on you. Also if I remember correctly the deadener goes down first.Hope this helps you out.
ikwhite
Nice job, thanks for the pm also. I believe I am going to go with Hy-Tech Thermal Solutions products. I found it in a post that had a link above. It is less than half of the cost, and I believe it to be the exact same product. They have several, or you can just buy the ceramic and add it to any paint you want. I am thinking about the metal protectant. According to the website, it applies just as Lizard Skin. I am going to go with a Harbor Crap undercoating gun, unless I can find a similar gun at our local body shop supply.