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Replacing rear body mounts

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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 06:13 AM
  #1  
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From: Torquay Devon
Default Replacing rear body mounts

Hi gents,

There are a few cracks on the rubbers on the rear body mounts. Son tried to take them off years ago but could'nt budge them.
My chilterns book tells me nothing.

If any of you guys have replaced them, would greatly appreciate any advice the best way to go to remove/replace.

Jamie
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 09:11 AM
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I replaced the entire set of mounts on a '79 that my wife used to own. I did the job about 15 years ago, and my memory is a little fuzzy about the ordeal, however on a C-3, which is now well over 20 years old, dealing with rusted bolts are going to be your biggest issue.

The bolt that is accessed through the "trap door" in the front of the rear tires will be the biggest PITA, because of the limited access. SOAK everything in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks before you start. Keep in mind that you don't want to replace just the rear most mount, as the body won't sit level when you're done, and secondly, you have to lift the body about 1/2-3/4" in order to get the old cushions out anyway. Therefore, you have to at minimum, loosen all of the bolts in order to raise the body, so figure on replacing all the cushions, if you're going through the hassle. I used Energy Suspension polyurethane cushions as replacements.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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From: Blythewood S.C.
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Hey Leadfoot, is that "trap door" accessable from underneath the rear fenderwell? I have a similar problem. Thanks
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:15 AM
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Aside from a slight visual blemish, why change the mounts? Cracked mounts make no difference in the serviceability of the car. Leave them for when you're doing a full restoration.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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Default C3 body mounts

If you do a search on the forum you'll find several who have done a very thorough write-up detailing everything necessary to do this job. I just completed it on my '73. In summary...
Soak everything in PBlaster or similar product.

For the #4 mount (very rear of car) you will most likely have trouble with the cage nut inside the car breaking free and spinning. If that happens, my suggestion is to cut the head off the bolt and pull the bolt out by the cage nut from inside the rear compartment.
For #3 mount, it is located just in front of the rear tire, behind the inspection cover. Open the inspection cover and hope the cage nut holds. If that cage nut breaks, you'll be forced to grind/cut the head of the bolt off. You will then need to lift the body sufficiently high to remove the remains of the bolt.
For #2 mount, they are behind the kick panels in the passenger compartment. Hopefully the heads are not destroyed by rust. Use a rachet/vise grips and get them out.
For #1 mount, you will access it underneath the car. Compared to the others, this one is very easy.
I agree with leadfoot4, if you must replace one, replace them all. While you're under the car, take the time to clean, prep and paint the frame, especially the mount locations/brackets. Even if it's only a cheap can of Rustoleum spray paint!
Good luck. PM me if you want more info.
David
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MGB
Hey Leadfoot, is that "trap door" accessable from underneath the rear fenderwell? I have a similar problem. Thanks
It appears that "woodster" answered your question. The "trap door" is visible from the "top side"...just look in the rear fenderwell, right in front of the rear tire.


I had issues with the "cage nuts" spinning also, due to the bolts being frozen to them. I was able to get at the "nut" through the gaps of the corner of the "cage", and drilled the nuts at their corners, such that they split apart.

Last edited by leadfoot4; Feb 27, 2010 at 02:26 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:18 AM
  #7  
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From: Torquay Devon
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thanks guys. I have degreased and it's had the prep for the POR . Replacing these bushes, does it make the ride firmer or better. 2 of the large rear bushes have their rubber in a sorry state.. I could be opening a can of worms to try and renew them.


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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #8  
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From: La Porte In
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Originally Posted by Woodsters
If you do a search on the forum you'll find several who have done a very thorough write-up detailing everything necessary to do this job. I just completed it on my '73. In summary...
Soak everything in PBlaster or similar product.

For the #4 mount (very rear of car) you will most likely have trouble with the cage nut inside the car breaking free and spinning. If that happens, my suggestion is to cut the head off the bolt and pull the bolt out by the cage nut from inside the rear compartment.
For #3 mount, it is located just in front of the rear tire, behind the inspection cover. Open the inspection cover and hope the cage nut holds. If that cage nut breaks, you'll be forced to grind/cut the head of the bolt off. You will then need to lift the body sufficiently high to remove the remains of the bolt.
For #2 mount, they are behind the kick panels in the passenger compartment. Hopefully the heads are not destroyed by rust. Use a rachet/vise grips and get them out.
For #1 mount, you will access it underneath the car. Compared to the others, this one is very easy.
I agree with leadfoot4, if you must replace one, replace them all. While you're under the car, take the time to clean, prep and paint the frame, especially the mount locations/brackets. Even if it's only a cheap can of Rustoleum spray paint!
Good luck. PM me if you want more info.
David
I have either the 4 or 8 bolt broken loose at carrriage. The hole from inside the car is to small to get anything through it. Can't even see in there. The bolt broke on the underside. After all this realized the cushions aren't that bad. so need to put a new bolt in. Or leave it because the cushion can't really fall out? Your opinion of what I should do?
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 10:32 AM
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From: La Porte In
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cant pull it out. Try to drill it out started hitting fiberglass. I am about ready to just leave it. I see no way to get the bolt out without making a large hole.
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