Hi, how can i prevent my radiator from over heat? i am using a flex fan mounted on the engine with a shroud but my radiator over heat very fast. if i start the car and leave the car idling for less than ten minute the car/radiator will over heat. how can i stop this problem and how can i provide more cooling air for my radiator.
There is a outlet/pipe underneath the radiator cap, what is that pipe/outlet for and where those it go or attach to.

Has anyone ever try to use this kind of fan system and how it install. pls check it out on ebay. link is below.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2X-12...Q5fAccessories

 

Check the radiator for leaks first. The same basic design has been used since 1966 big blocks. A leak could occur under one of the upper support brackets, blow off pressure when driving, and then the rubber cushion would seal it enough as it cooled to prevent finding a leak in the garage.

Saw several like this. I'm not sure if it was common or just that I was the lucky guy to see those that did.




Oops, realized you said it was sitting. It sounds like your clutch fan may not be working.



You should post a picture of the pipes you are talking about. It sounds like you are talking heater hose connections on the intake.

 

Sounds like bad thermostat.Cheap easy fix. Id start there. That hose is the overflow.I'd replace the rad.cap also.

 

When new, your 82 would have had an electric cooling fan mounted to the back (engine) side of the radiator, similar to what is shown in your link. It was controlled by a thermo switch in the right head. It was set to kick on/off at about 200 degrees, if I remember correctly. You would also have an 18 1/2", 5 blade (7 blades with the optional HD cooling) fan and a fan clutch, in addition to the electric fan. If the electric fan is missing, a former owner most have removed it. Replacing it would definately help your situation.

Check between the AC condensor and the front of the radiator, too. sometimes you can get a build up of leaves, a mouse nest or something else trapped in there that will effect the air flow through your radiator.

 

If it over heats after 10 minutes you have other problems. that system isn't going to make a difference. What do you mean by over heating. Does the temp rise above 200?

Or does coolant escape through that hose up by the cap? that hose is suppose to go to the overflow bucket? If this is what you are referring to its probably the cap.

Jim

 

First, I would check to make sure there is the appropriate amount of coolant in the system. If not, fill it, and try again. If there is enough coolant, take the thermostat out and boil it in a pot. If it opens, it is good, and you can put it back in the engine. If not, your thermostat is bad and you need a new one. I test the new thermostats before I put them in to make sure they are opening where I want them to.

If you have enough coolant, your thermostat is good, your shroud is in place, your electric fan is running, and you still overheat after idling for 10 minutes, then you have a "low flow" problem, meaning either your system is clogged in some way, or your pump isn't pumping enough coolant.

 

 

thanks for all the ideas. i will try them. i got this car with nothing inside the hood. i am in the process of restoring this car. The only thing that was in this was a 350 engine siting in it. the was not even bolted . they took everything and threw in a 350 small block. I am restoring the car from the bottom up. the car has a brand new thermostart, brand new radiator and brand new flex fan that runs all the time because it mounted on the water pump pulley.
When the car is siting and idling, all of a sudden i will see water coming out of the radiator from the radiator cap and the pipe underneath the cap.

 

A cap should not allow that to happen. What if you run it with out the cap on? Check the temp with a hand held device. Is it really over heating?

 

That's normal on any '73 and up Corvette. There should be a tube attached to the pipe fitting that leads to a plastic coolant recovery tank. The coolant will then be sucked back into the rad when the engine coolsd down.

What temp is the engine running at?

 

Based on what you have said you have replaced, then it could be air in the water pump.
It could be a bad water pump. But based on how fast it overheats, it could be a blown head gasket letting exhaust gas get into the radiaotr water.

 

The biggest challenge facing the C3's cooling system is a relative lack of airflow across the radiator surface. No amount of cooling components can overcome this.

It's easily overlooked and should always be your first diagnosis point when tracking down cooling issues in C3's.

There needs to be a complete seal from the radiator to the support core. There also needs to be a complete seal from the core support to the hood. Last but not least there are also rubber flaps that seal the air gaps in the frame reals.

Moving farther back, the A-Arms ahve another piece of rubber to further seal airflow in the engine bay.

Cooling begins when the front spoiler (often missing) forces air up across the radiator surface which must then flow through the radiator and out the side vents on your fenders.

Any air leaks that allow air to go around your radiator rapidly diminishes the effectiveness of any cooling upgrades you may perform.

A correctly sealed radiator , despite what many will tell you, is crucial even to cooling when idling or doing city driving. Without the proper seals, you fan will end up recirculating hot engine bay air across the radiator due to the underhood air flow.

I see many people chasing cooling problems the wrong way. In these cars proper airflow should always be adressed first because of it's unusual design. The biggest upgrade you can make for your new engine is to seal every little gap in front of that radiator to maximise it's heat dissipation.

 

ok thanks. i try checking the temp with a hand held meter and work on the sealing.

 

Is the rad full of H20/coolant ???, not just sitting with the engine off, but running. If you just replaced the T-stat and rad, just filling the rad is only half full, start the car with the cap off and continue adding fluid as the engine refills itself with all the fluid that leaked out during the install.

had a buddy that made this same mistake - filled rad, started car, had overheat probs. We opened the rad cap, shined flashlight down inside and it was 1/2 - 2/3 empty. We topped it off - PRESTO prob solved. the engine block holds ALOT of fluid.

hope you got new rad hoses too.

good luck

 

If it is overheating at idle, check your timing. Make sure it is advancing at idle.

 

yeah, everything so far on the car is new. I filled it up with coolant. but i will try your method.

 

i'm wondering if there is an air pocket in the system. I had that problem with mine after the last time the radiator was out. Just idling in the garage, the needle went straight towards the red in just a few minutes. The fix is to have the radiator fill opening the highest point in the system as you fill the system with the car running and the cap off. I did this by jacking up the passenger side front only of the car and it solved my problem.

 

or driving the front tires up on some ramps

 

Thanks for all the ideas. car is doing lot better

 

how to install the radiator cap corvette 82 which way does the arrow A.C. ??????