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I have a big block twin turbo. Before I started on mine I looked at maybe doing a rear mount setup but decided it might be easier having everything up front so I didnt have to mess with the oil system and also finding room to run an intake pipe back to the motor. Not much room and or ground clearance under these things. I was able to mount the turbos up high enough so they have good drainage back into the pan. The air filters took some thinking but they worked out good in the end. Here is a link to my photobucket page with some pics and vids.
That car is flat out bad *** right there.....Have you ever chasis dynoed it? what turbos and how much boost? By the way that thing is spinning in 3rd, I am guessing you have 600+ at the wheels...Prolly 750hp at the crank or so....either that or those are some old *** tires....
If you are running twins then T-3/T-4 hybirds are plenty for most builds.The pair I was running would support well over 1000 hp.
There is a certain WOW factor to running twins,not to mention the car seemed to have a power band like a two stroke dirt bike!My next build should look something like this.It still has a long way to go.
That car is flat out bad *** right there.....Have you ever chasis dynoed it? what turbos and how much boost? By the way that thing is spinning in 3rd, I am guessing you have 600+ at the wheels...Prolly 750hp at the crank or so....either that or those are some old *** tires....
I havent run it on a chassis dyno yet. The first year I had it going I was going to do it But blew the first 4 speed trans a week before I was to do it and the only dyno was 100 miles from me. Three years later and now there is one only 50 miles away and they are having a dyno day in May so I might get to that one. After blowing 2 old saggy-naws out pulling in third gear, I built a 4l80e and so far so good with it. The car is just a cruiser and not a drag car, its running 3.08 rear gears and cruises nicely at 80 down the freeway. It makes about 15 lbs boost and like Show says it comes in like a 2 stroke bike when it hits the pipe. I dont have big enough waste gates on it and even though they have 7 lb springs I cant get it to run under 11 lbs. It drives and idles nice and is controllable around town but if you floor it and count to 2 it will sure make the adrenalin flow.
I would love to see someone do a rear mount on a vette, if I wasnt working 2-3 jobs (stinkin economy) I would tear mine out and try one myself, just because I love tinkering.
T3 or T4 are both too small....hell I have a T3/T4 hybrid on my bike...1300cc...(435rwhp@29lbs)..... You are gonna need something like a GT40R or GT42R or even bigger....Could run a T76...... You will need something to support at least 600hp at a minimum. A GT42R is good for 650hp. Personally I would go with at least a T76 or bigger....If you can't make at least 650 crank HP with a turbo....its not even worth the hassle...Maybe a pair of GT35s would work well...quick spool and a pair should feed 1000hp...Thats if you can handle all of the fab/plumbing involved for twins...
Ofcourse all of this is assuming you have a built motor with all forged guts, studs etc....Also a max effort fuel system is a must.
Ok, so lets say that a guy is after a "moderate" amount of performance increase....using a motor that is not built to the hilt? My 383 stroker was built prior to my purchase, so I can not vouch for the components used. I can tell you that the motor is fresh, tight, and runs well. I am looking for a noticeable boost in performance, but I don't want the car to be overkill either. I would guesstimate my HP to be in the 300 ballpark, and I would be thrilled with a turbo that could provide a 100hp gain. My ultimate goal is to get performance but not to a degree that I would need to worry about blowing up the motor. I simply want to use a turbo that would be adequate for my needs, with the idea that I could always add another turbo in conjunction with the first one....later down the road. I admit to being new to the whole turbo game, but from what I have seen so far, this would appear to be an achievable goal. Let's also say, for the sake of argument, that I were to use a T3/T4 hybrid as my turbo....isn't that "do-able" without burning up the turbo?? What would the end result be, performance and longevity wise?
Well basically, to make X amount of HP, you need X amount of air flow. The engine is just a big air pump that happens to combust the air it pulls in and then pumps the combusted gases out. So you have to use a turbo that is capable of supplying the amount of airflow needed for a given HP. Ofcourse there is thousands of variables in figuring out this equation. But in simple form... Yes you could use a T3/T4 turbo on a mild motor. Careful selection of the compressor A/R and wheel combos could probably make 500hp at the crank at peak boost. You will find out that as you increase boost, your HP per PSI efficiency goes down, not to mention heat greatly increases. You can only run so much boost for a given octane, once again, there is a ton of variables that can affect this.
I would advise you to starting studying up on turbocharging and all of it's intracasies. There is way more involved then just throwing a turbo on there...actually it's a huge under taking. I believe the limited space on a C3 is why there is no off the shelf style turbo kits available. The exhaust and intake plumbing would be a nightmare to fit in a c3.
If your heart is set on forced induction, you might ought to look into a centrifugal supercharger. Still pretty complicated but much more simple then a turbo and could easily get your 300rwhp 383" to 450+rwhp on pump gas.
