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Battery Disconnect Switch

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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #21  
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When you disconnect the battery via switch, aren't you concerned that your stock CLOCK will stop working?

.
.
.
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... just jokin' around.

This is a good thread. I need to get one of those blade types.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 06:36 PM
  #22  
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I've used this one from Harbour Freight. I store my car at a storage facility and I like the fact that I can take the "key" with me to slow someone from trying to start it.


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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by G-Sting
When you disconnect the battery via switch, aren't you concerned that your stock CLOCK will stop working?

.
.
.
.



... just jokin' around.

This is a good thread. I need to get one of those blade types.


Only thing is that I've never seen a clock work long enough to drain the battery.

Just Messin!

Interesting thread. I haven't put much thought to a cut-off but it's on the list of "to get" now!!!!
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by wills670
This is the switch I have on mine. It is a cole hersee quarter turn. I just used a short cable to the batt. and then removed the bolt from the regular negative cable and installed it on the other side. I routed the cable so there was no possibility of it coming in contact with the possitive side. It works very well just open up the compartment and a qurter turn and your ready to go.

I have this one mounted between the seats.
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BobbyC3
I've used this one from Harbour Freight. I store my car at a storage facility and I like the fact that I can take the "key" with me to slow someone from trying to start it.



Same one I use also. I poked a hole into the center compartment from the batt. side, have the key end in the center, can reach it from seated position if I had to. Put an inline fuse between the two terminals to keep power to the clock and stereo (holds the memory stations) for when I kill it.
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 07:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 427basketcase
This is what I use, it works very well (after installing it, which can be challenging)
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...BS-SR&CTitle=&
I have a battery drain that I've never been able to find. I use the same disconnect. Works great.

Mike
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 08:36 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by onaqwst
buy 2 and put 1 one each side
Why?

The same amount of current can flow (zero) with one disconnected as with two.

John
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #28  
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Default More advice on Battery Disconnect

Folks,

I would like to resurrect this thread. Summit offers a variety of these gizmos and I want to make sure I get the right one.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...20switch&dds=1

Right now I have one of the blade-type switches which works well enough, but with all of the audio stuff I have going to the battery the compartment is a bit unruly. I have my stereo HU and a 1000watt amp hooked directly to the battery (+ and -).

Many of these things have extreme amperage ratings (continuous and surge) and I have no idea what the ratings mean or what I should use. Also, I would like to use one of the stereo memory straps.

Thoughts and/or advice?

Thanks, Steve
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #29  
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Here's mine. The kill switch can be cleverly hidden anywhere to be accessed from the drivers seat. This disconnects any & all drains from the batt & also acts as an anti theft when the switch is hidden. 100 amp rated
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchAll=Customs
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #30  
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Bend up some copper strap:



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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #31  
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I'm using this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-45748/

and it's a good antitefth
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #32  
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I used the Flaming River seteup:
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd66.htm
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #33  
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I have one like this. I put it in the ground wire near where it attaches to the frame (on a 72). I can reach it from the driver's seat. I like the idea of it being on the outside of the car because, in case of fire it can be reached without opening anything.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #34  
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The blade type switch works well and does not seem to have the problems some experience with the screw type disconnect switch.

The blade switch is available at Grempler's for about $30.

http://www.gemplers.com/product/G574...Battery-Switch
Attached Images  
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 08:14 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by pippo350
I'm using this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-45748/

and it's a good antitefth
Do you have any pictures of this mounted/installed? Please send any details you have on the actual wiring you used and how you secured the unit. I'm guessing you're breaking the ground?

Many thanks, Steve
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #36  
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Works perfectly with one little mod.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 12:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Wuttin
Do you have any pictures of this mounted/installed? Please send any details you have on the actual wiring you used and how you secured the unit. I'm guessing you're breaking the ground?

Many thanks, Steve
I don't have the rear compartment unit,the P.O. have made a little wall(?)to separate battery and the subwoofer.
I have made two aluminum support to fix the battery switch.

I'm breaking the positive cable.
This is with the key in off position.

Easy to access
If the pictures aren't good let me know.
Giuseppe
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 04:22 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by paul 74
Wirth blade disconnect. The extra wiring is for a subwoofer.

This is the best of all the disconnects. When you brake the connection no current passes. The other one I've found after awhile when it's unscrewed it has a tendency to sag and make a slight connect.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #39  
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This is interesting timing. I just started up my '63 after sitting a while with the **** switch disconnected. The dome light went on when I opened the door. Even though I had made sure it was not doing so when I parked it, it must have sagged. The knife switch in my '72 never has that problem. It was cheaper too!
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 05:24 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Brown78
This is the best of all the disconnects. When you brake the connection no current passes. The other one I've found after awhile when it's unscrewed it has a tendency to sag and make a slight connect.
the blade connection is very good but as I said before with a very small mod the screw type IMO is just as good connection wise and it also gives you some anti-theft insurance by simply taking the **** with you.
( see pic above )

EDIT- here is a link showing pics of before and after using black plastic ties.
I have since used plastic bolts instead of the plastic ties by request of customers that think the ties look bubba. Both work fine.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...isconnect.html

Last edited by ...Roger...; Jul 8, 2010 at 05:31 PM.
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