Not that I'm at the interior yet... but I ordered all the stuff for the 3 compartment doors. Even looking at the AIM... I'm a little lost.
I only know what a couple of the things do.. I'll note them first.
My own doors were vertually destroyed and what pics I took are of minimal help.
Aside from the 3 doors (plastic), 3 trim frames, and the surround frame, I got in a bag.....

3 Little machine screws with star washers
(they hold the latch/lock assemblies on the 3 doors)

24 Little black screws
(presumably to hold the 3 trims on the doors themselves)

3 machine screws about 1 1/8 with matching nuts.
(presumably to hold the pull loops to the doors)

Now for the rest ??

6 pop rivets (with "nail" inside)
6 flat washers that might go with pop-rivets?
9 phillips bevel headed trim screws about 3/4" and shiny
9 beveled washers (that may or may not be related to above)
5 little self-tapping hex head screws
3 Heax head scres same as above but not self-tapping

15 Aluminum rivets with big broad heads

3 Stickers - Jacking - tire pressure - posi warning

Can someone explain this all with ease or point me to a "how do it" web page??

-W

(who is keenly aware that I still need the 8 u-nuts and screws to mount finished door assembly into the car)

 

Some of those black philip head screws should be used to hold the three compartment lid frame down around the storage well edges. The pop rivets might be holding the piano hinge down, if you have a '68 model Corvette.

 

Nope.. the 24 screws are just enough to do the door trim @ 2 per side x 4 sides x 4 doors = 24 screws.

And looking at the car... the 6 pop rivets would hold the underbody metal strip that the frame screws to - so I don't think I'll need those.

Past that I'm still flapping...

-W

 

The 24 black #4x1/2 screws attach the frames to the doors. The 3 screws and washers do hold the lock retainers to the locks. The 3 screws and nuts hold the pull loops to the doors, but 68 shouldn't use them. 68's (except possibly, very late 68's as you never really know with 68's) didn't use the loops. 68 hinges had a spring in them that was supposed to pop the door up when the latch button was pushed. It didn't work very well so for 69 the springs were eliminated and the loops were added to help open the doors. The 9 beveled phillips and 9 washers mount the main frame to the car.

I'm not to sure about the rest of the hardware you have there, though. Of the 15 large head aluminum rivets you have, 6 are usually used to attach the hinges to the main frame (2 per hinge), but I don't know about the rest. The 8 hex head (5 self tapping and 3 machine) screws throw me. The hinges are held to the doors with hex head screws, but a total of 6 are needed, 2 per hinge. I can't think what the pop rivets are for either, but your probably right about the metal strip .

The jacking instructions, tire pressure and posi labels (if your car is equiped with posi), all get attached to the underside of the passenger side (jack compartment) door.

 

Now we're getting there.... to review via a narrative:

3 Little machine screws with star washers hold the latch/lock assemblies on the 3 doors.

3 machine screws about 1 1/8 with matching nuts hold the pull loops to the doors. The six flat washers probably go with these. I will not be using these as I got the aftermarket "pop-up" springs.

24 BLACK SCREWS hold the frames on the doors.

9 PHILLIPS and 9 BEVELED WASHERS hold the main frame in the car at the REAR of the main frame. These screw through the fiberglass into the metal strip that is held underbody by the 6 POP RIVETS. I can confirm there are 9 holes waiting to recieve them.

6 of the ALUMINUM RIVETS hold the hinge to the frame. Perfect!

8 HEX HEAD SCREWS should be all self tapping. The 2 bigger doors use 3 each to the hinge and the little one uses 2. (I base this on both the holes drilled in the hinge and pre-drilled into my PLASTIC replacement doors.)

Bases on one of my pics - the fiber doors used RIVETS through the door to the hinge as well. This would explain all but 1 of my extra rivets. I can't see how the little hex screws would hold well in the fiberboard anyway - the rivets make more sense.

The three 1968 stickers are going to be a "problem" on my replacement plastic door as it's divided into 4 quarters on the inside via the plastic reinforcement method. But with a SLIGHT trimming, I can get them where they belong.

Now I STILL need the 8 U-nuts with screws to hold the front and 2 sides of the main frame into the car. They were not in the kit. (sigh)

-W (getting there... and thanks a bunch...)

 

Sounds like your getting close.

I think that the other screws for the main frame are the same as the other phillips head ones, but maybe a little shorter. The U-nuts should be available from a local parts store or contact AVECO in Kentucky. AVECO sells automotive hardware, including U-nuts. They won't sell to you direct, but should be able to give you the name of someone local that handles their products. Their either a #8 or #10 thread size.

You may be right about 3 screws holding the hinge to the outer doors. I was going from memory (which isn't that good anymore). I have some old doors at the shop, both fiber and plastic. I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see. Chevrolet used both fiberboard and plastic doors in the 60's and early 70's. I think Chevy put the jack label right over the reinforcement ribs. GM wasn't to concerned with things being perfect.

 

Clams, you didn't mention if you have the three lock strikers, one for each door, or the foam seal for the battery compartment.

cc

 

The '68 AIM shows the installation of the door hinges, the surround panel, the doors, locks, loops, the hardware needed for those installations, and the placement of the stickers.

The AIM does not show how the three trim rings attach to the doors.

Check the archives of Corvette Fever for a How-To article on rebuilding/restoring the rear storage compartments.

 

I have the lock strikers but not the foam seal (yet).
And like I said, I'm short the 8 screws and U-nuts to hold the front and sides of the assembly into the car.

And yes Mike I saw the 2 pages in question. If you can make out what size the 8 screws are - let me know - I can't. I can say this much by my old ones - they are beveled to sit flush with the frame and flathead for the same reasons. They are about 1/2 to 3/4 long to take a guess.

-W

 

Clams,

I just did my 72 a month ago. What I couldnt re-use, I sourced at Ace Hardware.. One of the screws that hold the plastic frame around one of the doors stripped the hole, so I got a longer one at Ace.. Ace had about everything I needed. So if you are missing something, you might try them or HD...

Rob

 

PS... the plastic storage doors are HORRIFIC workmanship.

I gave them a new thread.

-W