Just be ready to spend epic dollars when you go forced induction. Buying the turbo/blower is the cheap part.... Research, research and research some more...
The exhaust and intake plumbing would be a nightmare to fit in a c3.
Just be ready to spend epic dollars when you go forced induction. Buying the turbo/blower is the cheap part.... Research, research and research some more...
I appreciate your candor on this. Yes, I admittedly have a LOT to learn about turbos, no denying that at all. That's where experience from more seasoned turbo installers come in to play. I'm sure someone out there could recommend a setup with AR ratios and such, that would fit the bill here. I realize research goes a long way, but if someone has already been through all of that, it's a lot easier to avoid pitfalls already made. No sense reinventing the light bulb!
So far as plumbing being a "nightmare".....I really would have to respectfully disagree IMO....at least for a rear mounted unit. 2 into 1 from the headers, a single pipe coming back into the turbo, your single exhaust out (no need for mufflers too), and a pipe to run forward up along the single exhaust pipe coming back...for the intake pipe. You don't have to cram all of the intake, exhaust, and turbo under the hood...just the single intake pipe. I would leave that in my muffler man's capable hands.
So I guess I need to find a turbocharger that will work for my specific application....and if anyone can offer technical figures to look for, I would certainly be appreciative. And thanks again, AJ, for your input....very much appreciated, and duly noted!
Here are the specs on the turbo that I am considering...
SUPER T3 T67 TURBO CHARGER .84ar TWIN SCROLL P-TRIM
Intake: 4 inch
Outlet: 2.5 inch
Compressor trim: .70 ar
Compressor Wheel diameter: 57.89 /72.95
Turbine Wheel diameter 54.47 /83.16
Exhaust Trim: .84 ar
Twin scroll turbine housing (quicker response then single exhaust outlet )
Turbine flange type: T3 flange
Down pipe flange type: 2.5 inch v band
Cooling type: oil cool only
Horsepower rating: 500HP
I appreciate your candor on this. Yes, I admittedly have a LOT to learn about turbos, no denying that at all. That's where experience from more seasoned turbo installers come in to play. I'm sure someone out there could recommend a setup with AR ratios and such, that would fit the bill here. I realize research goes a long way, but if someone has already been through all of that, it's a lot easier to avoid pitfalls already made. No sense reinventing the light bulb!
So far as plumbing being a "nightmare".....I really would have to respectfully disagree IMO....at least for a rear mounted unit. 2 into 1 from the headers, a single pipe coming back into the turbo, your single exhaust out (no need for mufflers too), and a pipe to run forward up along the single exhaust pipe coming back...for the intake pipe. You don't have to cram all of the intake, exhaust, and turbo under the hood...just the single intake pipe. I would leave that in my muffler man's capable hands.
So I guess I need to find a turbocharger that will work for my specific application....and if anyone can offer technical figures to look for, I would certainly be appreciative. And thanks again, AJ, for your input....very much appreciated, and duly noted!
Deja
You "could" do a rear mounted, non intercooled kit...still not a lot of room for piping down there but....you could. One thing to consider is the scavenging pump for the turbo. If you mount it in the rear, you will have to run some sort of oil scavenging pump. These are VERY problematic and when they go....THEY GO....you will be belching oil out both sides of the turbo. Ofcourse your fuel system and tune up is critical. Nothing will melt pistons and pop head gaskets faster then a turbo....They are great when the are running right but keeping them running 100% all the time is a hobby in its own. Make sure to get a turbo with an external wastegate, also make sure the wastegate port on the turbine housing is ported....that way you can accurately keep the boost DOWN.....you won't want more then 6-7lbs of boost non intercooled and a 10-1 compression 383. Boost creep is a killer....
I have been playing with turbo bikes for about 6 yrs....been through several kits, MANY pistons and head gaskets....its been fun but very expensive....Its a long learning curve....Just read up as much as you can and don't believe its as easy as it looks....if it were, everyone would be putting turbos on everything....
Here is my turbo toy....(to the tune of about $35k ....built/tuned/piloted by me....), runs 8.80s@167(14lbs) in the 1/4 and 225 mph(16lbs) in the standing mile(Texas Mile March 09)...it makes 300rwhp on pump gas at 14lbs and makes 435rwhp at 29lbs on C16....
Good luck on your build! Welcome to the madness...
what kit is this?? did you make it?? it looks like the one on ebay (not making fun it) just looks really clean.
This one never got finnished.(Thus the weird plumbing round the carb.)
