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From: Common courtesy and common sense are not common.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I've used this one from Harbour Freight. I store my car at a storage facility and I like the fact that I can take the "key" with me to slow someone from trying to start it.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by wills670
This is the switch I have on mine. It is a cole hersee quarter turn. I just used a short cable to the batt. and then removed the bolt from the regular negative cable and installed it on the other side. I routed the cable so there was no possibility of it coming in contact with the possitive side. It works very well just open up the compartment and a qurter turn and your ready to go.
I've used this one from Harbour Freight. I store my car at a storage facility and I like the fact that I can take the "key" with me to slow someone from trying to start it.
Same one I use also. I poked a hole into the center compartment from the batt. side, have the key end in the center, can reach it from seated position if I had to. Put an inline fuse between the two terminals to keep power to the clock and stereo (holds the memory stations) for when I kill it.
Right now I have one of the blade-type switches which works well enough, but with all of the audio stuff I have going to the battery the compartment is a bit unruly. I have my stereo HU and a 1000watt amp hooked directly to the battery (+ and -).
Many of these things have extreme amperage ratings (continuous and surge) and I have no idea what the ratings mean or what I should use. Also, I would like to use one of the stereo memory straps.
Here's mine. The kill switch can be cleverly hidden anywhere to be accessed from the drivers seat. This disconnects any & all drains from the batt & also acts as an anti theft when the switch is hidden. 100 amp rated http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchAll=Customs
I have one like this. I put it in the ground wire near where it attaches to the frame (on a 72). I can reach it from the driver's seat. I like the idea of it being on the outside of the car because, in case of fire it can be reached without opening anything.
Do you have any pictures of this mounted/installed? Please send any details you have on the actual wiring you used and how you secured the unit. I'm guessing you're breaking the ground?
Do you have any pictures of this mounted/installed? Please send any details you have on the actual wiring you used and how you secured the unit. I'm guessing you're breaking the ground?
Many thanks, Steve
I don't have the rear compartment unit,the P.O. have made a little wall(?)to separate battery and the subwoofer.
I have made two aluminum support to fix the battery switch.
I'm breaking the positive cable.
This is with the key in off position.
Easy to access
If the pictures aren't good let me know.
Giuseppe
Wirth blade disconnect. The extra wiring is for a subwoofer.
This is the best of all the disconnects. When you brake the connection no current passes. The other one I've found after awhile when it's unscrewed it has a tendency to sag and make a slight connect.
This is interesting timing. I just started up my '63 after sitting a while with the **** switch disconnected. The dome light went on when I opened the door. Even though I had made sure it was not doing so when I parked it, it must have sagged. The knife switch in my '72 never has that problem. It was cheaper too!
This is the best of all the disconnects. When you brake the connection no current passes. The other one I've found after awhile when it's unscrewed it has a tendency to sag and make a slight connect.
the blade connection is very good but as I said before with a very small mod the screw type IMO is just as good connection wise and it also gives you some anti-theft insurance by simply taking the **** with you.
( see pic above )
EDIT- here is a link showing pics of before and after using black plastic ties.
I have since used plastic bolts instead of the plastic ties by request of customers that think the ties look bubba. Both work fine. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...isconnect.html
Last edited by ...Roger...; Jul 8, 2010 at 05:31 PM.