68 327 , Carburetor help needed
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
68 327 , Carburetor help needed
I posted this on the Tech section but maybe someone over here can shed some light on my carb problem today.
My 68 coupe with small block has a stock Rochester that was completely restored and then tuned for me by Lars.
Ran fine all last year and this year until 2 weeks ago when I last filled the tank.
Had to get towed today as it runs for a mile and then stalls and sputters and dies. I let it sit for a few minutes and it runs fine again for another mile or so.
I think I have water in the carb bowl and when I drive it sloshes around and stalls out or I may have dirt and sediment by the needle and seat.
My question is , how do I get the water out of the carb without screwign up all the settings and adjustment Lars did for me that made it run perfect like a swiss watch until this happened?
Is there a filter on the side of the carb where the fuel line enters, other than the can type mounted on the front of the engine in the fuel line?
Thank you in advance,
Kurt
My 68 coupe with small block has a stock Rochester that was completely restored and then tuned for me by Lars.
Ran fine all last year and this year until 2 weeks ago when I last filled the tank.
Had to get towed today as it runs for a mile and then stalls and sputters and dies. I let it sit for a few minutes and it runs fine again for another mile or so.
I think I have water in the carb bowl and when I drive it sloshes around and stalls out or I may have dirt and sediment by the needle and seat.
My question is , how do I get the water out of the carb without screwign up all the settings and adjustment Lars did for me that made it run perfect like a swiss watch until this happened?
Is there a filter on the side of the carb where the fuel line enters, other than the can type mounted on the front of the engine in the fuel line?
Thank you in advance,
Kurt
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 4
From: Flower Mound TX.
I posted this on the Tech section but maybe someone over here can shed some light on my carb problem today.
My 68 coupe with small block has a stock Rochester that was completely restored and then tuned for me by Lars.
Ran fine all last year and this year until 2 weeks ago when I last filled the tank.
Had to get towed today as it runs for a mile and then stalls and sputters and dies. I let it sit for a few minutes and it runs fine again for another mile or so.
I think I have water in the carb bowl and when I drive it sloshes around and stalls out or I may have dirt and sediment by the needle and seat.
My question is , how do I get the water out of the carb without screwign up all the settings and adjustment Lars did for me that made it run perfect like a swiss watch until this happened?
Is there a filter on the side of the carb where the fuel line enters, other than the can type mounted on the front of the engine in the fuel line?
Thank you in advance,
Kurt
My 68 coupe with small block has a stock Rochester that was completely restored and then tuned for me by Lars.
Ran fine all last year and this year until 2 weeks ago when I last filled the tank.
Had to get towed today as it runs for a mile and then stalls and sputters and dies. I let it sit for a few minutes and it runs fine again for another mile or so.
I think I have water in the carb bowl and when I drive it sloshes around and stalls out or I may have dirt and sediment by the needle and seat.
My question is , how do I get the water out of the carb without screwign up all the settings and adjustment Lars did for me that made it run perfect like a swiss watch until this happened?
Is there a filter on the side of the carb where the fuel line enters, other than the can type mounted on the front of the engine in the fuel line?
Thank you in advance,
Kurt
The filter is # 56
Are running the stock ignition system? If not take a look at this thread. This guys car was doing some what the same thing. My car was also doing the same thing but I run a MSD ignition and it ended being the Box.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...yesterday.html
The fuel pump can be the problem too. But I would test it first before replacing. Start with the Fuel filter.
Last edited by in2fun; Aug 10, 2009 at 11:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
Thank you gentlemen
I will check the fuel filter for signs of water droplets and if I find any, I will give the HEET a try.
I assume it can be bought at NAPA or AutoZone
Kurt
I will check the fuel filter for signs of water droplets and if I find any, I will give the HEET a try.
I assume it can be bought at NAPA or AutoZone
Kurt
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
Yes, a short section of rubber line goes from the metal gas line on the frame to the inlet on the pump.
Same for the return line but that one is more direct.
The large rubber feed line seems to have a sharp bend in it that looks like it collapsed slightly. It was new less than 2 years ago when I finished the restoration.
Need to get the car up in the air to get better access to it from underneath
Kurt
Same for the return line but that one is more direct.
The large rubber feed line seems to have a sharp bend in it that looks like it collapsed slightly. It was new less than 2 years ago when I finished the restoration.
Need to get the car up in the air to get better access to it from underneath
Kurt
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I have had fuel pumps that, when beginning to go South on me, work intermittently for short periods.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
Easy Mike,
The molded "S" hose is for the fuel return line; it is smaller diameter.
The one that is kinked is the larger diameter feed line that goes from the frame to the pump.
My books only show the "S" hose for the return.
Kurt
The molded "S" hose is for the fuel return line; it is smaller diameter.
The one that is kinked is the larger diameter feed line that goes from the frame to the pump.
My books only show the "S" hose for the return.
Kurt
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: Streator Illinois
Yes, a short section of rubber line goes from the metal gas line on the frame to the inlet on the pump.
Same for the return line but that one is more direct.
The large rubber feed line seems to have a sharp bend in it that looks like it collapsed slightly. It was new less than 2 years ago when I finished the restoration.
Need to get the car up in the air to get better access to it from underneath
Kurt
Same for the return line but that one is more direct.
The large rubber feed line seems to have a sharp bend in it that looks like it collapsed slightly. It was new less than 2 years ago when I finished the restoration.
Need to get the car up in the air to get better access to it from underneath
Kurt
If you use gas dry, it is better to use isopropol alcohol rather than methyl alcohol since it is less corrosive and harmful.
Terry
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
It is fixed and running well.
The culprit was the rubber fuel feed line going from the metal fuel line attached to the frame, over to the fuel pump.
It had a kink in it and the rubber was starting to crack.
Replaced it with new style rubber fuel line $7.50per foot) that can handle the ethanol and looped it so as to eliminate possibily of kinking again. Took it out for a run and runs great, no bog, no hesitation. Glad it wasn't that carb or needle and seat inside the carb.
Thank you to all for your input.
Kurt
The culprit was the rubber fuel feed line going from the metal fuel line attached to the frame, over to the fuel pump.
It had a kink in it and the rubber was starting to crack.
Replaced it with new style rubber fuel line $7.50per foot) that can handle the ethanol and looped it so as to eliminate possibily of kinking again. Took it out for a run and runs great, no bog, no hesitation. Glad it wasn't that carb or needle and seat inside the carb.
Thank you to all for your input.
Kurt