I did have it up and running pretty good.I had intercoolers for it and another bov,ect.I bought it in pieces and planned it out,but never got to plumb it the way I wanted.I had several sets of headers and carb housings ect.I still have a few extra pieces that were never used on this one.None of it will go on the new engine.I did pick up pieces off of E-bay, craigslist,swap meets,and so on.I still buy pieces here and there if the quality and price is rite!I have a lot of sbc stuff for a carb set up.I have seen alot of "kits"on E-bay and they are far from complete.They will work,with work,but require much."You get what you pay for."
Things to consider that are a must to have right are the Air fuel ratio.Carb or efi mods
(You will need a wide band)
Boost control.wastgate 1 or 2,Bov,(Blow off valve)1or 2.
Boost gauges,turbo timer,and so on.
All must be sized and set to your application.
You will have to controll timing!A btm(Boost timing module)Is a must.
Efi will require ecm mods and programming /programmers ect that can cover some of this.
This is just off the top.
It's worth it,but it can get overwelming the first time round.
Things to consider that are a must to have right are the Air fuel ratio.Carb or efi mods
(You will need a wide band)
Boost control.wastgate 1 or 2,Bov,(Blow off valve)1or 2.
Boost gauges,turbo timer,and so on.
All must be sized and set to your application.
You will have to controll timing!A btm(Boost timing module)Is a must.
Efi will require ecm mods and programming /programmers ect that can cover some of this.
This is just off the top.
It's worth it,but it can get overwelming the first time round.
you seem to know alot about turbos. what do you think about the twin turbo kit on ebay. i think its like 1500 and says its 26pcs.? i want some kind of forced induction but i was also thinkn about a weiand 142 or 177 blower.
you seem to know alot about turbos. what do you think about the twin turbo kit on ebay. i think its like 1500 and says its 26pcs.? i want some kind of forced induction but i was also thinkn about a weiand 142 or 177 blower.
Did someone say weiand
Notice it doesnt stick out of the hood that much with the injecter scoop on,without the scoop on it will fit under hood. Also the easiest forced induction you can put on a car.
Last edited by Billysvette; Feb 16, 2010 at 08:08 PM.
Notice it doesnt stick out of the hood that much with the injecter scoop on,without the scoop on it will fit under hood. Also the easiest forced induction you can put on a car.
WoW!!! Quite stunning! What did that little piece of engine jewelry set you back??
Notice it doesnt stick out of the hood that much with the injecter scoop on,without the scoop on it will fit under hood. Also the easiest forced induction you can put on a car.
please info on your build. that is what i want. a blown 383.is that a 142 or 177? can you please give me specs on the motor. like heads cam headers.and why not side pipes? just curious
you seem to know alot about turbos. what do you think about the twin turbo kit on ebay. i think its like 1500 and says its 26pcs.? i want some kind of forced induction but i was also thinkn about a weiand 142 or 177 blower.
I have not looked lately at any of the kit's on e-bay,but most have knock-off turbo's and still require alot more than offered.If you are just lookin for a little boost then the blower might be the way to go.Turbo's require alot of research and knowlage of what they are doing to maintain them.Turbo's can be very reliable and last a long time in daily use if the are set up properly and have a good maintenance.Because they are very efficient at making boost and don't spool up and down directly with the engine they must be monitored closer,and require wastegates and popoffs to relieve extra boost/pressure.
Guys this setup would be cheaper,alot cheaper then a turbo setup you want.This is a 144 weiand blower with a 750 double pumper blower carb,383 with edelbrock victor jr heads,forged pistons ofcoarse,You dont have to use victor jr heads,theres alot of good ones out there.I have pypes exhaust system on,side pipes i just havent got there,dont know if i want them or not,maybe down the road.I bought everthing from summit racing.so you can check pricing from them .By far this is the easiest setup you can do.
Guys this setup would be cheaper,alot cheaper then a turbo setup you want.This is a 144 weiand blower with a 750 double pumper blower carb,383 with edelbrock victor jr heads,forged pistons ofcoarse,You dont have to use victor jr heads,theres alot of good ones out there.I have pypes exhaust system on,side pipes i just havent got there,dont know if i want them or not,maybe down the road.I bought everthing from summit racing.so you can check pricing from them .By far this is the easiest setup you can do.
+1
if you are already changing/modding your hood, the 142/177 blowers are the easiest forced induction setup for a vette. Configure your pulley combo to give you 6 psi at your redline, say 6000, you will gain about 80-100 crank hp and still be relatively safe if you have the right carb and razor sharp tuned timing/fuel curves. Plus they look cool as hell.
I have a CHP mag where they built a junk yard 350 with a decent cam and Vortec heads, the motor made right at 400hp at the crank. Then they slapped the blower on it and only had 5 psi boost at peak and the motor made 495hp. I don't recall if it was a 142 or 177. I know I would have pullies it up some to get the boost to
come in sooner to make
more tq, then build a blow off/waste port type system to limit the peak to 7-8psi.... That would be fun on the street and still cruise around like a stocker.