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Been a lurker here for years but finally took the plunge and bought my first 'vette, a 71 Coupe in need of some TLC.
been working through things sorting the various systems out. It took a bit of work to get to the point where I had one headlight popping up with either control valve (switch or override) but my check valve wasn't holding vacuum and i needed to rebuild one actuator. So i purchased from Zip. My new check valve does check in one direction (the old one didn't) BUT it only passes 9 in. to the can and 1 in. to the control side. My old one didn't check for crap but at least passed 15 in. to the can and about 6 in. to the control side. Now the actuator that used to work with the faulty check valve in place doesn't even work...
Can anyone tell me in their system what the vacuum level is before and after the check valve for both the can side and actuator side? Would like to know if this is normal before i complain to Zip.
My engine will do around 15Hg of vacuum before the check valve and it would drop to around 10 Hg from the big port and around 5 Hg from the smaller one, mine is a NOS original part, but I also tested a repro one and it did the same. 1 Hg seems like too little vacuum to be useful for just about anything, this check valve must be clogged or something.
My engine will do around 15Hg of vacuum before the check valve and it would drop to around 10 Hg from the big port and around 5 Hg from the smaller one, mine is a NOS original part, but I also tested a repro one and it did the same. 1 Hg seems like too little vacuum to be useful for just about anything, this check valve must be clogged or something.
Thanks that is what i figured. Anyone else can corroborate?
When doing this check you must block either the big port or the small , you can't leave one still attached to the car.
Small port or big port the vacuum should be the same just lower volume.
Sounds like you have system leaks,I doubt very seriously the check valve is your problem.
You said that it checks the vacuum in one direction. You mean it holds vacuum with no leaks? If it's in the correct direction, meaning no backflow towards the engine then that's all the valve does. How much vacuum your pump can suck in the other direction is not really relevant.
When doing this check you must block either the big port or the small , you can't leave one still attached to the car.
Small port or big port the vacuum should be the same just lower volume.
Sounds like you have system leaks,I doubt very seriously the check valve is your problem.
Thanks Roger I know you have to close one port, doing that. Vacuum gauge on line straight off engine, 15 in. Put check valve in place on that line, close one side off, check other side. Big port 9 in, small port 1 in. No other vacuum connections/changes made. Vacuum lines for distributor, PCV valve etc. hooked up at all times and i get good vaccum with old check valve, it just won't hold vacuum when car is turned off, which is why i was trying to replace it. As far as i can tell i've eliminated all possible sources of problem except new check valve?
Mike, Yes, by "check vacuum" i mean stop flow in one direction, only allow flow in the other direction--the purpose of a check valve as i learned it. Sorry if my post wasn't clear, i was never sucking with my gauge, just measuring what the engine gave me. I did suck and blow test on the check valve to make sure it performed it's primary duty of stopping flow in one direction; it does, although with more resistance in the correct flow direction than i would have thought normal...
Thanks all for comments. Anyone else can check their vacuum levels and post them up here?
Knowing how the valve is built inside I don't see how there could be a difference in vacuum between the small and large port,they are connected. I also don't get how you can have 15" on the single port side and only 9" on the 2 port side unless there is a leak BUT I have never actually tried that test that I can remember. So I guess I have to run off to the garage (and its COLD out there )to see if the rubber tension inside can change the readings side to side in a capped off situation.
Knowing how the valve is built inside I don't see how there could be a difference in vacuum between the small and large port,they are connected. I also don't get how you can have 15" on the single port side and only 9" on the 2 port side unless there is a leak BUT I have never actually tried that test that I can remember. So I guess I have to run off to the garage (and its COLD out there )to see if the rubber tension inside can change the readings side to side in a capped off situation.
Thanks for the image Roger and i owe you an apology, long story short it was vacuum leaks that popped up on both sides of the system after i had confirmed operation before changing the check valve. I was diagnosing with someone else and we were not communicating well exactly where we were clamping off.
THANKS for being insistent and for tolerating my mistake.