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I know it cannot be done with body on frame and body off is the way to go but I'm doing body mounts, the one side at a time way, so in the process could I raise the passenger side enough to get the lines on without cutting them? I've done the brake lines without too much cursing. Doing the lines makes the Trailing Arm job look like a snap .
Not real sure about the fuel line - but seems that it could be done with a minimum of blood and cursing. My question to you concerns replacing the body mounts 1 side at a time. I have the entire drive train and suspension removed; is it even possible to lift 1 side of the body? I don't want to go thru the blood/sweat/tears of removing the body bolts if I won't be able to lift the body off the frame to replace them.
Not real sure about the fuel line - but seems that it could be done with a minimum of blood and cursing. My question to you concerns replacing the body mounts 1 side at a time. I have the entire drive train and suspension removed; is it even possible to lift 1 side of the body? I don't want to go thru the blood/sweat/tears of removing the body bolts if I won't be able to lift the body off the frame to replace them.
Thanks
Yes, the one side at a time method is easy - I mean, once you get the bolts loose and off. It's been posted elsewhere - use a 2 x 6 with cut-outs made for the protusion on the side of the body. Keep the middle 2 bolts loose on the opposite side when you are raising the other side. You only have to raise the body a couple of inches to replace the mounts. But in so doing, you'll want to (probably) clean up and paint the frame where you can get at it. And I sincerely doubt the fuel line can be done without cursing. I know it was a super *itch to get the 2 clamp bolts off near the upright - but I finally gottem all off. Now , to get a new line on
What I was really worried about was not being able to lift the body on 1 side without lifting the frame off the jack stands. There is nothing attached to the frame.
I know it cannot be done with body on frame and body off is the way to go but I'm doing body mounts, the one side at a time way, so in the process could I raise the passenger side enough to get the lines on without cutting them? I've done the brake lines without too much cursing. Doing the lines makes the Trailing Arm job look like a snap .
I don't think that amount of lift will make a difference, unless you can also lift the chassis way off the ground. It is the bend at the kickup that is the real problem.
Bubba alert: I cut my new metal fuel line before and after the kickup, ran a short piece of fuel injection rubber hose between the two ends. Very easy and I'm pleased with the outcome.
I don't think that amount of lift will make a difference, unless you can also lift the chassis way off the ground. It is the bend at the kickup that is the real problem.
Bubba alert: I cut my new metal fuel line before and after the kickup, ran a short piece of fuel injection rubber hose between the two ends. Very easy and I'm pleased with the outcome.
Steve
Hey Steve, thanks for the reply
Well, I took off from work yesterday to do a coupla' projects, One was the fuel line that was slated for 1st after breakfast. It got diverted to last place after plugs and a brake bleed project on the wife's Cherokee. Finally got to the '69 about 4:00.
Here's how it went.
Lines pulled thru where #8 body mount goes - I took it off, body raised about 2"
Did the return line first - that was fairly easy. Just push in downward and pull it thru. It's pretty flexable. You have to straighten out that last little turn it makes so it can go thru the frame.
The main line posed a problem where it goes thru the frame. The line is "L" shaped at this point and you have to straighten out the "L" so you can push it downward thru the frame and in conjunction, pull it thru. I used the handle end of 3 lb hammer(which you can see on the floor in the 1st photo).
It's almost thru at this point
Time for a beer
Now to clean/paint the frame and then put the new lines in.
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