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A unique bodyman's prep problem ! -- HeLp

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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 06:45 PM
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Default A unique bodyman's prep problem ! -- HeLp

I'm preparing a 69 coupe for paint. I noticed what appeared to be a splash of oil on the doors around the door handle. No problem I thought as I was de-waxing and cleaning the car as the first step. A day later I noticed the spots had returned. Come to find out the owner had liberally sprayed a lubricating or penetrating oil inside the door in the latch area. This lubricant is seeping through the fiberglass and comming through the paint on the exterior of the surface that I need to paint soon !!! What to do??
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Daleford
I'm preparing a 69 coupe for paint. I noticed what appeared to be a splash of oil on the doors around the door handle. No problem I thought as I was de-waxing and cleaning the car as the first step. A day later I noticed the spots had returned. Come to find out the owner had liberally sprayed a lubricating or penetrating oil inside the door in the latch area. This lubricant is seeping through the fiberglass and comming through the paint on the exterior of the surface that I need to paint soon !!! What to do??
The EXACT same thing happened to me (OK, I'll fess up, I did it, trying to remove the door lock cylinder retainer, with copious amounts of Liquid Wrench)

I soaked and soaked and soaked in degreaser (Simple Green among others), then I sanded and sanded and sanded. Then degreased some more!!! Finally it stopped seeping through. Really scared me. Anyway, I sealed, primered and painted. So far (6 months) no evidence of the paint lifting.

We'll see...

Rob
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Shoot it with primer to seal it and see if shows through in a day.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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put a heat lamp in front of it and bake it out
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Continue efforts with the wax and silicone remover. Strongly recommend you don't sand the area until all residue is removed. Sanding will provide grooves for the oil/lubricant/contaminate to remain on the surfaces.

Comparative to bleeding the brakes; don't give up, just continue with the wax and silicone remover over and over again until oil is completely removed. Any trace left behind is guaranteed to result in paint adherence issues.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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could he use a degreaser like brake clean? that stuff will make all oils just go away
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
could he use a degreaser like brake clean? that stuff will make all oils just go away
Yes, any degreaser is going to help. It can be applied to the outside as well as the inside of the panel. The concern is when spraying excessive amounts of degreaser on the panel that it runs down the panel and brings the contaminate further down the panel.

It is extremely important the the last cleaning efforts be the wax and silicone remover to completely clean the panel before sanding.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 10:03 PM
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Great ideas guys. Thanks a lot. I'll experiment.
I won't be painting the car till spring so time is on my side.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 11:06 PM
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Don't dilute the area any further with cleaners and solvents.
Since you have the time, make a small pouch over the area inside and out and use talcum powder, cornstarch or baby powder to absorb the impregnated oils. Leave overnite and may require multiple applications.
Only after that, you can use a strong dish detergent like Joy or Dawn and use multiple brushings and rinsings.
Then you can use alcohol, acetone, laquer thinner or even starter fluid to final clean and sand for a sealing primer.

As mentioned above, don't sand until the final steps.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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I had a similiar issue with mine before spraying and it kept coming back. I scrubbed, sanded, used thinner, etc. Its all painted now but only 6 months and no sunlight yet... so I have no real results.

But - I was warned the lacquer - especially acetone would not be good on the glue within the fiberglass. As we all know acetone is about the only thing that will get sticky resin off your hands
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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Default Well, that didn't work !!

I'm back with this old thread. Well, baby powder and all steps thereafter didn't work on these dooors. I removed the side glass and the owner took them home to experiment. He soaked the complete doors in a tub filled with a strong degreaser. Dried, heated and degreased. The oil spots still came back, but not as bad.
How about this? I set them up horizontal, heat them up, degrease and shoot with a 2 part primer. Or do I use a sealer? Will that seal the oil below and possibly work. Thanks for help.
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 08:41 AM
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As a LAST resort, you can grind out to paper thin, a little bigger than the area affected and reglass it.
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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just reglass it..... will be faster/easier/no worries
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 08:07 AM
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i have heard good things about this stuff from a boat repair guy.

http://microbes.wonderchem.com/

good price when your looking a the cost of a paint job.
Todd
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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I bled my brakes using silicone brake fluid. Keep in mind my body is bare fiberglass. It's amazing how this stuff ends up in spots you never touched. Anyhow...I was given a # of a paint specialist/rep and spoke to him. His advice on previous experiences he had was to use a mild dergreasing soap or detergent. He did say it will take a while to get out because you're only washing away the surface residue and it will resurface. It will take multiple washing and drying cycles before it is all drawn out. I washed it a couple of times and the water didn't bead like it had silicone on it. I will do it a few more times before I get the car primed and painted. Does this help?
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cargo247
i have heard good things about this stuff from a boat repair guy.

http://microbes.wonderchem.com/

good price when your looking a the cost of a paint job.
Todd
hehe...what if you get it on yourself, does it start working again?
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 02:31 PM
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In dispair, I tried one of our household products - K2R. This is a spot lifter intended for fabrics. It is a spray that has a solvent together with diatomaceous earth. The solvent id one used by dry-cleaners and initself will break down oils. The diatomaceous earth acts like the talcum/cornstarch and lifts/retains any oily residue. Spray it on, wait 5 minutes, duat it off and repeat. Let the area rest a couple of days and repeat the cycle. It works.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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A coat of epoxy primer over the entire skin should seal most ills. Clean and prep as stated in earlier posts. Use your regular primer over the epoxy before paint.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Daleford
I'm back with this old thread. Well, baby powder and all steps thereafter didn't work on these dooors. I removed the side glass and the owner took them home to experiment. He soaked the complete doors in a tub filled with a strong degreaser. Dried, heated and degreased. The oil spots still came back, but not as bad.
How about this? I set them up horizontal, heat them up, degrease and shoot with a 2 part primer. Or do I use a sealer? Will that seal the oil below and possibly work. Thanks for help.
anymore oil ?
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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Update. After getting these back from the owner I set them up, horizontal, smooth side up. I used a Dupont de-waxer and washed them twice. I let them sit in a warm place and................. things are looking a whole lot better! So much so, I am tempted to clean and shoot with epoxy primer as mentioned above.
However, I like the "oil eating" products talked about in this thread, none of which are avaliable here. I am searching my area for a comparable product
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